Myles
Well-known member
Does anyone have pics of where their bung is welded to their downpipe for the wide band o2 sensor? Thanks Ahead
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
Let me see your Bung (o2 that is)
- Thread starter Myles
- Start date
Terry Posten
Well-known member
I am using the stock location because my WB has a narrow band output. Wired that into my ECU and she runs like a top.
However, my downpipe has a bung in it, plugged of course. It is in the middle of the 90 bend going back.
Here is the most important thing.
You must have the O2 sensor located so that it is not straight "level" or upward pointing. It allows moisture to collect into the sensor when off and it kills it quick. It must have a downward pitch so that the sensor screen can drain.
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
However, my downpipe has a bung in it, plugged of course. It is in the middle of the 90 bend going back.
Here is the most important thing.
You must have the O2 sensor located so that it is not straight "level" or upward pointing. It allows moisture to collect into the sensor when off and it kills it quick. It must have a downward pitch so that the sensor screen can drain.
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
mine said 18-24" from the turbine exit, so it's right just ahead of the steering rack on the drivers side, relatively convenient location. I'll second what Terry is saying about the angle. Mine is at like 1:30-2pm if you're looking towards the back of the car.
CP
Well-known member
You can barely see it on the top of the DP in this photo, placed just ahead of the firewall at the 10-15* angle specified:
Last edited:
Myles
Well-known member
I'm not sure If the Uego lets you use the stock location. In that other newbs thread about my car I think steve said that the computer needs the stock o2 sensor. Does anyone know if the Uego can use the ecu like Terry is talking about?
Rausch
Well-known member
Quote:
Mine is at like 1:30-2pm
hmm...wonder why he didn't mount it in the am positions??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
everyone that i know of on a DSM is shortly after the bend in the down pipe, and all within about a foot of each other. a few guys have had them for quite some time with no failures, and in those 10-2 o'clock positions.(excluding 12 o'clock that is.)
Mine is at like 1:30-2pm
hmm...wonder why he didn't mount it in the am positions??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
everyone that i know of on a DSM is shortly after the bend in the down pipe, and all within about a foot of each other. a few guys have had them for quite some time with no failures, and in those 10-2 o'clock positions.(excluding 12 o'clock that is.)
stealthtt24
Well-known member
On a 4G63 powered colt, fwd car but still. AEM UEGO wideband
04DrBlur
Well-known member
I tried the UEGO in the factory location and could not get the car to idle. My bung is right in front of the steering rack as well and works great.
jepherz
Staff member
Quote:
I am using the stock location because my WB has a narrow band output. Wired that into my ECU and she runs like a top.
However, my downpipe has a bung in it, plugged of course. It is in the middle of the 90 bend going back.
Here is the most important thing.
You must have the O2 sensor located so that it is not straight "level" or upward pointing. It allows moisture to collect into the sensor when off and it kills it quick. It must have a downward pitch so that the sensor screen can drain.
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
You shouldn't put it anywhere between 3 and 9 oclock on the down side. Also, putting it in a bend isn't a good position.
I am using the stock location because my WB has a narrow band output. Wired that into my ECU and she runs like a top.
However, my downpipe has a bung in it, plugged of course. It is in the middle of the 90 bend going back.
Here is the most important thing.
You must have the O2 sensor located so that it is not straight "level" or upward pointing. It allows moisture to collect into the sensor when off and it kills it quick. It must have a downward pitch so that the sensor screen can drain.
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
You shouldn't put it anywhere between 3 and 9 oclock on the down side. Also, putting it in a bend isn't a good position.
jepherz
Staff member
Quote:
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
The heater in the wideband itself is enough to keep it at the perfect reading temperature. Otherwise people would have never been clipping them on their tailpipes.
From what I have read, it must be close enough to stay hot. It needs temps of around 750-800 deg to work correctly and the internal heater is not good enough to do the job completely. I would try and keep it within 1 liner foot of the O2 housing if you are not going to use the stock location.
Good luck.
The heater in the wideband itself is enough to keep it at the perfect reading temperature. Otherwise people would have never been clipping them on their tailpipes.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
My down pipe came loose (really loose) and my WB would go completely lean as soon as I let off the gas. The only thing I could think of for the reason that it was doing that was it was getting cold.
As soon as my dp was back on, everything was good.
As soon as my dp was back on, everything was good.
If it was loose at the O2 housing flange it's because when you let off the opening between the DP and the O2 housing will suck in air. The velocity of the air passing the gap will cause a vacuum, under boost it likely won't happen because there is so much pressure in the system. However even with no leaks mine will often go to full lean when I let off the throttle anyway because the ECU isn't injecting any fuel on coast down at times.
Last edited:
