Disrupter
Active member
Quoting marvinmadman:
All pics are now visible
Thanks!
All pics are now visible
Thanks!
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Disrupter
Active member
Quoting ApexHunter:
Looks fun. I'm looking forward to having a good workspace in the future to tackle a project like this...
Nice 3kgt, love the pic with the MIB flying saucers, haha.
Yeah I know the feeling, I had a 92 laser rs awd with no where to keep it. original owner car, low mileage.... Had to sell it because of no space, time, and money. Thanks, My friend took that years ago... its a bit hurt now cosmetically. Will be getting her looking pretty again, and upping performance from 420awhp to the 550awhp range.
Looks fun. I'm looking forward to having a good workspace in the future to tackle a project like this...
Nice 3kgt, love the pic with the MIB flying saucers, haha.
Yeah I know the feeling, I had a 92 laser rs awd with no where to keep it. original owner car, low mileage.... Had to sell it because of no space, time, and money. Thanks, My friend took that years ago... its a bit hurt now cosmetically. Will be getting her looking pretty again, and upping performance from 420awhp to the 550awhp range.
Disrupter
Active member
Quoting turbofonz:
I would just send the ECU out to ECMtuning and have them look at it. They're really the best with them, and have them socket it too for when you get ECMlink installed.
Stiff shifter, I can almost guarantee it's the shift lever on the trans. Take off the 2 12mm bolts and it'll come off. The bushing likes to get nasty and make it hard to move. Make sure you don't drop the plastic spacer that goes between the other arm.
Thanks, I contacted ECM and will likely be sending it to them. I will look at the shifter and will most likely swap out all bushings if thats the case.
I would just send the ECU out to ECMtuning and have them look at it. They're really the best with them, and have them socket it too for when you get ECMlink installed.
Stiff shifter, I can almost guarantee it's the shift lever on the trans. Take off the 2 12mm bolts and it'll come off. The bushing likes to get nasty and make it hard to move. Make sure you don't drop the plastic spacer that goes between the other arm.
Thanks, I contacted ECM and will likely be sending it to them. I will look at the shifter and will most likely swap out all bushings if thats the case.
turbofonz
Well-known member
I mean the shift arm on the actual trans, not the shifter itself. My bad.
Easy enough to test. Disconnect the shifter cables from the trans, and see if either the trans arms are binding, or if the shifter is. I've seen one cable cause shift binding issues, but many times the arm on the trans being the culprit.
Easy enough to test. Disconnect the shifter cables from the trans, and see if either the trans arms are binding, or if the shifter is. I've seen one cable cause shift binding issues, but many times the arm on the trans being the culprit.
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Disrupter
Active member
Thanks for clarification, only get to work on it on the weekend, will report back soon.
Disrupter
Active member
Didn't get to do much this weekend, but I think I found the problem.... Cant post in the classifieds just yet, but will be looking for a 1g eprom unit if anyone has one to help us along our budget build.
tektic
Well-known member
That's not even a turbo computer!
Disrupter
Active member
Quoting tektic:
That's not even a turbo computer!
I figured since he said he got a replacement ecu which was a red flag to me. I posted it on the first page but it reads MB128626, it's really faded but that's what it looks like.
That's not even a turbo computer!
I figured since he said he got a replacement ecu which was a red flag to me. I posted it on the first page but it reads MB128626, it's really faded but that's what it looks like.
thomcasey
Well-known member
Yea, no knock board, dead giveaway
Disrupter
Active member
Thanks guys you're awesome! Now to find a correct replacement and or upgrade to dsmlink at the same time.
Disrupter
Active member
Using the following link: click , I am learning which ecus are eprom/non-eprom with part numbers. Does it matter which car/transmission combination it came out of? i.e. a 1g awd turbo auto vs 1g awd turbo manual?
I also compared my photo to the one listed on the wiki and can see why the car wasn't running. Question is if the previous owner did install this ecu would the car run? would it run in limp mode?
Ok I found my answer doing a bit more research. Thank the lord for the search button.
I also compared my photo to the one listed on the wiki and can see why the car wasn't running. Question is if the previous owner did install this ecu would the car run? would it run in limp mode?
Ok I found my answer doing a bit more research. Thank the lord for the search button.
