The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

First Time Build from Maryland

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
where can i find part numbers for connecting rod cap nuts/bolts?! all of these walk through's and engine overhaul manuals reference them but no part numbers!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
just an update:

-replacement connecting rod cap nuts should be delivered to king mitsubishi (dealership) on monday

-lower end gasket kit, head studs, and timing belt should be here from the parts dinosaur (anyone use this guy) on monday too

- picking up some mitsubishi spec gasket sealer from king mitsubishi when i pickup the nuts, haha the nuts

AND THEN FINALLY PUTTING THIS ENGINE BACK TOGETHER!

then just need to find the part number and replace that single broken bolt from the front case, a couple exhaust manifold fasteners, all of the exhaust manifold to turbo studs (and not including the transfer case, clutch, flywheel and 16g im picking up from a friend an annapolis) and i'm done.

oh and
-a replacement volume knob on the lenox 7" touchscreen pop-up dvd player i'm installing ($5 from lenox! yay!)
- new front speakers (because the pioneer 3 ways i installed are too big and preventing the interior door panel from properly mounting onto the door, but the 2 others i have in the back fit perfect, im just going to bring the other 2 from the front into a pawn shop and exchange them for 2 speakers the proper size)
- new tweeters for the dash

- ******AND THE ONLY ELECTRIC INCONGRUITY MY OCD-SELF IS HAVING AN ISSUE WITH - AND PLEASE ANYBODY READING OR FOLLOWING THE BUILD PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN - THE ELECTRICAL MALE PLUG GOING INTO THE THROTTLE BODY (SH*T IT MAYBE THE THERMOSTAT I'M REALLY TIRED) IS GONE. IT'S ONLY TWO PINS SO THE PREVIOUS OWNER'S SETUP AS JUST THE TWO WIRES HOOKED UP TO ADAPTER FEMALE PIECES AND INDIVIDUALLY PLUGGED ONTO THE PINS COMING OUT OF THE THERMOSTAT/THROTTLE BODY. WILL POST CORRECTION TO THIS PROBLEM AND PICTURES TOMORROW. THANKS *******
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD


but here's this pic again. the broken bolt that was over torqued into the old block and the head snapped off and needs replacing
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
hey guys. found the bolt. i wasn't paying attention, that hold and the broken bolt are from the tensioner. dur.

over torqued a rod cap nut and stretched the rod cap bold. didn't want to do any work to engine internals, hence why i bought the small block assembled. SO...

instead of just sliding the rods out and having the studs replaced, i'm taking both blocks to a machine shop to have them bore out the new block and replace the internals with the internals that are in the old block. i'm also bringing them my cylinder head to have it inspected to find out just what exactly is in there
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
UPDATE!

- front passenger dogleg should be on its way from citymunky now, and the body exterior is complete!
- new block and old block are going to jackson auto machine of hanover to bore out new block and have old racing internals installed
- transfer case, 16g, clutch and flywheel are on hold in annapolis until i get up there with the money for them
- the remaining replacement bolts (from tensioner, transmission, engine mount, banjo bolt from oil line, etc) are being ordered from king mitsubishi of gaithersburg

hopefully that's all. then reassemble, tune, and i'm back on the road!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
NEVERMIND. citymunky is so cool he sold the dogleg to someone else after i paid for it and refunded my money. thanks, guy. if anyone knows where i can find a dogleg (front driver) is all i need for exterior to be mint condition. thanks
 

citymunky

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
1,761
Location
Chesapeake, VA
^ No problem
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
k guys, replacement dogleg found, paid for, and being shipped tomorrow.

here's some pictures of my only wiring problem. help?! the wires with the missing plug a plug are supposed to go into the top of the thermostat. and the plug you see is frayed and pretty much totally disconnected from the wires

img.php

img.php

img.php

(bottom of thermostat)

img.php
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
hey everybody. hope everyone's week is going well

got off early and made it up to the junkyard in mt. airy with a friend

almost made it through the whole yard before we found the only DSM in the lot, a 1990 or 1991 talon

of all the ganged parts there was a beautiful stock steering wheel and these guys:



no more thermostat plug dilemma!!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Hey All!

I'm painting my wheels bronze until i get to the suspension (after i finish the engine, and after i replace the rear diff)

I want some nice block lug nuts. Any recommendations?! What do you guys use?!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
No response, huh?

For anybody following the build; I'm not boring out my engine block anymore. Instead:

Ross Pistons/Rings
img.php


Eagle Rods with ARP Studs
img.php


Evo III 16g with mani and o2 housing (with a blown Big 16g and the old 14b on the floor)
img.php


The pistons and rods are being used with Clevtite bearings. My cylinder head internals have also been identified as BC 264 Cams, BC Valves, BC Springs, BC Retainers, Titanium Lifters and blue top stock Injectors.
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Update:

I was wrong. Previous Engine was bored. Dropped the new block off at Justice Racing Engines in Frederick yesterday to be bored out, honed, and assembled with the Ross pistons, eagle rods, and clevites. When I get it back it's all assembly.

My first engine assembly ever comes next...
 

nsin

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Messages
47
Location
monterey bay, ca.
Good stuff man. Keep up the good work, will be following this. I too want my gvr to look like above pic. Makes it look aggressive!
 

1793

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
78
Location
Mid-Atlantic
Quoting Number996:
yea...i'm doing this. but white



where can i get bolt on fairings like that?!



They don't exist. I would like to do the same thing in two-tone, but it will have to be done all in metal. I'm not too far from you either, we'll have to hit a GTG this summer. Keep up the good work on the progress. If it seems slow, it's because some people aren't on here everyday like some other forums.
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
GTG?

I'm trying to have my galant ready for AWDFest in Ocean City by June 9th

Got a call from the engine shop. The Ross pistons are bad? So I told them to hold off on the bore job and I'm bringing them the stock pistons that came in the newer block (which are supposed to have Nippon rings).

More updates when I have 'em

Thanks Guys!
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top