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Clutch Dragging

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Quoting toybreaker:
^^^ good post! ^^^

... After getting schooled by the damn link at the end of the clutch rod, (the one that actually pushes on the slave from inside the car) being loose and taking away needed travel ...

I triple check that first.

The last three or four have all been toast.

Repairing the linkage by welding the arm to the shaft and replacing the bushing returned the system to an unbelievably sweet level of operation.



TB always makes people feel good about making informative posts, haha.

one thing that should be noted, repairing the linkage by welding the arm, should theoretically only be done with new parts, to get the exact position correct. if you weld the assembly up with worn clutch pedal parts, you are taking a chance that the arm could be in the wrong position.

i don't always have access to a welder, i use a different method that i believe is pretty damned good. after rebuilding the clutch pedal assembly, i take a 10x1.25 locking exhaust nut with a 14mm head (i had a few from a manifold job i did awhile ago) coat all the threads with red loctite, and i install it with my impact gun. the locking nuts do a great job in staying where you torque them (sometimes they're a pain just to install in the first place) so you wont worry about it backing off and coming loose as you would with a factory setup! you don't have a solid linkage between the pedal and the arm through a weld, but under the force of the impact gun, the loctite and locking exhaust nut holding it under that force, it theoretically shouldn't ever round off, or at least take an extremely long time to do so.
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Quoting mitsuturbo:
Pics or didnt happen.

I don't see how it's remotely possible to BEND a factory mitsu clutch fork for a W5M33 transmission.

(i suppose with a torch, and getting it red-hot enough, it's possible)



click

This is the only one he posted. and you can't really tell. He said that he had been driving the car for 80+ miles a day and made multiple trips between NY and Arkansas before that part of the fork ended up over there. It was an 2g AWD Spyder with an ACT 2600.
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
That's not proof of a bent fork. That could be a wrecked TOB, or pressure plate. Hell, it could be severe crankwalk.

I've yet to see a bent stock (cast iron) clutch fork.

Anybody?
Bueller.... bueller? bueller?
 

donkeylips

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
552
Location
Rochester, NY
Question: do you guys feel it sufficient to bleed the system with the slave cylinder not bolted to the bell housing? Or gravity bleeding only?
 
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