For some reason I am not able to check my CEL when i hook up the snap-on computer it tells me i have no comunication can anyone help with this problem
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Rausch
Well-known member
Well i am using the Snap-on Solis and im just using the HYUN-2 plug that goes by the fuse box
Rausch
Well-known member
I thought there was a Mitsu plug, and proprietary personality key. It's been forever since I actually used a snap on tool (yay the brick) so I'm thinking you are using the wrong plug/key?
Edit: I don't remember if the keys were only for OBD II
Edit: I don't remember if the keys were only for OBD II
Last edited:
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quoting Toybreaker:
You using the "hyundai" or one of the other mitsu connector cable adapters?
Look on the side of the connector/adapter where it plugs into the port. If there's a round hole for a jumper cable there, I *think* you have to power that one up externally from the cigarrette lighter/battery with a jumper cable.
I dunno, I got tired of snap on's sh*t when they fawked up the brick, so I haven't played with their new whiz bang toys very much.
I don't have five minutes to enter all the data when the mac system only takes five seconds, and graphs thru the head unit with no additional connections.
Mac pOwns snap on in the hand held diagnostics department.
Cut/paste answer from his other thread on the subject over in the newbie section...
You using the "hyundai" or one of the other mitsu connector cable adapters?
Look on the side of the connector/adapter where it plugs into the port. If there's a round hole for a jumper cable there, I *think* you have to power that one up externally from the cigarrette lighter/battery with a jumper cable.
I dunno, I got tired of snap on's sh*t when they fawked up the brick, so I haven't played with their new whiz bang toys very much.
I don't have five minutes to enter all the data when the mac system only takes five seconds, and graphs thru the head unit with no additional connections.
Mac pOwns snap on in the hand held diagnostics department.
Cut/paste answer from his other thread on the subject over in the newbie section...
Yeah the hyun-2 plug does have a hole port on the side of it so your saying i have to run the jumper power to it i will try it in the morning..Thanks a lot I will give more info tommorrow
Hertz
Staff member
A simple voltmeter is the easiest way to check the CEL IMO.
Thank you Toybreaker that was the problem i didnt have the nothing plugged into the hyun-2 adapter. Ok so i got it to work and i get 4 codes.
1-13.Intake Air Temp Circuit Problem
2-14.TPS Signal Out Of Range
3-21.Coolant Temp Signal Out Of Range
4-25.Baro Pressure Sensor Circuit
So Can Anyone give me a reason why its throwing all these codes and my car runs like sh*t. I have a 2g MAF 550cc evo injectors walbro 255 fuel pump
1-13.Intake Air Temp Circuit Problem
2-14.TPS Signal Out Of Range
3-21.Coolant Temp Signal Out Of Range
4-25.Baro Pressure Sensor Circuit
So Can Anyone give me a reason why its throwing all these codes and my car runs like sh*t. I have a 2g MAF 550cc evo injectors walbro 255 fuel pump
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Have you pulled the ecu and chacked the caps yet?
Keydiver has a much better understanding of the various pattern failures inside the ecu that could cause these problems. Hopefully, he'll be along shortly to give his sage advice.
In the meantime, physically check the wiring harness for broken/damaged wires, loose grounds and the like.
Be sure to check the ecu temp sender wires and harness at the t-stat housing. That area is often heat damaged, and the wires breaking/broken right at the edge of the little rubber booty. If you need a repair pigtail, shoot me a pm with your shipping address and I'll get one in the mail.
Keydiver has a much better understanding of the various pattern failures inside the ecu that could cause these problems. Hopefully, he'll be along shortly to give his sage advice.
In the meantime, physically check the wiring harness for broken/damaged wires, loose grounds and the like.
Be sure to check the ecu temp sender wires and harness at the t-stat housing. That area is often heat damaged, and the wires breaking/broken right at the edge of the little rubber booty. If you need a repair pigtail, shoot me a pm with your shipping address and I'll get one in the mail.
rgeier11
Well-known member
Almost guarantee it is the ECU.
stevep
Well-known member
I can't remember right now (it's late) if that's from a blown sensor ground or from leakage damage but pulling the ECU and checking it is a good idea.
Quoting gvr4315:
1-13.Intake Air Temp Circuit Problem
2-14.TPS Signal Out Of Range
3-21.Coolant Temp Signal Out Of Range
4-25.Baro Pressure Sensor Circuit
#1 & #4 would seem to indicate that you have the 2G MAS wired wrong.
#3 is probably just a bad connection out at the sensor. Those wires have a chronic problem with getting hard and brittle from the heat in the thermostat area. A loose connection makes it read like -40*.
#2 is probably a defective TPS, but requires further testing. The proper position at idle is 9-11% (.45-.55 volts), and should raise smoothly to just under 100% (5 volts). Can your scanner test that? Hopefully its not related to the miswiring of the MAS, but it could be, so I would fix the MAS wiring first.
1-13.Intake Air Temp Circuit Problem
2-14.TPS Signal Out Of Range
3-21.Coolant Temp Signal Out Of Range
4-25.Baro Pressure Sensor Circuit
#1 & #4 would seem to indicate that you have the 2G MAS wired wrong.
#3 is probably just a bad connection out at the sensor. Those wires have a chronic problem with getting hard and brittle from the heat in the thermostat area. A loose connection makes it read like -40*.
#2 is probably a defective TPS, but requires further testing. The proper position at idle is 9-11% (.45-.55 volts), and should raise smoothly to just under 100% (5 volts). Can your scanner test that? Hopefully its not related to the miswiring of the MAS, but it could be, so I would fix the MAS wiring first.
