Car does not go into gear when the car is running???

Good morning fellas,
About maybe 50 miles back I installed ACT2600,and Street disk. Clutch grabs great but I remember it was a bitch to go in reverse at times, it will grind a little. Then it was a pita to go into first... I know first and reverse have no synchros so I assume i have to adjust the clutch pedal? or Bleed line??

If the car is off it goes into gear fine, I CANNOT get into first or reverse when the car is on. BUT I can put the car in first and reverse with the car off, then start it in First gear and Reverse. The only way to get it in gear is to start the car in the gear. Any suggestions?

Btw when doing the clutch job i did not disconnect the slave.

Thanks guys, ended up being the cap on the clutch resorvoir, seal was bad and was leaking under pressure, changed the cap and works like new!

 

[AnotherNewb]

On flat ground, in first gear, hold your clutch in and rev your engine around 4500 RPM. If the car moves, your clutch isn't disengaging completely. start looking into a new master cylinder, slave cylinder or both. I won't go into suggesting that you adjust it since it has been getting steadily worse.

 

Oh how familiar this is. Sounds just like 1947's been acting and the master cylinder was just rebuilt 1200 miles ago /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

Will do, btw does the clutch being used have anything to do with this?? noo right?

 

[Ben]

yep, sounds like clutch system related. anything from the pedal to the clutch and everything in between. 1st does have syncros.
Do what the other guy said, put the car in 1st, start it and rev it up and see if the car creep foward. Do this with nothing in front of you please, like YOUR HOUSE! haha empty parking lot or somethign of the sort. When I still had a single disk(act 2600), my car would start creeping foward in gear about 6300 RPM. unacceptable. my act was set up perfect too. I sent the pressure plate, stock flywheel and a brand new street disk to jacks to have him set the correct step hieght. I also had brand new(factory Mitsubishi) master and slave cyls, braided clutch line and a good pedal. I even adjusted the clutch so far that the pressure plate "fingers" pushed in enough to rub the springs on the clutch disk and it still did it. I bought a QM twin disk and never looked back. One of the best things I ever got for my car.

Take a look under your dash and see if youre master cyl has any fluid comming in the car.
Pull the boot back on the slave cyl and see if liquid comes out.
bleed the system. There is a good write up on TRE's site somewhere.
Check for a worn clutch pedal.

your syncros in 1st are obviously worn, but should still be able to get it into gear unless they are comepletly trashed

I'm sure there is a lot more I'm forgetting, but there's something to go off of. I fought clutch dragging problems for a long time and learned a lot.

 

[Ben]

Quoting 2DAMAX:
Will do, btw does the clutch being used have anything to do with this?? noo right?



yes. from my experiance and what jack's told me, ACTs are hit and miss when it comes to clutch dragging problems.
NOt saying this it YOUR problem, but is a possibilty

 

[AnotherNewb]

If the clutch was having problems the moment it was installed, I would be inclined to suggest checking it, however, the problem seems to be getting worse as time progresses, and rather rapidly from the sound of it.

Master/Slave or both.

 

[Nabeel]

Change the clutch fluid to Dot4. Extended clutch slave cylinder rod may help also. this is the cheapest & fastest mod can do for now. If problem not solved & you master & slave are OK. If problem not solved then you have to take out the transmission & check the clutch & flywheels bolts, adjust the pivot & change the fork. Hope this help.
With Single Racing clutches you expect such problems.

 

[Hertz]

Did you replace the fork, pivot ball and throwout bearing? You should have.

Extending the rod is a band-aid, taking up slop generated from other areas. It should be used to adjust the pedal, not to correct a dragging clutch.

 

I just changed the throw out bearing....damm im gongg kick myself in the teeth if I have to drop this tranny again..

 

[AnotherNewb]

Quoting Hertz:
Did you replace the fork, pivot ball and throwout bearing? You should have.

Extending the rod is a band-aid, taking up slop generated from other areas. It should be used to adjust the pedal, not to correct a dragging clutch.



OEM bandaide.

 

[brisvr4]

Did you also get the flywheel machined or at least checked?

 

I def. got the flywheel surfaced at my machine shop, OEM T.O.B bearing and clip.

 

[Launch]

plastic sleeve TO bearing?
I just pulled #395 trans out due to TO bearing failure. ACTs different pressure plate face doesnt seem to be making correct contact with mitsu oem TObearing. Plastic sleeve version seems more rugged. I found that the fork was slightly bent as well. For testing purposes i compared every TO bearing offered for our cars, and Im trying something out with machinist dye to find maybe the correct merge of parts without going twindisk. Keep in mind this is for street cars on a street car budgets, I'd prefer a twin if i could /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[jb4]

I have to agree with AnotherNewb, master or slave, leaning more towards master.

 

[14u2nV]

Get under the dash and adjust the clutch rod out, see if that helps it. May be a temp fix, but sometimes a temp fix is better than the alternative.

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

I am having the same big headaches with 802. Rebuilt tranny 2k ago, new 2600, ACT flywheel from previous owner. Car was fine the first 800 miles or so and then started getting difficult to put it into gear. Just as you got worse little by little. Next thing you know, it won't go into gear so I adjusted rod and all was good for about 2 weeks and then it seemed that the rod moved by itself. I readjusted it last weekend and tightened the nut and the same issue, I had to adjust it daily. So I will try maybe adding another nut this weekend to keep it from moving on it's own, I hope that the issue. Guess I will find out.

 

[AnotherNewb]

Quoting jb4:
I have to agree with AnotherNewb, master or slave, leaning more towards master.



I have to agree with me again on your problem too.
You are solving nothing by adjusting your clutch master rod.

Watch Me It doesn't get any easier than this.

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Neither are leaking at all. You believe there may still be a chance for failure?

 

[Rausch]

Quoting Hertz:
Did you replace the fork, pivot ball and throwout bearing? You should have.

Extending the rod is a band-aid, taking up slop generated from other areas. It should be used to adjust the pedal, not to correct a dragging clutch.



If everything else looks to be operating as normal. ^^^ This is most likely the cause. You can (although not recommended) shim the pivot ball, but you're already apart at that point, so better served to just replace the ball and fork.