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Head work

Well Ive got 272 cams that I want to chuck into my vr4. Now I know I'm gonna be outta my league when it comes to installing them so I'm gonna leave it to the professionals and probably have to fork out a nice little sum in labor costs while I'm at it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif What else can I get done at the same time that would save me time and money in the long run? I was thinking maybe valve springs and retainers are they really needed tho? I'm not planning on going past 8000rpms but I did read somewhere (correct me if I'm wrong) that aftermarket valve springs can add some nice HP which I'm all for /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Heres what has been/will be done to my vr4 before the cams are installed and when tunings done.

Evo3 big16g turbo
Evo3 exhaust manifold (with external wastegate port)
38mm external wastegate
Evo4 510cc yellow top injectors (Will be going bigger)
Evo2 Air Flow Meter(MAF)
Custom intake pipe behind headlight
2.5inch intercooler piping
550x230x100 intercooler
Walbro 500hp fuel pump
Fuel pump rewired
Sard afpr
Adjustable camgears
Adjustable boost controller
Sheepdog bov
Big Bore exhaust 3" straight off turbo
K&N Pod filter
Custom chip
Apexi neo
Oil catch can

(Probably missed a thing or 2)

Thanks for ur responses
 
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BoostedAWD91

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i would have them go over the head and make sure everything is ok. You don't really have to replace the springs and retainers to install bigger cams but its recommended to so if u have the cash to do it, i definatly would. I would also replace the valve seals, have a valve job done so they seat correctly and you will be good to go
 

I have also heard that installing springs and retainers is highly recomended when installing larger cams due to the added strain of the higher lift and duration, even if you are not reving it very high. It sounds like a reasonable assertion.
 

Thanks guys. Would I really have to worry about getting valve seals and a valve job done? My engine was reconditioned about 25000kms ago so wouldn't they have covered this when the rebuild was done?
 

Quoting 1sicvr4:
Thanks guys. Would I really have to worry about getting valve seals and a valve job done? My engine was reconditioned about 25000kms ago so wouldn't they have covered this when the rebuild was done?



You probably wouldn't need a valve job, but valve stem seals are cheap and easy to replace while you have the head apart. May as well replace them while you're in there just as added insurance that they won't leak later. You know how it works, the one seal you don't replace is the one that will leak.
 

TylerAdamson

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Dec 26, 2007
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Location
Iowa City, Iowa
Buy this head and be done with it. All the work has already been done for you. Just clearance your pistons and you'll be all set.
 

Rausch

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Dec 21, 2004
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Cleveland, OH
I'd have the head gone over once, cleaned up, and new valve stem seals installed. Cheap insurance while you're in there, and if you opt for springs and retainers, should not be much more labor intensive.
 

TylerAdamson

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Iowa City, Iowa
Quoting mrnvit:
that head would work at close to $3000nzd + shipping + tax for him to get it.



Didn't realize he was located in New Zealand.
 

Thanks guys I'll have the head looked over (hopefully it will all be OK knowing my luck with my vr4 it probably wont be lol) and will be getting valve springs, retainers and new valve stem seals installed.

Mrnvit - Do you know where any places in NZ that sell retainers? I'm sorted for valve springs so just need the retainers now I'm assuming I would have to go somewhere like Kelford Cams? I was just gunna import myself a kit but not now since the NZ dollar has crapped itself against the US dollar /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
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Well Ive got cams, valve springs, retainers and a cosmetic headgasket. I'm looking at arp headstuds do I need them or are factory 1s ok?
 

Kenny_Kline

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Seekonk, MA
Assuming you have the head off... this is what I would do. You will NOT regret it.

At the minimum, you should do a valve job. The valve job includes cleaning, resurfacing, new seals, setting the valves, springs, locks, etc. installs the cams... basically head is 100% ready to bolt it and is new! If you have the cash, invest into your head. In this order, I would go with springs/retainers (single spring is fine), revised lifters, bronze valve guides, +1mm over sized valves.

Have the machine shop strip your head down and hot tank it. I would clean up the bowl area with a dremel to help flow around the seat/valve. That is the biggest restriction of the head. If your not familiar with porting your head, I would offer to do it for you.

You really should get a set of ARP head studs. Do not re-use your old head bolts. I would also use a mitsu 4layer MLS head gasket over the cometic one. I would also look into doing a timing belt job (water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt, tensioners, idler) or you can go with a balance shaft removal kit by using the AMS race style or stub shaft style. Either one really wont matter but I prefer the AMS race style. Makes more sense to run that one.
 

turbowop

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Is the head even off the car? If not, don't bother pulling it to install cams. It's an easy job that can even be done without removal of the timing belt if you know what you're doing.
 

14u2nV

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Agency/St. Joe, MO
Quoting Kenny_Kline:

At the minimum, you should do a valve job. The valve job includes cleaning, resurfacing, new seals, setting the valves, springs, locks, etc. installs the cams... basically head is 100% ready to bolt it and is new! If you have the cash, invest into your head. In this order, I would go with springs/retainers (single spring is fine), revised lifters, bronze valve guides, +1mm over sized valves.





-What is a typical cost of all of this?
 

Brianawd

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Apr 18, 2005
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Portland OR,
Quote:
Is the head even off the car? If not, don't bother pulling it to install cams. It's an easy job that can even be done without removal of the timing belt if you know what you're doing.



But Mark in order to do it the right way you have to pull the timing belt all the way off. If you don't and do it the easy way then your a hack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
 

Brianawd

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Quote:
I spent around $1500 on my head



I really hope they used lube before they fucked you in the ass for that price.
 

Kenny_Kline

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BC cams, BC springs/retainers, OS valves, supertech valve guides, new seals, revised lifters, new locks, and the machine work. Everything new. I actually paid the machine shop $350 for all the machine work

Do the math.

BTW: I do have extra lube for you when you do another ARP rod bolt job for your customers. Full price for half work.... if they only knew the truth
 
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Brianawd

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Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
Quote:
BC cams, BC springs/retainers, OS valves, supertech valve guides, new seals, revised lifters, new locks, and the machine work. Everything new. I actually paid the machine shop $350 for all the machine work

Do the math.

BTW: I do have extra lube for you when you do another ARP rod bolt job for your customers. Full price for half work.... if they only knew the truth



You just love to spend money. Keep throwing parts at your car and some day it will be fast /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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