FlyingEagle
Staff member
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Clutch fork position
- Thread starterGSTwithPSI
- Start date
presterone
Well-known member
I know the guy who bought bruces VR4 and had the flywheel shoot out, he hates galants now and begged me not to resurrect that one he once had.
FlyingEagle
Staff member
EMX5636
Well-known member
It's possible, but usually happens with too thick of a shim, or extended slave rods etc. With proper pedal adjustment, you will be fine.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
So new question; How can I tell of my clutch is putting unnecessary pressure on the crank thrust?
Current setup details:
- Rod on the clutch pedal to the clutch master is nearly adjusted all the way out (nut and rod are even with the end of the clevis)
- Clutch fork position is sitting on the driver side (crank/timing belt side) of the motor just as the pics show above
- When I push the clutch fork in toward the slave with my hand, there is sufficient movement and the slave returns the fork to it's original position as it should
- Clutch is bleed, definitely no air in the system
- Clutch feels good and the disengagement/engagement is near the middle of the pedal travel
I've come to the conclusion the Centerforce PP is just tall, and causes the clutch fork to sit to the driver side...At least, that's the only conclusion can come to give all the sh*t I've changed and/or inspected.
So, my question really is, how can I tell if my clutch is putting pressure on my crank thrust? I'd do a check with the dial indicator, but I'd think that wouldn't show the issue until there's an issue, which I'm not trying to wait around for. Also, I've always been told if the clutch slave returns with you push it in with your hand, you're good. Any truth to this?
Any help, advice, or comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Current setup details:
- Rod on the clutch pedal to the clutch master is nearly adjusted all the way out (nut and rod are even with the end of the clevis)
- Clutch fork position is sitting on the driver side (crank/timing belt side) of the motor just as the pics show above
- When I push the clutch fork in toward the slave with my hand, there is sufficient movement and the slave returns the fork to it's original position as it should
- Clutch is bleed, definitely no air in the system
- Clutch feels good and the disengagement/engagement is near the middle of the pedal travel
I've come to the conclusion the Centerforce PP is just tall, and causes the clutch fork to sit to the driver side...At least, that's the only conclusion can come to give all the sh*t I've changed and/or inspected.
So, my question really is, how can I tell if my clutch is putting pressure on my crank thrust? I'd do a check with the dial indicator, but I'd think that wouldn't show the issue until there's an issue, which I'm not trying to wait around for. Also, I've always been told if the clutch slave returns with you push it in with your hand, you're good. Any truth to this?
Any help, advice, or comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Last edited:
tektic
Well-known member
What is the flywheel step height?
What is the with of the contact end of the shift fork?
I think you may be right about the pp. Just being a little off. Unless your tob is incorrect size.
If you can still press the slave back by hand you shoud be fine.
What is the with of the contact end of the shift fork?
I think you may be right about the pp. Just being a little off. Unless your tob is incorrect size.
If you can still press the slave back by hand you shoud be fine.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
The flywheel was turned down by JAM down to .608 and I verified the measurement myself.
The clutch fork is in good condition. The pivot ball area isn't worn and the fork is straight (verified both by comparing to a new one).
Someone on T00ners said you're supposed to have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. He said I should feel slight pedal movement at the top before you feel it pushing the plunger in the master cylinder. I've never really paid much attention to this, but it makes some sense. Thoughts?
The clutch fork is in good condition. The pivot ball area isn't worn and the fork is straight (verified both by comparing to a new one).
Someone on T00ners said you're supposed to have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. He said I should feel slight pedal movement at the top before you feel it pushing the plunger in the master cylinder. I've never really paid much attention to this, but it makes some sense. Thoughts?
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
tektic
Well-known member
Sorry bud I put mine back together with the flywheel at .015 step and its working with no shim. I didn't even adjust my pedal after install. Which I probably should. Mine looked like yours did when I had a 2.5mm shim. last time around. Only other thing I changed was the fork because between the two I had one measured thincker than the other at the tob contact end.
Do yo have another pp to compare thickness?
Do yo have another pp to compare thickness?
Last edited:
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
.015? Is that a typo?
In theory, the flywheel step from the flywheel surface to the top step shouldn't affect clutch fork position. The step from the flywheel surface to the top step will affect how the clutch disc engages/disengages.
The overall height of the flywheel (measurement from the mounting flange to the top step) will affect clutch fork position. In my case, the top step was cut down which should move the PP closer to the block, and make the clutch fork sit more toward the passenger side of the car. But I'm not really seeing a difference, which leads me to believe this PP is just screwy. I've literally inspected/changed/adjusted everything else in the system that would have an effect on clutch fork position.
In theory, the flywheel step from the flywheel surface to the top step shouldn't affect clutch fork position. The step from the flywheel surface to the top step will affect how the clutch disc engages/disengages.
The overall height of the flywheel (measurement from the mounting flange to the top step) will affect clutch fork position. In my case, the top step was cut down which should move the PP closer to the block, and make the clutch fork sit more toward the passenger side of the car. But I'm not really seeing a difference, which leads me to believe this PP is just screwy. I've literally inspected/changed/adjusted everything else in the system that would have an effect on clutch fork position.
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Someone on T00ners said you're supposed to have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. He said I should feel slight pedal movement at the top before you feel it pushing the plunger in the master cylinder. I've never really paid much attention to this, but it makes some sense. Thoughts?
The freeplay should be evident in the clevis pin. Basically you want movement there before engagement so that you are not always depressing the plunger as you mentioned.
Someone on T00ners said you're supposed to have some free play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. He said I should feel slight pedal movement at the top before you feel it pushing the plunger in the master cylinder. I've never really paid much attention to this, but it makes some sense. Thoughts?
The freeplay should be evident in the clevis pin. Basically you want movement there before engagement so that you are not always depressing the plunger as you mentioned.
tektic
Well-known member
yes, .615
