Harness questions, wiring questions, killswitch, relocation

[Lofty]

Right, few quick questions.
I have a 90 engine, 90 harness, 90 coilpack, 90 PTU, everything, with a 91 Galant vr4. Can I convert it to a 90 ECU and engine bay harness like you can a 1g DSM or is it more work than its worth?
I'm mainly confused on all the extra stuff I have on the gvr4 wiring harness (all the relays and transistors near the pass side headlight)

Is it worth it? Will the cluster function?
My current cars harness is wired for TWO SAFCS..... cool.
I have all the stuff I need to make my car run if it was a 90, so can I do it?

Where did you guys mount your killswitch for your relocation? I just want some ideas.

Oh, and for the location, does anyone have a GVR4 diagram for what you did? I'm confused about the fuse box lines and alternator wiring, trying to get a clear shot of what terminal on BOTH fuse boxes (the 3 fuse block and the main block in the bay)

So many questions, I hope someone can help.

I tried searching, didn't find too much into specifics of what I needed, unless I'm using the search wrong.

Thank you guys!

--Scott

 

[broxma]

Check the library (Link in the top row of links). It should have diagrams for everything you need.

Those relays and boxes you mention are mostly for accessories and they aren't connected to the engine harness. The differences between the engine harness of a 90 and 91 is actually very slight. There are a few pins that need to be swapped for the ISC motor I know for sure. I believe the MAS reset switch is also different.

If we assume, and Maybe we can, that the 90 DSM wiring and the 90 Galant wiring would be the same, since the 91 DSM and Galant wiring are the same, go into the How-To section and hunt down my post on the Evo 8 ECU into a VR4. somewhere in there is a pinout of the DSM. That pin out is actually for a 90. Below it are changes between the 90 and 91-94.

/brox

 

[Lofty]

I got it, I'm just going to fix the wiring harness I have and buy the right things. Oh well.

I also drew out my battery relocation diagram incase anyone feels the need to use it.

Im just torn on where to mount my killswitch, i'd do it through the license plate but the trunk lid is part of that and I dont want my power wires moving with the trunk when I open it, I had it drilled through the tail light however I got a set of sexy mint 89 tails and I can't justify myself to drill through those, which sucks because my bumper support is REALLY rusty and if I take it off I feel it wont go back on properly... -__-

Anyways, if someone has some good killswitch spots that are easy let me know, but I don't think anything but a bumper or a tailight is really an option.

Thanks guys.

 

[broxma]

The starter doesn't need a fuse. Matter o' fact, putting one there might just continually blow the fuse. In addition, if you run the amps needed to turn over the starter through that kill switch, you'll likely kill it. Most kill switches aren't rated for that type of amperage, which is every amp the battery can give it.

Since you are effectively running two lines to the front of the car, you're better off consolidating the fuses and running a dedicated line for the starter. If you look at the factory wiring, you'll see the hot wire for the starter runs straight from the battery.

Also, why run a fuse block, in front of another fuse block? That factory block is nothing more than fuses. Just fuse those lines at the multi-fuse block and get rid of that. And what are the things between the battery and kill switch and the switch and the inline 150A fuse?

/brox

 

[turbowop]

Those are circuit breakers, Brox.

My kill switch wiring sure isn't that complicated. I didn't run any extra wires to or from the starter or alternator. I only have one circuit breaker at the battery in the trunk and one inline fuse in the engine bay before the alt wire enters the cabin to feed the battery. Been working great since '04. Kill switch exits the taillight.

 

[Lofty]

If you didn't run any extra wiring or any of that, how does your killswitch cut off power to the fuse box, as if you leave the stock wiring alone, even with the killswitch turned off the car will still run because the power from your alternator is powering the fusebox and THEN running back to the battery.

I'm not really trying to fuse the starter, but it's a power distribution block, so I don't have to run individual wires ALL the way back. A 175 ANL fuse in the dist block should be okay, as others have similar setups and it works out just fine.

The killswitch I have is 175 Amp Continuous Rating, so I don't see why you're saying it would fry the switch?

Turbowop, did you run a wire from the alt to the killswitch, or did you leave it as is?

How did you drill through your tail without cracking it? E-Tape? I tried on a junk tail and cracked it, yay. Any pictures, Mr. Wop?

 

[turbowop]

I ran two wires to the trunk. One is a 2awg feed from the battery in the trunk back to where it used to terminate on that 4-fuse block. Then I disconnected the two white alternator wires from the fuse block and extended them to the trunk using 4awg wire. I think I had to do a small loop as well from one fuse block to the other to make it all connect. I think that is how the starter was tied in. It works, and was tested a number of times by my local NHRA track during tech inspections before racing.

I don't remember having any issues cracking the taillight when I drilled through. I think I smoothed it all out with a Dremel when I was finished though. You can probably find pics somewhere or more info on the topic by searching my username if the threads aren't long gong. Otherwise I'll have to put something together when I get some more time. Headed out to drank some beer at the moment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/beer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Lofty]

Excellent. Thank you very much! Ill have to creep your threads now!

Thanks for everyone who read this too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif