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Front DS Axle Bracket Question

BoostedAWD91

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Today i found out that one of the bolts that hold the bracket on broke off in the block somehow /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Due to the location its gonna be very hard to get it drilled out and repaired with the engine in. How much strain is on that bracket, would one bolt keep that secure enough for awhile till i can try to get it fixed and another bolt in it.
 

iceman69510

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This has been done before. Get a 90* head drill.

I wouldn't trust it long with one, as being loose is what likely caused your bolt breakage in the first place.
 

Diego

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Don't drive it on one bolt... you will be jsb like me, that is EXACTLY how my oil pan got beat to sh*t. Now I am having bryan send me a cv shaft and those 2 bolts...
 

BoostedAWD91

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Ive been driving it for awhile now i guess with it like that and never even noticed it. I dont know how the bolt broke off cause the bracket never came loose. The one bolt thats in it still was still tight as can be when i found it so /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Barnes

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so don't take any chances. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Diego

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This is how my headache started... heard rattle from dp area.. check it... tight.

Go to change my oil and oil goes everywhere... those 2 bolts backed out on there own and where that bearing is... on the bracket ground up on the pan from driving it without the bolts... so now I have to get a new oil pan... I'm sure my cv is fine but getting a replacement non the less.
 

Diego

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And hit up mitsu dealer and fork 23.65 for just one bolt... ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

BoostedAWD91

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i have extra bolts, but depends if i have to drill it out or can get the broken bolt out. I might be pulling the engine if i cant jack the engine enough to drill it out straight
 

1941Galant

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Quoting Diego:
This is how my headache started... heard rattle from dp area.. check it... tight.

Go to change my oil and oil goes everywhere... those 2 bolts backed out on there own and where that bearing is... on the bracket ground up on the pan from driving it without the bolts... so now I have to get a new oil pan... I'm sure my cv is fine but getting a replacement non the less.



While you are at it, pick up a new drivers side axle seal too and replace that. When my intermediate shaft bolts backed out, the axle seal took a dump. It sucks you have to pull the t-case to do it, but it beats getting the car back together only to find out that you have a trans leak.
 

1941Galant

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Quoting BoostedAWD91:
i have extra bolts, but depends if i have to drill it out or can get the broken bolt out. I might be pulling the engine if i cant jack the engine enough to drill it out straight



The intermediate shaft carrier bearing bolts are special if I remember correctly, so it would probably be wise to get some from the dealer/jnz.
 

Diego

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Quoting 1941Galant:
Quoting Diego:
This is how my headache started... heard rattle from dp area.. check it... tight.

Go to change my oil and oil goes everywhere... those 2 bolts backed out on there own and where that bearing is... on the bracket ground up on the pan from driving it without the bolts... so now I have to get a new oil pan... I'm sure my cv is fine but getting a replacement non the less.



While you are at it, pick up a new drivers side axle seal too and replace that. When my intermediate shaft bolts backed out, the axle seal took a dump. It sucks you have to pull the t-case to do it, but it beats getting the car back together only to find out that you have a trans leak.





Did this... I bought 8 seals, just to have spares around.
 

iceman69510

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Quoting Diego:
And hit up mitsu dealer and fork 23.65 for just one bolt... ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif



You were robbed, because I have bought those before and they were nowhere near that much money.

They are special, with an unthreaded lead-in area at the end of the bolt, and a specially wide shoulder.
 

BoostedAWD91

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I can't believe I have to pull the engine to fix this damn thing. Nobody around here sells any angle drills and I'm not paying $100 to use it once
 

Use it and take it back then. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif You can't return the bit, but I see no problem with the drill.
 

BoostedAWD91

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just to clarify incase anyone is wondering, the oem bolts for this arent special bolts or extra strong. I figured they were but jnz clarified they arent anything special
 

BluFalcon

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Jan 20, 2002
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Wichita, KS
Iceman speaks the truth.

They may not be stronger, but they are unique to that particular application on the car. They have a non threaded pilot tip on the bolt, and are the correct length for use with the carrier bearing bracket. I'm of the old school anal retentive A&P mentality which says to use the SPECIFIED hardware, where specified by the applicable technical reference, or in the case, (R)TFM.

A few years ago, I had to spend a "lovely" New Years Day, underneath a 93 TSi/AWD, drilling one of these bolts out because the previous owner had installed J. Random Hardware Store Bolt in the carrier bearing bracket. Hey it fit, and it threaded in, right? Good to go!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif The bolt broke off in the block and I discovered that trying to drill it out while hung the hell over, is a sure fire way to discover new and interesting ways to hate life, and that it really would have been easier to just pull the damn motor out of the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Last edited:

iceman69510

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The shoulder portion is just as or even more important, as it keeps the bracket from being able to move when installed. With the side loading experience through the driveshaft, that is important. The shoulder is like the bolts used for the rear axle and propeller shaft that fit tightly to not allow slop when all that on-off rotational force is applied.

JNZ can call them what they want, but they way you stated is not really accurate.
 
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