new vr4 owner. few questions with pix

my first vr4 and the guy i bought this car from, bought it like this so whoever the guy was before him, had no idea about cars.

i have some pix about the wiring in the bay that i need to figure out how it goes ect...u will see how jacked up it is in the pix /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

im guessing this is the MAF plug.

this positive cable setup cannot be how it came from factory? im going to have to wire that. Plus theres a blown 80amp, just making sure...its suppose to be an 80 right?

why is the manifold grounded? twice even?

and these two plugs near the 'grounds' have no apparent destination? one appears to go forward and i see the receiver...not sure why it doesnt reach just yet.

what is this? it was just dangling in the wind. appears to be some sort of ground, resistor of some sort?

and this?! who does this? hand twist wires together to mate a plug with nothing?? i have no idea where this is suppose to go yet neither.

and here appears to be a poor attempt at a coolant sensor wire job

this little guy is dangling around the windshield fluid container...

as u can see i need to dig into this a bit. the timing belt is a little loose. so i plan to pull the head off today and check the pistons and valves. ill prob order some arp studs this week and a head gasket. will find out more when i get the head off.

and info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[524of1000]

the only two I know of for sure is the 2 grounds - Yes, they belong there (although I don't know why they used such a large guage wire) and the metal bracket by the fan goes to the fan, something for the higher power setting. Sorry I couldn't be of more help at the moment, I've seen most of those disconnected wired before and alot of them are disconnected on mine as well. I would go in and rewire alot of the stuff there though, at least use butt connectors on them, make things a little safer.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

the two connectors by the master are (small square single) fuel pump test lead & (larger round, could be a double but only has one wire) ground connector used to set base timing. The metal box resister thing is just that the resister block for you fuel injectors & should be mounted near the middle of your fire wall.

Solder & heat shrink will be your friend to fix some of those connections, crimp connectors will still allow corrosion & that will raise resistance causing you ecu to read wrong. the one on top of the t-stat housing is to shut down the ac in the case of an overheat. not as critical as others.

I'll have to have a look at mine to shed light on some of the others you show in your pics.

 

thanks guys, that helps a lot.

i found a lot out there in a few hours..including a few wrenches chilling out haha (score!)

but i tried to get rotation w/o spark and just a click.

i checked all the fuses and seems good...HOWEVER. "ecs" is missing...along with some some slanted one...i believe its the iod ailmen?? haha. im going to do a search now and see if those actually have fuses/fusible links in those spots.

also, is there a pdf online manual for download on the vr4?

i also noticed one loose plug near the cabin fuse box, probably obd1 connector...idk yet. and one loose single plug near the ecu on the passenger side, probably another test port.

 

also, when i goto crank...theres just a click...and everything goes dead for like 5 minutes (even with a car hooked up with jumpers) ??

 

[twonineseven]

Check the ECU, you might need to replace the caps.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

chck your cables & grounds. a loose one will arc out & drop all power then come back whn the conection cools a bit.

 

what do you mean ecu caps? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[NickDromez]

this might help a little click i know you are right about the MAF, the 2 grounds are supposed to be there, and those 2 connectors near the grounds are related to emmisions (i think). thats all i got for now. good luck with that ghetto wiring the last owner did

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

On our ecus three capacitors (caps) are of a design that fails leaking the acid contained in the cap onto the ecu board where it then drains down to the drivers & damages traces on the board. Pull the ecu (Pass side above the kick panel) open it up & check for any signs of damage & a fishy like smell. The OE caps are black replaced ones may be a different color. check in the for sale section, there is a sticky post for a guy who does cap replacement & has pic's that will show better what I'm talking about. Terry posten is the board member who provides this service.

 

ohhh ok. cool, yea im going to go pull that ecu now...looks like a slight pain in the ass.

on another weird note, i tracked some single click noise to the mpi relay under the glove box, its probably suppose to do that upon start up...but then...i was pushing the body of some wires together and the relay was going NUTS clickin all over the place...im stumped because there was no bare wires around in that area.

bahhhhh time to crack open this nut shell.

 

update:

got car cranking now, but no fuel delivery(pulled fuel rail line)...off to test fuel pump

 

[steve]

Its really not a pain to pull the ECU. Pull it and check it out, it sounds like it could be your problem. If it isn't, it will be one day, so you'd might as well get it cleaned up.

 

ya ill get to that eventually, but now that ive got it turning over im at a new pass. and i put voltage in the test wire for the pump and got nothing so tomorrow im going to pick up a new pump and filter

 

[MitchooO]

If im not mistaken that resistor box is actually the one for the fan control of some kind, idk wat it does or how it works but it is all connected to the fan switch mounted in the radiator and the wires should go to the fan. and that little black 2 wire connector by the washer bottle looks like either the squirt motor or the factory boost controller

 

[toybreaker]

Cleaning up the floaters in the wiring will probably be the best place to start...

A few of the loose floater wires appear to heading over towards the t-stat area. Coolant temp is one of the mission critical signals the ecu needs to calculate an appropriate injector pulse and timing map.

You can use a speaker connector (from the doors or rear deck speaker) to make a permanent repair to that harness.

One of your first purchases should be a logger.

Plugging a logger in and reading some data will save you countless hours of "guesswork".

Good luck with the project!

 

Speaking of that fan resister pack, does anyone know where one can purchase them new? The dealer says its obsolete.

 

[524of1000]

Try JNZ

 

[jepherz]

If a regular dealer can't get them, JNZ can't either. I'm guessing you probably will just have to get a used one. Maybe newer Mitsubishi's use the same idea?

 

Yeah I was thinking newer Mitsus may have them. Something liek that coudl be purchased at NAPA? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif