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Car smokes alot from exhaust during idle

MMCVR4

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Feb 16, 2005
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It only smokes at idle and not when running. I'm guessing that my piston rings might be bad, but can you gurus give me some other ideas? Otherwise, the car runs and boosts fine.
 

gvr4ever

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Valve stem seals are letting oil pass by. I had the same problem on a high mileage turbo talon. Oil stop leak helps. Or, you could try and replace the valve seals.

It actually blows by all the time, you just notice the smoke screen left after it building up while sitting with the engine running.
 

MMCVR4

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Any particular brand of "Oil Stop Leak" I should go with? There are quite a few different ones available. Thanks for the reply.
 

gvr4ever

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I think oil stop leak was the brand, but its just a band-aid. You will need a new bottle about every oil change, and it will still burn oil, just hopefully lot less. At some point, a real fix will be needed. Maybe shoot for a spring time fix or something.

I've heard they can be changed without removing the head. Gotta fill the cylinders with rope so the valves can't fall down. If you drop one, gotta pull the head.
 

MMCVR4

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I figured that the mileage on the engine wasn't so high, since it's a JDM Cyclone, but who knows. I'll do the oil stop leak method first and take it from there. Thanks again!
 

If you do decide to just replace them, you could invest in this tool and do it yourself, all you need to do is remove the cams. click

I picked it up for as many valve spring upgrades i do with cam swaps and its a life saver. You can do it all with the head still on. Actually changed a set of valve seals the first time i used it. Makes it pretty much painless.
 

ApexHunter

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Marysville, WA
A quick word of caution with the stop leak stuff. One of my autotech professors recently informed the class that over time that stuff will separate from the oil, kind of like how if you were to mix up oil and water eventually they will separate. Perhaps there are some formulations out there that have been designed not to do this. Anyway the problem being that it could build up in your oil pan and eventually clog the pickup, or possibly somewhere else in the oil circuit.
 

MMCVR4

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That's good to know. I haven't picked up any oil seal fixer yet. I'm just gathering all the parts that I will need, as well as the other things on the engine that will probably need attention, while doing the valve seal replacement process. Time to put some more money on the VR-4.
 

manitousxti

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Jan 18, 2008
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Fort Collins, Colorado
Quoting SBRJoe:
If you do decide to just replace them, you could invest in this tool and do it yourself, all you need to do is remove the cams. click

I picked it up for as many valve spring upgrades i do with cam swaps and its a life saver. You can do it all with the head still on. Actually changed a set of valve seals the first time i used it. Makes it pretty much painless.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gifI didnt know it was possible to replace the seals with the head still on, lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

gvr4ever

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Quoting MMCVR4:
That's good to know. I haven't picked up any oil seal fixer yet. I'm just gathering all the parts that I will need, as well as the other things on the engine that will probably need attention, while doing the valve seal replacement process. Time to put some more money on the VR-4.



Get the 3 gen revised lifters while your at it.
 

^^ Yup, best advice i have when using this tool is to put the pistons in the cyl that youre working on at TDC so that if you so happen to bump the valve, it wont fall into the cylinder the whole way. The valve seal wil actuall hold it up enough, but if you bump it too much it could very easily fall into the cylinder and youd have to yank the whole head off anyways.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

gvr4ever

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central Indiana
Quoting manitousxti:
Quoting SBRJoe:
If you do decide to just replace them, you could invest in this tool and do it yourself, all you need to do is remove the cams. click

I picked it up for as many valve spring upgrades i do with cam swaps and its a life saver. You can do it all with the head still on. Actually changed a set of valve seals the first time i used it. Makes it pretty much painless.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gifI didnt know it was possible to replace the seals with the head still on, lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif



Fill the cylinder through the spark plug hole with a soft (non splinter) rope so that the valves can't fall down.
 

atc250r

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Sep 11, 2003
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Orange County, NY
I have used the tool like Joe linked too, it works well but I prefer the one that doesn't screw down. It makes the job a whole lot faster:

54860.JPG


That link is for the Snap On one but KD or Lisle or someone like that makes the same thing for a lot less money than $130.

John
 

MMCVR4

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Quoting gvr4ever:
Quoting MMCVR4:
That's good to know. I haven't picked up any oil seal fixer yet. I'm just gathering all the parts that I will need, as well as the other things on the engine that will probably need attention, while doing the valve seal replacement process. Time to put some more money on the VR-4.


Get the 3 gen revised lifters while your at it.


What year range Eclipse? Also, what parts are included in the valve grind gasket kit? I was trying to find the old Mitsubishi Parts Catalog on here, but don't remember where it is. This way, I can just look up the parts I need.
 
Last edited:

atc250r

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Sep 11, 2003
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13,235
Location
Orange County, NY
Neither of those will fit, the head is too close to the springs.
 

Quoting Muskrat:
Has anyone tried the "cheaper" valve spring compressors Snap-on offers?

click



Atc is right. Ive used those before but had to cut a 1/2 piece of round stock, about 3" long and put it between the end of the tool and the retainer so it had enough travel to compress the spring and not hit the head, and notch out two slots on the side to get the keepers out. Its more of a pain than its worth.
 
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