So, I don't think I have seen a comment concerning self locking copper nuts or similar style nut with different metallurgy, that were all tightened in a center to outside sequence, using a proper torque wrench.
I installed the copper self locking (read - three point pinched, or two point pinched) nuts, which are commercially available at any automotive parts supplier,
or online car parts source. I haven't had one back out yet.
My last install, with a 2G manifold using 1G stock studs, meant I have just enough stud to mate to the nuts, without any threads of the nuts not being swallowed into the nut for locking purposes.
I did have enough room to get my digital torque wrench (ala Snap-on) into the appropriate places, using the shortest possible extensions to keep things relatively close to spec when being tightened.
I had to make between 8 and 18 passes before the three layer MLS Mitsu gasket, would deform/sit fully crushed and the nuts would not set off the buzz and beep
function (also checking my readout screen for exact torque on the fly as it dials in) with a large turn indicating things were still settling in.
Used manifold can take a while to torque down.
I realize that you don't have this sort of access, so if crows feet or extensions must be used, judgement once again comes into play.
I have not had stainless washers (flat) and copper lock washers ever back out, when torqued with either a swing bar torque wrench or an accurate digital torque wrench.
If your manifold is torqued down in less than 3 passes, I would back everything off and do it all at one time, IF possible, again.
These are the nuts I ordered, and yes, I should have installed longer studs, to accommodate a washer going in between everything, but that is where my parts lay in front of me, and I wasn't turning back. Many factory manifolds are installed with a nut, and no washer. Ask me how I know ...
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FSM manual listings from 1989 show 18-22 FT/LBS, 91-92 GVR4 FSM shows the same.
Click me for GVR4 FSM
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