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tektic
Well-known member
Yes. Auto dsm ecu is programed for smaller injectors. Your going to want any eprom ecu from 91-94 or a one of these if it doesen't have an eprom:
DSM 91-94 federal awd manual:
MD166262
MD193299
MD304484
click
I don't know the Galant ecu part numbers. Your better off with one of those if you can find it.
Edit:
Here's one: click
DSM 91-94 federal awd manual:
MD166262
MD193299
MD304484
click
I don't know the Galant ecu part numbers. Your better off with one of those if you can find it.
Edit:
Here's one: click
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Disrupter
Active member
Thanks I just saw that. Will likely get it from here pending a bit of info.
tektic
Well-known member
Unless your considering getting a stand alone or Evo 8 ecu swap, $100 with a zif socket is a good price. I am not endorsed by the seller in any way. The first two options may be in your best interests because I don't know anyone around here that will dyno tune one of these old ecus.
Disrupter
Active member
Ray Pampena, he used to have a badass Galant vr4 back in the day. He now messes with Muscle cars and Stealth/3000gt VR4. He can fix a lot of things, he is a Mitsu master tech and has been tuning piggyback, flashecu, aem for a long time and is very well trusted. He just closed his shop (in Ronkonkoma, but still in the area) and works for Toyota, but they are allowing him to bring in clients for repairs. He sold his old dyno but still has access to it. He has tuned my 3000gt vr4 a few times (tuning application changed over time) on the street and on his dyno. I asked what is old setup consisted of and it was evo3 16g, 550cc, supra pump, and safc.
tektic
Well-known member
I didn't know he closed. His old shop was a few blocks from my house. He did say he could tune dsm link.... I'm just running of an ostrich. Couldn't do anything with it.
Disrupter
Active member
Lol just for future reference. I need to get this project rolling
tektic
Well-known member
"safc"
this is crap
Ok so you need to get the project started... What your aim for the car? You mentioned track days. If it's a race car start stripping it down. Pull out everything that's no longer useful. Most guys here got rid of their a/c, abs, cruise, and 4ws on their street cars. Whats the power goal? If I was going full race I'd start with a main hoop and harness bar maybe shore up the front strut towers to the dash bar. I still might do that down the road. If anything on the engine is leaking pull it and do fresh gaskets through out. If the engine is stock there's a 99.99% chance the valve stem seals are leaking and will burn oil when you do get it started up. It would be nice to try to drive it before you get in to it to see how the trans shifts and stuff like that.
I didn't plan on full race so I started out by making sure any and all rust was properly dealt with removed or encapsulated. Make sure your fuel and brake lines are in good working order. I pulled my engine and both subframes and got the car as far off the ground as I could and went to town recoating every piece of metal every where because I lost my last 2 mitsubishis to rust. make sure the fuel tank is in good order inside and out.
this is crap
Ok so you need to get the project started... What your aim for the car? You mentioned track days. If it's a race car start stripping it down. Pull out everything that's no longer useful. Most guys here got rid of their a/c, abs, cruise, and 4ws on their street cars. Whats the power goal? If I was going full race I'd start with a main hoop and harness bar maybe shore up the front strut towers to the dash bar. I still might do that down the road. If anything on the engine is leaking pull it and do fresh gaskets through out. If the engine is stock there's a 99.99% chance the valve stem seals are leaking and will burn oil when you do get it started up. It would be nice to try to drive it before you get in to it to see how the trans shifts and stuff like that.
I didn't plan on full race so I started out by making sure any and all rust was properly dealt with removed or encapsulated. Make sure your fuel and brake lines are in good working order. I pulled my engine and both subframes and got the car as far off the ground as I could and went to town recoating every piece of metal every where because I lost my last 2 mitsubishis to rust. make sure the fuel tank is in good order inside and out.
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Disrupter
Active member
The car will strictly be a budget built race car. We pretty much stripped the interior will be going with 2 fixed back race seats, looking to build a cage for race harness as well (very interested on which route you go with and how you build it. Power range will be 3-400 depending on condition of the motor. Will focus on brakes and suspension. Thanks again for the input, just haven't had the time as of lately, but once the weather gets better we should be doing a lot.
