Armitage
Well-known member
If noone's said it already, assuming the hydraulic system is okay and the pedal is adjusted to maximum possible throw of the stock adjustment rod, you're pedal assembly is probably worn out. That's what I'm fighting with right now.
click
Watch the first video on this page for how to properly adjust your clutch rod:
click
Shep, JNZ, etc. sell new pedal bushings and the lever arm. The replacement clutch pedal and rod are NLA from Mitsu. You can weld your existing arm to get rid of the play in it though.
Edit: one tell-tale sign of this problem is that you've adjusted the master cyl rod to it's maximum possible throw and you're still not able to get to the point where you're blocking the internal bleed valve (when you push the slave rod back in per the Jack's video). You can also perform the free-play test as described in the TRE page.
click
Watch the first video on this page for how to properly adjust your clutch rod:
click
Shep, JNZ, etc. sell new pedal bushings and the lever arm. The replacement clutch pedal and rod are NLA from Mitsu. You can weld your existing arm to get rid of the play in it though.
Edit: one tell-tale sign of this problem is that you've adjusted the master cyl rod to it's maximum possible throw and you're still not able to get to the point where you're blocking the internal bleed valve (when you push the slave rod back in per the Jack's video). You can also perform the free-play test as described in the TRE page.
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