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First Time Build from Maryland

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
I'll check when I go home...but the bolts to the OFH, do they go to the block? maybe look there.

Until then, look at this article

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

this is for a balance shaft removal, and they do have pictures of prying the front case off. Also they remove the OFH before removing the front case.

Good luck!
 

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
Quoting Number996:
desant - that trick worked like a charm! thanks!

now i cant get the front case off haha. off to get that done now.

it's too nice out to not be outside working on the car



your welcome! good luck!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
i can't get this bi*ch off. i've tried everything and im about to take my hammer drill out of the work truck (i wont calm down and YES every bolt and fastener is loose they are just in place in the picture) but this has to be gasket sealer from hell or what they use to make sure parts don't fall off of a space shuttle...
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Messages
23
Location
Glen Burnie
Hey Buddy!

Just saying Hello from another MD-VR4'er. Not a lot of GVr4s Left, gotta stick together /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif lol
Good luck with the car, If you need help with anything just give me a buzz on here
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
thanks! i get paid tonight at midnight. then ordering the remaining gaskets etc. things i need to put everything back together. then picking up the clutch, t-case, flywheel, 16g on monday. hopefully back on the road in next couple weeks! woot!
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
hey guys!

just an update. been spending too much money going up to new york to play.

front case gasket is on the way
arp head studs are on the way

gotta go to advanced and pickup a new timing belt.

putting her back together this weekend (or as much as i have time for) and will post pictures then!

what i know i need are the transmission bolts, anybody got a link to part number for them?!

ALSO (and IMPORTANT):

i have to replace one of the bolts on the front case that came broken when i bought the car, will post pics of it tonight. but my friend was telling me that with a balance shaft delete, there's a screw hole that needs to be blocked up? i tried looking around the forums but only came across your typical balance shaft delete kit (which is already installed on me front case and i'm reusing the front case), does anybody know what he's talking about here?

and any key tips to putting a 4g63 back together? didn't take any notes but everything is dissembled in order and i have plenty of DIY's/videos to consult.
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
hey everybody!

pictures coming soon... i sat on my phone.

everything has been ordered and is on the way.

as well as a lower gasket kit, so as soon as front case gasket gets here i'm reassembling.

i have to be honest though i've been doing a lot of research and reading the max performance 4g63t book i bought, but it seems like putting this engine back together has to be meticulously perfect or there's going to be some sort of melt down. i'm doing everything by the book but i'm sooo not interested in doing this again (there's a g35 coupe with my name on it waiting for me to finish)

are there any GVR4 owners near gaithersburg maryland trying to help a brother out?
 

jmorri15

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
171
Location
Kemp, TX
i can help with everything but engine internals. ive taken the engine all the way down to a short block like 10 times.
 

Nate

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
944
Location
Worcester, Pa
Read the engine overhaul manual. Clean everything, then clean it again. Be sure you're using a torque wrench, and torque everything properly to spec. Once you start it, let it run for a few minutes, then change the oil and filter. Let it run for 20 minutes, then change the oil and filter again. Make sure you don't have any leaks, if so, fix them. Don't beat the piss out of it until you have at least a couple thousand miles on it. Don't put synthetic oil in until it has at least 5000 miles on it. Oh, and re-check head bolt torque after a few hundred miles. It's not rocket science, but make sure everything is clean, and take your time.
 

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
i just want to point out that I'm doing my first build for 995/1000 and your doing your first build for 996/2000....
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
thanks guys!

here's some pictures. i'm having trouble finding part numbers for specific bolts

the red arrow indicates the bolt that's broken in the old block, previous owner may have over tightened it and broke the head off it looks like.

my only major concern at this point is in the block. i purchased to block from a kid who builds 4g63's so it eased my mind i was buying it from someone who had 3 other blocks and misc. parts laying around. but after i bought it he text me saying he totally forgot to torque the bolts to the rod arms (i know my terminology here is wrong) and i should torque them down to 38lbs.

i did this but for a couple nuts right before i was expected the torque wrench to click, (and forgive me if this depiction doesn't make sense) the spinning almost softened up like a had stripped the threading. when this happened because they were tight i just moved on to torquing the next nut. should i just throw the engine together or further investigate, keep in mind i bought this rebuilt block i didn't do it myself. i would hate to put this engine back together then have internals on the block go bad...




clean and ready


this is what he text me telling to torque down to 38lbs. im just a space cadet right now with allergy meds in me. so when i went to torque them i think maybe 3 of them? never two on the same cylinder, would tighten up and right when it felt llike the torque wrench should click, it kinda just ever so softly gave way instead, hope that makes sense
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
hey guys!

im trying to go to advanced like right now but im having trouble finding out what part number those nuts are. are they the rod connecting nuts? turns out i stripped the threading in one of the nuts
 

Number996

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2012
Messages
143
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
ok so i think the nuts indicated in this picture are called the connecting rod cap nuts. and they're supposed to be torqued to 14.5lbs. i stripped a couple torque'ing them to 38lbs as directed from person i bought the block from (this doesn't inspire confidence in the block at all) so now i have to get all new ones. i'm having trouble identifying the size and threading of the nut. i believe its m8 x 1.0 or m8 x 1.25


 

dsmtalontsi95

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Messages
1,222
Location
Glenville, PA
I'm not sure what part number they are but look into arp rod bolts.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting Number996:
hope that's not the connecting rod nut, just looked it up and it's supposed to be 14.5lbs?







According to the factory service manual, the correct torque for the factory connecting rod hardware is 36 to 38 ft pounds.
 
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