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(1) insert the pin in the hydraulic adjuster BEFORE you loosen the timing belt. If the tension was set correctly, it should slide in and then you can unbolt it. It'll save you the time of having to compress it.
(2) Terry and Curtis hit on it. No matter how bad you may line it up or think it's wrong. Turn it over by hand first....always. YOU cannot bend valves turning it by hand. However, your starter motor easily can. Hell, the starter can easily move your car up a trailer on it's own. But, turn it over and feel for the compression strokes for each cylinder. If it stops dead in it's tracks, recheck timing marks.
(3) If you remove the timing plate behind the crank sprocket, make sure you put it on the correct direction. It will go on either way but one way will put your timing marks off about 180 deg.
Guys, I am really grateful for all the info you've been giving me on this. I'm going to wait one more day to hear from Paul about a friend of his who might want the VR4, otherwise I will be replacing the belt and keeping the car. My only problem right now is she will have to sit for a few weeks until I can get to her. Can't do it this weekend. I have a wedding next weekend, and I'll be hunting for a few days the weekend after that. Then I will be going crazy to get my car fixed!
Here's what I want to ask: Do any of you NW guys want to come over to my place a month or so from now and help me do this right? Especially if one of you guys have those timing belt tools (if not, I'll buy the kit). I would love to have you guys over to work on this thing and put your expert eyes all over it anyway. I know cars. I just don't know this one yet. In return, I offer whatever brews suit you (or whatever other drink suits you) and all the pizza you can eat, not to mention my eternal gratitude. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif If Paul's friend doesn't buy her, will you guys help me out?
I found a whole timing belt kit from the Partsdinosaur here: click and it includes a timing belt from PCI Mechanical. Anyone have experience with these belts? They claim a "Highly Saturated Nitrile" composition. But the entire kit is a fantastic price. Does anyone here run one of these belts or should I stay away from this? Thanks much.
timing tensioner from parts dinosaur failed within 3,000 miles. I've seen it happen a couple times, had the put the stock hydraulic tensioner on a 3KGT VR4 not long ago because his cheapo tensioner failed on him, luckily 3kGT's are designed to not let the belt jump timing, about the closest call i've seen in a while. Don't skimp on the major sh*t.
Well crap, one guy says it's fantastic, the other guy says it's sh*t, but when talking about a 3KGT. Sounds like I better just take off the timing cover and see what parts I can look at, especially the tensioner, to see what the date stamp is on it and whether I need to replace it at all.
The tensioner can fail just by preloading improperly.
The Partsdinosaur tensioner is the exact same part that OEM sells. Same casting marks and all.
I used the full set except the belt for Kevin's old car and that was 4 years ago. The belt was an OEM unit because I had a new spare on the wall.
If the tensioner is fully extended, you have to put the unit in a vise and very slowly depress until you can slide a small pin ( I use a small Allen key) into the lock-down hole. I use the rubber coated jaw inserts to keep from marring the tip.
If you depress to quickly, you will kill it.
I am not saying that Josh's friend did something wrong, just that any part can be bad right out of the box, 30 days later, or 100,000 miles down the road.
Apparently someone who wants to stir sh*t up. Don't worry, after seeing and reading about the build on your own car (which I would damn near give my left nut to own....) I'll be trusting your advice on anything to do with these cars. Thanks, man.
That is funny as hell actually when you look at it in progression. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Not even 7am and I'm already havin a good laugh. Today's gonna be a good day! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif