JDM Headlights (wiring)

Personally, I would NOT hook it up with just 2 of the 3 terminals being used. The unused terminal is the common ground for the 2 filaments. What you are doing is running the two filaments in series, so you are only getting 1/2 the brightness you should.
I've been through this with several members, and using relays is the only right way to do it.

 

[blacksheep]

Quote:





nice grille /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[mistaVR4]

Jeff,

Couldn't I just run the unused terminal to a ground somewhere and keep the stock relay setup? It seems even more strange because those lights are pretty dam bright even with the stock wattage bulb I can't imagine them being any brighter unless I upgraded wattage? Also, If I were to ground the top terminal that would then cause the lowbeam to shut off when highbeams are turned on wouldn't it?

So you basically saying that using Justins method even with the stock wattage bulbs is better? why? As I said I don't really know a whole lot about electrical systems but I don't understand why this would be so wrong. Could you please explain in more detail to help me(us) understand a little better? I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[mistaVR4]

Quote:
Quote:





nice grille /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif



Not bad eh? Pricy, but more than worth it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

I'll move the thread after the conversation dies.

Mark

 

Quote:
Jeff,

Couldn't I just run the unused terminal to a ground somewhere and keep the stock relay setup? It seems even more strange because those lights are pretty dam bright even with the stock wattage bulb I can't imagine them being any brighter unless I upgraded wattage? Also, If I were to ground the top terminal that would then cause the low beam to shut off when high beams are turned on wouldn't it?

So you basically saying that using Justins method even with the stock wattage bulbs is better? why? As I said I don't really know a whole lot about electrical systems but I don't understand why this would be so wrong. Could you please explain in more detail to help me(us) understand a little better? I'd appreciate it.

Thanks



My way is better because the stock wires are of small gauge. Using my method, you can run big fat wires with little voltage drop. Also, you can buy new H4 and H3 connectors. If you get 4 H4 connectors you can use the h4 with the H3 bulbs. I got ones from Nokia that had heavy guage wire already. I've replaced my whole lighting system so if I wish, I can blind people with 100+ watt bulbs.

The H4 bulbs have 2 filaments in it. A high and a low. They share a common ground. So in your method of wiring, you could hook it up wrong and run both filaments at the same time. This will cause greater resistance and heat and will melt your connector. It happened to me! (power in => high filament => ground prong => low filament => out to ground)

If you test the H4 bulb, you can determine which prongs are high and low. I suggest making the brighter filament your low beamed the less bright filament your high beam. You'll get more use out of your low beams. And your high beams will be super bright regardless. I've tried it both ways and this seems to be the best.

My method is low beams when low is on only. Both high's on with high beams.


Also a note about the inner set of high beams, the stock operation is negatively switched. Which means both wires are positive when your highs are OFF. When you turn your highs on, one switched to ground which completes the circuit.

You should NOT take any shortcuts. This is a SAFETY mod! You should solder everything, and use liquid electrical tape to make water proof seals.

 

Quote:
Jeff,

Couldn't I just run the unused terminal to a ground somewhere and keep the stock relay setup? It seems even more strange because those lights are pretty dam bright even with the stock wattage bulb I can't imagine them being any brighter unless I upgraded wattage? Also, If I were to ground the top terminal that would then cause the lowbeam to shut off when highbeams are turned on wouldn't it?



If you connect the unused terminal to groud, you may complete another circuit. Which would turn both filaments on.

for example:
Say this is the connector
_ a

b | | c

suppose a is high, c is low, and b is ground
if you ran 12v to b and grounded c this would make only low light up.
if you then ground a alos, both low and high will be on.

What you want is b to be ground, and power for your high or your low to be sent to the correct prong.

As far as I know, from your diagram and what you have explained, only the low beams will be on for low, and only the inner high for high. This is how the stock lights operate *i think*. Someone with stock lights want to verify that for me?

 

If you do have dual H4 bulbs, it may be illegal to have both low's on (inner and outter) with low. But it could easily be hooked up using my method to do so. I could make a diagram for that if you want.


What I want my next mod to be is, lights off with car, on with car... no more leaving lights on with the car off...

 

Quote:
I've got JDM lights, however I know there are 3 different types. I've wired up 3 pairs in my buddies cars and all of them have worked fine just wiring the simple way like I have shown. I'm not very electronically inclined so I didn't really do any research, I just made sure I had power to power & ground to ground from the stock leads (using a multimeter of course). The way I have it shown will enable the high beams to light up while the low beams are still on (unlike stock). Is that how they work wired up like you have them shown? Also what is the benefit of having them wired up like you have them shown same as stock, different? Just curious.

EDIT: One other thing I noticed in your diagram is that you have an H4 and H3 bulb listed, I've never heard of any type of JDM headlight with an H3 bulb, as far as I know there are either dual H4's or an H4 and H1.



