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A/T Swap Parts List

Mark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
2,515
Location
Naperville, IL
So recently I converted my Galant Vr4 to Automatic and I couldnt seem to find any good info on the internet or really anywhere else on how to do or what parts I needed so I have decided to create this lil faq to give out all the information I have learned through my experience.

Now first of all you may be asking yourself why the hell anyone with a fast car would want to swap to automatic? Well its simple, for drag racing it cant be beat, not only can a auto trans shift faster than you ever will be able to but it also is more consistent and since during the lauch the entire driveline is preloaded you are far less likely to brake parts like axles, driveshafts t-cases etc etc.

First of all I will list all of the parts that are needed and their part numbers:

-A/T FlexPlate x2 MD735674
-Crank Bushing MD732972
-A/T Plate – MD952138
-Rear Engine Mount Bracket – MD143793
-Both Passenger Side mounts – MD143844 Trans Bracket, Body Side Mount
-Starters are Same
-The Inner shaft on the Axel on the Drivers Side
-Shifter w/Cable and Brackets
-Transfer Case
-A/T Rear Differential
-A/T Trans
-Torque converter bolts
-Automatic crankshaft bolts (to hold flexplates)
Now I will break down all parts of the swap and what needs to be done.

Motor Mounts - Some of the motor mounts on the trans are completely different and are impossible to swap over from your manual trans. Luckily both pieces to the front mount are the same and the mount on the drivers side for the engine can obviously be left alone. But both passenger side mounts are different. And on the rear of the trans the bracket that mounts on the trans is different but the mount that stays on the body of the car can stay.

Transfer Case and Differential - Both the transfer case and differential will need to be changed.

Shifter - Obviously you will need to install a shifter, which will bolt right in and then you will also need the single cable to connect it to the trans, you will also need to make sure you have the bracketry to connect the cable to the trans.

Shift control - Now this is where the swap may get a little difficult, there are two different ways to go about controlling the trans. You can either A) Buy a Transmission control computer, wiring harness and all sensors and let the computer control it. Or B.) Buy a IPT Shift controller, make some plates to cover the holes for the speed sensors on the trans and call it a day. I myself went with the Shift controller, it was the easiest method and now I can control my trans as if it were a stick by the push of a button. If you decide to try to piece together the computer system for the trans then all I can say is good luck, it wont be easy. There is one other method to control the trans and that would be with a AEM EMS or other Stand alone system but I wont even go into that.

Links to help out:
IPT Transmissions - http://www.importperformancetrans.co...ishiauto.shtml


I maybe missing something will double check and update.
 
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Nice info. But the IPT link doesn't work. So the IPT controller allows you to shift the trans by pushbutton, kinda like a sequential trans? Very interesting. I love driving a manual, but it would be cool to have a built auto controlled by paddle shifters.
 

cheekychimp

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Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quote:
Nice info. But the IPT link doesn't work. So the IPT controller allows you to shift the trans by pushbutton, kinda like a sequential trans? Very interesting. I love driving a manual, but it would be cool to have a built auto controlled by paddle shifters.



IPT Link
 

Mark - Just so you know the auto starter and manual starter are not the same. The nose of the starter is longer on the auto starter then the manual since the ring gear is on the converter on an auto so it has to extend farther to get it. This is especially important for people who are running two flexplates instead of one thus moving the ring gear even farther away from the starter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Comparing both 5spd and automatic intermediate shafts yielded some actual differences last night. Not sure if you knew this or not Mark.

Both are identical with the exception of the size/position of the cast mounting bracket (to the block). The automatic shaft is ~3/8" further away from the block when mounted. Keep in mind that the A/C (or whatever) bracket mounts in between the shaft mount and the block.

This means that to run the 5 spd intermediate shaft on the automatic, you will need some strong 3/8" spacers (nut). Mine currently doesn't have AC so I am using spacers either way.

Hopefully, Digit will be able to confirm this for us.
 

Mark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
2,515
Location
Naperville, IL
Yea I know they are different I wasn't sure what it was called.. I found that out when we couldn't get it to line up and was on a frantic search to find a auto one.. It's hard to tell they are different but hey are..


As you can see on list..
-The Inner shaft on the Axel on the Drivers Side
 

We can see that on the list. This is a viable option for people wanting to do this swap that might not have all the resources as most of us when sourcing an automatic intermediate shaft. If I'm feeling frisky I'll try to jack up the trans this afternoon and do some measuring with the trans mounted up to verify what Daenan was saying. This was after comparing the automatic and manual shaft side by side with the help of a caliper that looks like it was used by Benjamin Franklin.

Mark - What were the problems with lining up when you tried to use the manual intermediate shaft? Was is a bracket mount bolt hole location or just bracket offset?
 

It's the offset, the front diff sits more "rearward" than the manual cars. You can use a manual shaft in an auto, you just have to pack the bracket out from the block, just like when you remove the AC bracket. You can't use an auto shaft in a manual though.
 

That's the same conclusion we came up with about the offset from the block. Thanks
 

Mark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
2,515
Location
Naperville, IL
Quote:
It's the offset, the front diff sits more "rearward" than the manual cars. You can use a manual shaft in an auto, you just have to pack the bracket out from the block, just like when you remove the AC bracket. You can't use an auto shaft in a manual though.



Yea we noticed that to when doing the swap.. If you use all the auto engine brackets like I did the engine sits a little more forward to
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Ok what was done to the insides to make it live. I started to do this a few years ago when there was a Galant GSX at the junkyard but the guys at the only transmission shop in town I trust told me to run and not think of it again. A list of mods inside might help someone considering all this. For example

Drilling out the drums to release fluid faster, the chevy and ford guys always do this.
Upgrade clutch plates?
Upgrade valve body or shift kit? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Torque converter, how much stall are you running and is it a non lock up converter.
Fluid cooler?
external filter?
Upgraded input output shafts?
 

I will be doing a full write up with pictures soon of the swap process. Probably around the end of this month or the end of august depending on how motivated I get. Write up will include trans upgrades and the such, what route I went with certain parts and why. Some information will have to be kept a secret through for proprietary information purposes.
 

4500RPM stall, end clutch upgrade, translab shift kit.

2G automatics have a lock up, 1Gs don't.
 

Anybody got the part number for the A/T starter/spacer plate I need a new one and mitsu is useless and I don't have caps on my laptop.
 

Mark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
2,515
Location
Naperville, IL
Sorry to bump a old thread. Ive had few pm's about this here is the list.
 
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