got some dyno numbers!! Video added!

[KiNgMaRtY]

Ver very nice numbers indeed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Brianawd]

PM me on link. Name there is brianawd and send me a 3rd gear pull. One where you stab the throttle at 3k and when where you roll into it slow. Pull all the way to 8k

 

[Ben]

I will make more logs tongiht that aren't as long. I'll have some cruising to watch the afrs cycle up and down, then a few 3rd gear pulls.
1qkfwd and I have been talking throughout the day about the possibilty of a mechanical fuel flow issue. I don't know how to pm logs on the forum so I have to email them, unless someone knows how to send them through PM.

No time tonight and I'm tired. hopfully tomorrow night or Thursday. I kinda want to go go ahead and pull my head off thursday morning.

 

[Ben]

This evening I'll post pics of the hole in my piston. yyyeeesssssss

 

Uhhhh ohhh, that's no good. I was just going to ask you to post a street pull up.

 

[Ben]

I have a log from the night before i pulled my head. I just need email adresses to send the logs. I don't know how to PM them on the link forums.

 

[1qkfwd]

You still got mine right? Email that over. Post them pics also.

 

[Ben]

 

[1qkfwd]

Woah buddy thats alot of knock. If you dont mind I could try to post up a screen shot here of that last log.

 

[Ben]

I don't see any problem with that

 

[Galantvr41062]

detonation, you has it. I would add some fuel or run higher octane fuel, a little less timing.

~John

 

[Ben]

I bet there is a lot to learn from these pics, but I don't know what to look for. How can you tell my engine was detonating?
I was told that the black on either side of the cyls means my head lifted.
The one thing that stayed constant from my 1g gsx I had a while back is my head. It's the same head. different cams and springs, still stock valves though. I kept this head because it was ported and didn't want to buy another head. I shouldn't have used it I don't think. Look at the wear indicators in the pic. It's way past. It's been machined many many times. I'm wondering it the knock was due to higher compression. I had problems with my gsx knocking with little timing for the fuel. I know there a million other variables(like me not having a clue how to tune). I just had a keydiver chip in the gsx.

I need to talk to the machine shop here about what will be involved in either replacing that 1 piston, or getting some new wiseco HDs. I also want to resurface my block because I took a 3M buffing pad to clean the old gasket off. I'm sure that puts some deep scracthes in the surface. I don't press hard or hold it one spot look cause I know it takes metal off. 'v been told there is only one person in town that has the machine to get a head smooth enough for a metal head gasket. I'd rather just get a new head. Maybe from FFWD. If the cost gets too high to fix the bottom end, I'll just get a whole new engine from FFWD or talk to Abel about it. I dunno. How mny times do I spend money fixing this engine, just to learn an expensive lesson when it's too late? Or just pay for a complete from a place who does this all day everyday. I hope it doesn't come to that, cause it will be a looonnnggg while before I can afford it!! at I minimum, I'll get a new head and a piston. I really want a whole new set though so I can shoot for the 750-800 mark. Andrei didn't think these Ross pistons would last up there.
I want to change a little as possible with the head since I made that much power somewhat easy(I'm not going to pass 600 on e85 now just for saying that, lol) I want to keep my FP4Rs, maybe get some beehive springs, nothing major with the port job and stock sized valves.

click

 

[Galantvr41062]

In your first pic you can see the pistons were getting hot on both the intake and exhaust sides, This is 1 sign of detonation. In a good running motor with the right tune you will want one flame front to travel accross the piston in one direction, not having 2 or more flame fronts colliding and causing hot spots. So you want to see the intake side of this piston/chamber being "hot".

Another sign of detonation is the pitting of the head, the pistons are forged and will take a lot of abuse before showing signs of detonation, besides how the burn pattern looks.

And the blown out head gasket on both sides of the combustion chamber is a good sign of detonation, unless you are making a lot of power and lifting the head. What head bolts/studs did you use and what were they torqued to?

I would have done a cranking compression test before pulling the head, this would have given us a better idea as to what the compression was like.

When you pull the pistons take a good look at the top of piston above the compression ring, and look at the rings, pitting, scoring, sharp burs on the ring, are all signs of detonation.

What gas were you running and what was the A/F ratio?

~John

 

[Ben]

The pitting was already on the head. I have pics of the head surface before the install and the holes were already there. I think one of the holes was 1/2 in the combustion chamber, 1/2 in the sealing surface.

I put down 651 to the front wheels. I had a set of used arp head studs torqued to 85 ft/lbs with the arp lube on a head that was not machined for a metal head gasket. It has also milled too many times.

Compression when I got back home was 130-135 on all 4.

Fuel was e85. A/F ratio unknown. Andrei said it was really rich. He wasn't going to start leaning it out because my knock sensor was picking something up. I think he said in the mid to high 10s. He didn't even get a chance to actually tune it.

 

[1badgvr4]

Are you going to stick another piston in it? I would get the felpro permatorque HG and at that power level id do bramd new ARP L19's TQ'd to 105 lb/ft. Does your knock sensor still have the goo in it?

 

[Galantvr41062]

I missed the part were you have a hole in a piston, then that is for sure detonation, unless you had a hard object for threw the motor, bolt, nut, washer, etc. And if you install ARP head studs I recommend 100 ft/lbs with moly lube, 85ft/lbs is not enough torque if you want to make power.

~John

 

[Ben]

I will probably go back with L19S. Not sure if I will replace that piston or the whole set with wiseco HDs. My knock sensor I bought new from Mitsubishi for my last dsm. So it only has a few thousand miles on it, and it does still have the goo. I will clean the threads out before I reinstall it and will try and torque it to spec.

 

[Ben]

I realy appriciate the help guys!! thanks!

 

[1qkfwd]

The weisco/turbo tuff is a very strong combo for a street car. Call bill at maperformance he had a good deal on these pistions. He's is gonna get me a custom set of stroker HD's, upgraded wristpin, with a 10.5:1 ratio for $519 shipped.

Do you have pics of the plugs? From that last log you sent, 13 degrees of knock retard is way to much. Did you happen to do a compression test before you had the car at the dyno? I know that the wb that you are using, we had issues with on my buddies evo. It would read richer than it was suppose to. We came across someone that did a wideband shootout and they tested like 5-6 different widebands. I guess yours came in like last. It sucks that you have to replace engine parts so soon. I hope you get it up and running soon and get the bugs worked out.

 

[Galantvr41062]

Is the knock sensor mounted closer to the deck of the block? If so I would put it back in the factory mounting spot to make sure it works as intended. Moving the knock sensor around is fine if you have an AEM EMS or something and can calibrate it the sensor to normal engine noise, vs detonation.

L19 studs are the thing to have if you want to hold the head down.

~John