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doing my first clutch replacement...ever

tacolibre

Active member
Joined
Dec 21, 2012
Messages
37
Location
Spokane Valley, WA
So i'm doing the first clutch that I have ever done besides a dirtbike and I have a few questions.

What I have:
91 gvr4 all stock as far as turbo injectors, boost, pressure. no air box and tubular exhaust manifold(unk. brand)

Long story short the car had multiple leaks that required the motor to be pulled and the tranny to be replaced. I have been recommended to use an OEM replacement clutch I'm going with a LUK from rockauto.com

In addition to the clutch I got a steal on a fidanza aluminum flywheel and I bought a replacement friction disk for it.

Considering these parts what do I need to do to the combo? any machining? if no machining check for step height?

loc tite on anything? anything else I am missing?

I do not have a manual so many of this I do not know. I scrolled the ENTIRE how to section and didn't see much /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
have it checked for the step height. use loc-tite on everything. at least i always do.

disconnect battery, remove intake pipe at turbo, drain fluid, remove down pipe, remove transfer case(leave it in the driveshaft just place it to the side on some cardboard), remove passenger side gusset plate from under car, remove axles, remove the starter(some people take the starter out completely, but i leave it attached to the harness and zip tie it back by the windshield washer bottle), disconnect the o2 sensor and all the plugs on the thermostat housing(zip tie these up and back by the firewall), support transmission with a jack, remove the 4 bolts in the passenger side wheel well that hold the transmission bracket, remove the top 2 bolts on the transmission that hold the bracket, remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the block(3 can be seen from the top of the engine bay and 1 is hidden in the back by the driver side axle input), slide the transmission off of the clutch and lower the jack. replace needed parts and reverse the removal procedure.
 

tektic

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
definitely have the flywheel surface checked that it was installed correctly and that its completely flat and even. Don't over tighten the pressure plate and use lock tight. clean and debur the input shaft and pipit ball and fork. grease everything
I just mentioned.

On a stock 1g with a boost controller fuel pump rewire and fuel cut removed, I was slipping an oem mitsubishi disk. So maybe a little tougher disk may be in order.
 

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
Yes, make sure that if someone surfaces it, you must tell them flat means flat! Some flywheels are cut with a slight taper, and they did that to one of mine. Good info at RRE . And while you're in there you might consider a fresh rear main seal, especially if you have some miles on the motor.
 

Chicago1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
77
Location
rio rancho nm
Don't install the disk backwards. People say you can't somehow I did and it was still easy to bolt down. Flat side goes towards the flywheel just fyi
 
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