engine oil dipstick pops!

[JSchleim18]

Quoting ktmrider:
On another note ( sorry for highjack ), my dipstick began popping out after turning the boost up at a 1/4 mile event last week. First time it ever came out.
I was on about 18-19psi and thought I had torched the clutch ( synthetic oil burning on the mani smells much the same as fried clutch ). Cleaned up the surface oil, no more runs, turned the boost down to the usual 15psi, and drove her home with no issues. Checked the intake tract the following day, no excess oil in the tube nor in the turbo lines. Kept an eye on things, no change.
Replaced my tired 14b with a small 16g on Monday. Put about 50 miles on it then ran her thru the gears at full boil. Hit 18psi ( no change to MBC from old turbo ) with a little taper to 16psi. Checked everything at home, dipstick was out about an inch or just past the rubber seals. Pulled the intake tube, again no oil from the head vent.
Gosh I drone on.
Anywho, could my BOV be leaking above 15psi and reverse pressurizing my head and crankcase?!? I am on the the stock 1g, uncrushed, and recirculating. I do have a JDM intake that uses the stock route and has the oval opening for the 2g MAS. The recirc tube points directly at the EVAP and head vent tubes.
Again did not want to start another thread but apologize if I step on some toes. Any thoughts are appreciated.



Bumping the last part of this reply up because I have the same question. I have a brand new 1G dipstick, 2 catch can setup properly routed with a working PCV valve (OEM). I have a GReddy RS BOV and I heard that they can leak above 19 PSI. My car is at 20 PSI right now and my dipstick fully popped out. Could Mike's above question be true?

 

I have zip ties holding mine in because it pops. I bought a PCV valve but still have this problem so im keeping it zip tied. Im thinking about ordering a new dipstick from JNZ, hope this fixes the problem.

 

the dipstick is common on these cars. And just like stated above its too much crank case pressure.

My rebuilt motor with 1500 blew mine out at boost with dual catch cans non filtered.

Another member on here gave me some "heating and cooling duct tape" like whats used on air ducts! This sh*t is strong and held if great! Never poped out again....just the oil filer vibrated loose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting JSchleim18:
Bumping the last part of this reply up because I have the same question. I have a brand new 1G dipstick, 2 catch can setup properly routed with a working PCV valve (OEM). I have a GReddy RS BOV and I heard that they can leak above 19 PSI. My car is at 20 PSI right now and my dipstick fully popped out. Could Mike's above question be true?

Hey J, my problem ended up being the Framinator PCV valve. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Bought an OEM model, no dipstick problems since ( about 2000 miles so far ).

 

Quoting 9t1tsi:
the dipstick is common on these cars. And just like stated above its too much crank case pressure.

My rebuilt motor with 1500 blew mine out at boost with dual catch cans non filtered.

Another member on here gave me some "heating and cooling duct tape" like whats used on air ducts! This sh*t is strong and held if great! Never poped out again....just the oil filer vibrated loose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif



This was also with a brand new oem pcv

 

[mikus]

A new OEM PCV is a fine item to keep in the 'vr4 trunk kit' just in case

Actually just grabbed one last Friday, they're black? All my previous ones were straight brass no finish. Looks nicer, hoorah.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

If you guys are baller enough you can just get this baby

 

[mitsuturbo]

I clamped down a piece of rubber hose around the dipstick tube, just long enough so about 10mm sticks up past the metal tube. The rubber hose is pliable enough to let the dipstick sit all the way down on the tube, but not come out unless you pull on it pretty good. My dipstick didn't come out even when i had busted ring lands on all 4 pistons and a shitton of blowby.

PS: don't ever try running non turbo 9:1 pistons and a decent amount of boost

 

[thecman02]

I don't mean to bring this from the dead but I didn't feel like cluttering the forums with my crap. I have an engine with 185psi across the board on an engine build 1000 miles ago. I have a vented catch can with both barbs from the valve cover feeding it. I can fill up a catch can unusually quick and am confused. I figured a fresh engine with good compression numbers would have very little blow by causing crank case pressure. I want to figure out this problem before I switch over to expensive synthetic oils. I'm down a quart after 500 miles. I'd say a majority of it is coming out of the catch can. The engine its self has no leaks. No oil burning problems visually. My dipstick doesn't pop out because I have a brand new dipstick. The only thing I can think of that my help is mounting my catch can higher? Its bolted onto the cruise control mount. Any ideas?

 

Pcv? Fresh air inlet? The crankcase needs to breathe.

 

[thecman02]

The PCV was replaced with a straight through barb with both that and the fresh air inlet going to the vented catch can. It just doesn't seem like that much oil should be pushed into the catch can with the engine as healthy as it is.

 

[H05TYL]

Quoting mitsuturbo:

PS: don't ever try running non turbo 9:1 pistons and a decent amount of boost




nothing wrong with 9:1 compression as long as the ignition timing isn't too advanced and you have enough fuel.

plenty of Evo3's (which have 9:1 comp stock) running 300kW @ wheels on stock internals over here.

On the subject of dipstick popping I got a spring from a ball point pen, bent one end round the dipstick and made a loop at the other and hooked it onto the hook on the p/s shield that keeps the o2 sensor wire away from the exhaust manifold - never had a problem since (stock motor, well used but still going strong)

 

[Street Surgeon]

I'm not reading all of this mess, but do have a few suggestions!

1. Do this and simply hold the dipstick in place.

or

2. Do this and keep it from popping out.

It's important that you not only vent the crankcase pressure, but create a vacuum (why the line from the valve cover runs to the intake pipe/box) so that it seals and creates suction. Better ring seals etc. Anyways good luck.

 

[GIjoe]

^^wow, thats a clean engine bay, nice! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

 

+1
I like what you did with the coil pack.

 

[donkeylips]

After looking at the KV, their whole idea of operation is that the PCV valve can't keep boost pressure from the intake from building up in the crankcase. So the small KV is supposed to prevent airflow in that direction.
I understand that, but what is the larger KV supposed to do? It's supposed to be installed the same way between the intake and valve cover, but air will never be pushed into the crankcase from the intake pipe. The vacuum from the intake is allowed(as without the KV) and at idle no air is let in. Is it just to have the "AIRTIGHT" engine that they say you need? I don't understand the purpose of this.