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GVR4 ABS proportioning valve question?

GSTwithPSI

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Hey guys, so I decided I'm going to delete the ABS on the VR4. The only problem with this is the DSM prop valve has a much lower split point than the VR4, so I don't want to use it. I want to retain my VR4 prop valve since the VR4's have much more front brake bias. Is there a way I can just keep the VR4 ABS prop valve? Thanks.
 
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MX4

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Apr 9, 2001
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Isn't there a Galant specific non-ABS proportioning valve? Pretty sure I have seen a different part number for one.
 

donkeylips

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The non-ABS prop valve for the GGSX and (non-USDM) GVR4 is NLA and you are SOL
 

SSGdave

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I want to retain my VR4 prop valve since the VR4's have much more front brake bias. Is there a way I can just keep the VR4 ABS prop valve?



I would think you could. I was actually going to exparament with that once im home from this military deployment im on. (im sure someone has done it by now)
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif LOL give me something to do will im "reintegrating" for 90 days.
 

prove_it

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You can retain the factory valve if you block off the extra lines for the abs. It's not pretty, but will work. Why do you want to keep such a high front brake bias? You will brake more effectively with a lower split point.
 

LIV4PSI

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Why is the split so different when DSMs come with the same calipers? Due to the weight difference?
 

coyotes

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What's the best valve to use for big brakes, like Evo brembos? What if I ran evo brembos in back also?
 

LIV4PSI

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Coyotes, just making sure you know that Brembos in the rear means no e-brake or a custom one?
 
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coyotes

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Yeah I know. My friend is parting out an evolution 8 so its tempting. I may be grabbing the interior also
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting prove_it:
Why do you want to keep such a high front brake bias? You will brake more effectively with a lower split point.



I'm no engineer, but I was under the assumption the VR4 required more front brake bias for effective braking, hence the higher split point. I haven't made any modifications to the chassis, the vehicle's weight or the brake system, so how would I brake more effectively with a lower split point? Wouldn't the factory split point be the best for effective braking in my case?

If not, I'm all for swapping in a DSM prop valve. I just assumed a prop valve with a split point closest to that of the VR4 would be best?
 

89Patches

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Um you can't use a ABS proportioning valve when you delete the ABS. The valve it self lacks the two ports for the front brake lines (I just deleted mine)

Also if you want to run larger calipers it's better to run a proportioning valve with a lower split ratio.
 

Tommyd

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Fishkill, NY
Quote:
I'm no engineer, but I was under the assumption the VR4 required more front brake bias for effective braking, hence the higher split point. I haven't made any modifications to the chassis, the vehicle's weight or the brake system, so how would I brake more effectively with a lower split point? Wouldn't the factory split point be the best for effective braking in my case?

If not, I'm all for swapping in a DSM prop valve. I just assumed a prop valve with a split point closest to that of the VR4 would be best?



Typically with out abs, the fronts are prone to lock up much easier therefore preventing you from stopping as quickly. I was always taught that with out abs to reduce front bias and/or go with bigger brakes in the rear to help counter the effect. Then again, this is just what I've been told from old school racers. I do know from a physics stand point once you start modifying the suspension and making the front stiffer, less weight transfer will also make the fronts lock up faster.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting 89Patches:
Um you can't use a ABS proportioning valve when you delete the ABS. The valve it self lacks the two ports for the front brake lines (I just deleted mine)

Also if you want to run larger calipers it's better to run a proportioning valve with a lower split ratio.



Yes, I'm aware. I've done the swap before. I'm inquiring about possibly retaining the factory gvr4 valve if possible. Seems impossible, so I'm pretty sure that sums up this thread.

Quoting HoosierGvr4:
Typically with out abs, the fronts are prone to lock up much easier therefore preventing you from stopping as quickly. I was always taught that with out abs to reduce front bias and/or go with bigger brakes in the rear to help counter the effect. Then again, this is just what I've been told from old school racers. I do know from a physics stand point once you start modifying the suspension and making the front stiffer, less weight transfer will also make the fronts lock up faster.



I'm just gonna swap in the DSM valve. Thanks for the reply, well said.
 
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prove_it

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The biggest reason for having a higher split point on the GVR4, is simply that it's considered a family sedan. They limit rear brake pressure to avoid locking up the rear tires and causing an fishtail effect. More front brakes means easier to stop and the vehicle tracks straighter under hard braking, ABS or NON. The DSM is considered a sports car, so they went with more rear brake power.

Lower your split point and not only will the car stop a little quicker due to more friction being generated, but upon turn in the rear will turn better and you won't "push" the front as easily.
 
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