My JDM headlights also have small running lights in them also. About the size of a flashlight bulb. I didn't bother to hook those up. Maybe there are 4 kinds? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Romanova]

Quote:
Quote:
I've got JDM lights, however I know there are 3 different types. I've wired up 3 pairs in my buddies cars and all of them have worked fine just wiring the simple way like I have shown. I'm not very electronically inclined so I didn't really do any research, I just made sure I had power to power & ground to ground from the stock leads (using a multimeter of course). The way I have it shown will enable the high beams to light up while the low beams are still on (unlike stock). Is that how they work wired up like you have them shown? Also what is the benefit of having them wired up like you have them shown same as stock, different? Just curious.

EDIT: One other thing I noticed in your diagram is that you have an H4 and H3 bulb listed, I've never heard of any type of JDM headlight with an H3 bulb, as far as I know there are either dual H4's or an H4 and H1.




My JDM headlights also have small running lights in them also. About the size of a flashlight bulb. I didn't bother to hook those up. Maybe there are 4 kinds? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


Those are city lights. Wire them into your parking lights.

 

[mistaVR4]

Quote:
If you do have dual H4 bulbs, it may be illegal to have both low's on (inner and outter) with low. But it could easily be hooked up using my method to do so. I could make a diagram for that if you want.


What I want my next mod to be is, lights off with car, on with car... no more leaving lights on with the car off...




I don't have dual H4 lights, I have the H4/H1/city lights (small bulbs in lowbeam housing) that is one type. Second is H4/H1 without city lights, & third is H4/H4/city lights.

In the pic above it's my lowbeam with highbeam switched on. When the highbeam is off, it's just the outer lowbeams that are on (both don't light up with just lowbeams). When I switch my highbeams on the lowbeams remain the same brightness and obviously the highbeams are much brighter. I have had these on my car hooked up like this for about 5 months with no melting or bulb blowing problems (same with my buddies).

I might think about running higher wattage bulbs but these suckers are really bright (more than stock with the same power bulbs).

I think it would be great if you could post another diagram or two of some other configurations for all of us. I agree that larger gauge wire is a great option, due to resistance. But for those who do not feel like dealing with all that extra work and want to run stock wattage bulbs in there JDM lights can wire them like I did without any problems, maybe it's not the correct way to do it, but it only cost me the price of four H4 connectors some solder, and 20 minutes to install them.

Also, Those city lights look really cool, and like Tyler say's all you have to do is tap them into you corner marker light and they will light up when your parking lights are on.

Here's a pic with those on:

 

Quote:
Quote:
If you do have dual H4 bulbs, it may be illegal to have both low's on (inner and outter) with low. But it could easily be hooked up using my method to do so. I could make a diagram for that if you want.


What I want my next mod to be is, lights off with car, on with car... no more leaving lights on with the car off...




I don't have dual H4 lights, I have the H4/H1/city lights (small bulbs in lowbeam housing) that is one type. Second is H4/H1 without city lights, & third is H4/H4/city lights.

In the pic above it's my lowbeam with highbeam switched on. When the highbeam is off, it's just the outer lowbeams that are on (both don't light up with just lowbeams). When I switch my highbeams on the lowbeams remain the same brightness and obviously the highbeams are much brighter. I have had these on my car hooked up like this for about 5 months with no melting or bulb blowing problems (same with my buddies).

I might think about running higher wattage bulbs but these suckers are really bright (more than stock with the same power bulbs).

I think it would be great if you could post another diagram or two of some other configurations for all of us. I agree that larger gauge wire is a great option, due to resistance. But for those who do not feel like dealing with all that extra work and want to run stock wattage bulbs in there JDM lights can wire them like I did without any problems, maybe it's not the correct way to do it, but it only cost me the price of four H4 connectors some solder, and 20 minutes to install them.

Also, Those city lights look really cool, and like Tyler say's all you have to do is tap them into you corner marker light and they will light up when your parking lights are on.

Here's a pic with those on:




Maybe I have H1 and don't know, or the previous owner of the headlights put H3 bulbs in. I dunno.

Your likely not melting anything because you have only one of the filaments wired up.

There is no way that I know of that you can just wire it up any diffrent then you have it without the use of relays. I could make that diagram, if thats what you want. You have to use relays if you want fatter wire. If you use only 2 relays (both high's on one side on 1 relay), the common ground causes a problem. There ends up being a path from the outer low beam to the outer high to the inner high. Thats how i burnt up my connector. I could make a diagram with 4 relays, but that seems like a waste.

 

Hey, my lows stay on with the highs.Wired them in just like stock so it must be normal.
You can't have H3s in them.They have different connectors and mounts.
No need for extra relays if you stick with stock-like wiring and wattage.If you wire in the 3rd wire on the outer H4 or go high wattage bulbs then it would be a good idea.
The JDM lites definitely need re-aiming.