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Evo suspension using OEM evo camber bolts

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I think GTLuke did this on his suspension upgrade. Has anyone else drilled the hubs to accept the OEM bolts? Pros or cons of it?

Also, anybody have all of the part numbers for the 4 bolts/washers/nuts?

Thanks!
 

JSchleim18

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
4,801
Location
Long Island, NY
I have the part numbers but they're at home. They didn't come with washers though. Just the 4 bolts and 4 nuts.
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
I seem to recall that the evo hubs don't have the same vertical alignment of the bolts that our hubs do. This is evidenced by peoples difficulty getting good camber settings even when using the smaller oem bolts and tipping the hubs as far as they'll go. If it were me I think I'd install with OEM bolts and tip it as far as possible for neg camber and then mark the hub. Then measure the camber value that your getting. Then remove everything and use those marks as a template for your base camber setting. Then adjust the centerline of your proposed holes to achieve whatever camber you actually want for a base value.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Hmm, I didn't notice any alignment issues when I glanced at them. Are you sure the the camber wasn't just changed by raising/lowering the ride height a bit?
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
I haven't done it on my car so I can't say for sure but looking at Ryan's car it seems like he barely gets 0* camber with the bolts tipped as far as possible.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Jeff drill the holes out for the larger bolts then you can mill the slots out wider on the struts so you can tilt as much as you want.
 

Armitage

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
I hated having larger bolt holes on the strut versus the wheel hub because high conering forces can cause the camber to change unexpectedly mid-turn even if you crank down on the bolt. I didn't want to drill out the hub for strength reasons (I snapped an unmodified hub at that location before in an impact with a curb). In the end I welded stock shims to the inside of the strut ears so the bolt hole size would match.
 
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