getting (close) to 400hp. what's next?

[turbofonz]

~2mph in trap speed back on my 16g. 116.5 to 118.5mph back when I was on pumpgas in like 09. 2 tenths quicker too.

FP race was the main change. I put a different throttle body on the car at the time (very minor boost leak fixed)... I'd attribute most of the change in mph due to the manifold. And actually the FP runs were on a much hotter day too. very similar tune. This was at the time when my car was very consistent tune wise, so only parts were helping, power wise.

Definitely not a scientific test, but the car picked up power for sure, and spool was also quicker. Same manifolds still on the car, zero issues, but check flatness any time it's off. It warped after some exhaust gasket issues.

edit - I don't think you still said o2 housing was on the car, but I had good luck with a very ported 2g o2 housing. I actually prefer it much more than the aftermarket ones because you don't have to dick with nuts and bolts... unless you have one that has mounted studs on it.

 

[EMX5636]

Maybe wop should add this...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[turbowop]

Naw. I'm only using methanol because I can't get E85 locally. It works. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks for the info, Fonz. That's pretty crazy you gained that much on just a 16g. I guess I'll have to try one out the next time they go on sale.

 

[prove_it]

I like the exhaust tone with the FP manifold. Gave my a car a little deeper tone. I thought it was in my head, but others have said the same.

 

[JNR]

Haven't ran my FP yet, but did have an EVOIII that was nicely ported/polished, although did some more to it (haven't ran it yet though)...The FP needed a *little* work to make it "perfect", but overall is a nice piece out of the box and is supposed to be pretty sturdy, as well...Plan to coat it though.

Anyhow, from what I understand, the FP is supposed to give you slighty quicker spool times, which would make sense when you start comparing the two. In addition, you can just tell the FP is a superior unit from a performance POV just by looking at it in comparison.

The nice thing about the oem unit though is the heat shield to keep it looking more of a sleeper or for smog, etc...it's not the best shield, but it works and especially if you put some alum. foil in between (sounds crude I know, but it does help).

I wouldn't want to cover up the FP with a shield though, as it's a nice looking piece, so a really good coating should suffice and still look nice.

 

[EMX5636]

Quoting turbowop:
Naw. I'm only using methanol because I can't get E85 locally. It works. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



I'm in the same boat. Maybe someday.


If you're against meth, you can still run up into the 25-28psi range on pump gas. Just keep the tune in the low 11's:1. I run usually 30psi without meth, 33-36 with it. That's also with 9:1 pistons. There is a lot more you can get out of the car with what you have. Injectors will be close at 28-30psi, but shouldn't max out.

 

[turbofonz]

I forgot that also, FP manifold gives the car a badass exhaust note also. It gets rid of the... trucklike tone DSM's usually have.

And Mark, the gains were surprising to say the least. I wouldn't of expected a 16g to be choked up that much.

 

[G]

EfiniX, with a 20g you should easily be at 400hp if you have all the mods to go with it. Is your motor built? Valves, pistons, etc...........? What's your c/r? I made 365hp on a b16g on 93oct w/ speed density. I also have the fp mani and it definitely seems to be an improvement over the 2g mani. I had mine port matched to the head for a little extra flow, though I didn't notice a different tone because of it.

 

[EfiniX]

Driveline is in great shape, although i would love to do a 5-bolt swap this summer and ditch the AWS. Last owner took great care of the rig. Poly bushings and new parts where needed all around.


Quoting prove_it:
You'll be fine with 25psi. That should give you the biggest jump towards the 400 mark. You can run any octane you want as long as you pull timing. 93 would be your minimum I'd recommend. You need all the timing to can get without knock. I'd bump up boost to 25 and get a solid tune done. Might be able to push up to 28, pending on how solid the engine is.

Also is your driveline in good shape? Bad or old U-joints can suck up power trying to make it to the wheels, maybe not much but still worth checking.

 

[EfiniX]

Custom downpipe with 2 o2 bungs. One with the standard narrowband o2 sensor and a plugged one that I'll install my wideband in.
Quoting prove_it:
Forgot to ask....

What do you have for an o2 housing?

 

[EfiniX]

Let's get the spreadsheet and see...

Hot tanked/overbored .5
95 Spec Pistons and rings
BS removal
full rebuild and all associated stuff
Greddy Kevlar timing belt
Fujitsubo Legalis R cat-back (thought it was full in a prior post)
Custom 2.5" downpipe
fast cat
Hallman manual boost controller
Walbro 255 fuel pump
K&N intake w/ MAF adaptor
2g ported manifold
20g turbo
HKS 264/264 cams
K-Sport coilovers
1000cc injectors
ETS Intercooler
DSMLink v3

The missing piece, the piece I'm installing when I get home for more then a week, is the Innovate Wideband. Wideband+DSMLink+tuning should = close to 400 from what I'm hearing.

Quoting G:
EfiniX, with a 20g you should easily be at 400hp if you have all the mods to go with it. Is your motor built? Valves, pistons, etc...........? What's your c/r? I made 365hp on a b16g on 93oct w/ speed density. I also have the fp mani and it definitely seems to be an improvement over the 2g mani. I had mine port matched to the head for a little extra flow, though I didn't notice a different tone because of it.

 

[prove_it]

Good luck! I really think you should hit 400 with that set-up. You should have plenty of injector for up to 30psi.

 

[EfiniX]

I'm thinking a FPR wouldn't be a bad idea, either. I hear the Aeromotive kits are pretty nice.

 

[prove_it]

I used a fuel lab black mini. Bought the fpr with the install kit through modern auto performance. Installed and has been working great for two years now. It's really small so the install is really clean.

And yes, you really should get a FPR.

 

[EfiniX]

EHPerformance made a really good case for it, and after owning an RX-7 TT that caught on fire because of a blown fuel pressure regulator, it's not a hard sell for me.

Side-question: Where's a good place to get braided fuel lines? I wouldn't mind running new lines from my Walbro up to the engine bay.

 

[EMX5636]

You can buy all the parts from JNZ tuning for fuel lines. It's usually assemble yourself. It's a PITA for the first couple till you get the hang of it. I've used Summit/Jegs stuff before and it works, but I have broken a few putting them together. I've been much happier putting together and looking at my Aeroquip stuff.

 

[turbofonz]

I personally wouldn't touch the FPR or fuel lines... Injectors and pump, that's it. Well... Removing the banjo fitting from fuel filter to fuel rail, replacing that line is a good restriction removal, but how needed, I don't know. I don't think you'd have an issue with your power goals.

I don't run an AFPR on either car, and have had a fuel lab AFPR sitting in my garage for over 2 years now.

 

[EfiniX]

So, stock fuel pulse regulator, lines, rail, etc... should be fine with my 255 Walbro and 1000cc injectors? My main concern with a 175,000mi.+ car is failures that could blow the motor, so I'm all for preventing things that can be prevented and replacing things that should be replaced.

However, I'm no expert with these cars.

 

[turbowop]

I don't run the times or put down the power that Fonz does, so I can't say that having an AFPR is better. I do like having one on my car though, as it seems it's easier to tune idle and cruise with linear fuel pressure.

 

[turbofonz]

It's up to you man. You can buy one, and know your fuel pressure is where it is. In my galant I run a 150lph pump and 660's and I do have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel filter. Fuel pressure is what it should be at. The car drives perfectly.

My Talon has 2 255's and 2150s, and on e85 the car drives great. Would a AFPR help anything out? It may?

Back when I had an Aeromotive on my car, I had to mess with the screw numerous times to get it right (and it would loosen) and the car developed an extended crank issue. This was years ago and I might have figured it all out but I took it off and honestly never looked back. Not trying to tell you what to do, or say this or that is better, but I have 2 cars that have no issues without one. If you want to spend the $200 for one, go for it. I had dealing with the lines and everything. And I like simple stuff. Do as you'd like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I personally think there's better ways to spend the money.

edit - fuel lines, assuming they're in good condition will be plenty for the power you want to make. Along with the fuel rail - it won't be a restriction. Like I said, the banjo bolt on the stock fuel filter is known to be the biggest restriction in the stock fuel system, getting rid of that may get you some more flow back, but once again, may not be needed.