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#461... Soon to be a real car again (again)

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
It was a "street car" event with a 1600ft straight for drag racing. No Autocross. Cars were allowed to start from a dig or do roll starts. A lot of really fast cars were there apparently, but John's 1g turned some heads as most people think DSMs are garbage and just break down all the time.

I wanted to go, but it's a 3hr drive and I had stuff going on here to do. That, and the forecast showed a lot of rain, which did end up happening, keeping the really fast guys from doing anything on Saturday.
 
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turbohf

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Nov 18, 2011
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540
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Lake Stevens, WA
oh yeah, i was told to come out to that too...bitched out. sounds like it would be cool to watch.
 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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3,737
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Tacoma, WA
John's car is ridiculous. On the little 6266 he went [email protected], he showed up at the event on the FP3794 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif He lost a roll race by about the amount the other car jumped him, but he also forgot to hold down the nitrous (usually only uses it to get on the stall). First roll race the car ever did and it was against a 1000 WHP nitrous ZR1... The videos of the event are hilarious every time he comes up on another car it just crushes them- even Lucas English's 880WHP CTS-V looks like it must be powered by gerbils. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif

I had lucas get a base tune on the car and I was making passes slowly increasing boost until I got to a happy safe limit @ 24psi. Only run I was even to the point the car was dialed on was with a BMW 2002 with an AP1 S2k swap (1800lb, 230hp) and it's hilarious He got a bit of a jump (40mph roll on 2.0 w/T67 = zero boost. I need to try brake boosting), but as soon as I got boost it was over /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsught.gif

I need to get some good pics of the car, including underhood. Right now there's some hacky sh*t since I did a 3AM rewire of the secondary fuel pump before the event and it's not as tidy as I'd like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif



I may need some more fuel, and while I think the airflow numbers are optimistic, I can't wait to get on a dyno. If those are even close, it's ridiculous for 92 octane chevron. I will say the car has some slight traction issues in 1st & 2nd which makes me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 
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slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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Tacoma, WA
Couple new pics, just from my phone. Newer, better real camera pics coming soonish.




Also clay barred and waxed the car yesterday, and did a full clean & condition of the seats & whatnot. Actually doesn't look half bad anymore.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
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3,442
Location
SoCal
Looks awesome /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

Those brakes a baller as hell. Easily one of the cleanest builds on the site, nice work man.
 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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Tacoma, WA
Thanks Brett... the car has come a long way and my wife and others comment on how nice it is, but after 10+ years I know the car and all the flaws and they jump out at me. I think it is a pretty good 10-20' car personally, but then I can show you all the paint chips, dings, and things I wish I'd done better. It doesn't help that I've seen/ridden in/been around 1051 since I've owned the car, and Mark has IMO set a bar that's worth all of us working towards.

Ed: me too, even if they get a bit of haterade for being "on every galant ever". They're reasonably light, look good, and you need to be able to see the big ass brakes if you want to win on the show car circuit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Thanks for the kind words guys, I will try to get some good pictures soon. I'm hoping for good weather next (18-20th) weekend, as English Racing is doing a dyno day, but I don't want to drive to portland and back in nasty weather. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ughdunno.gif
 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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3,737
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Tacoma, WA
So I haven't driven the car in over six months due to being busy, but i was watching the video I made and I've definitely got some jonesing to get it out from under the cover.

If you haven't seen the video before (don't remember if I posted it in some other thread, but it's not in this one):

#461/1000 bit of 2nd & 3rd gear

mostly looks like this these days though....


 
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slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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Tacoma, WA
Partly due to a desire to actually finish this stupid pig, and partly Covid19, I'm actually working on it again



Stock brake clevis prior to pedal assembly removal



For a car that doesn't even have surface rust on the underside and suspension can be removed without PB blaster... the pedal box is nasty. Definitely going to sand, neutralize & paint before reinstall



Modifying pedal ratio, and eliminating clevis adapter (balance bar installs directly into pedal)



Painting pieces, looking far better already


 
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slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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Tacoma, WA
test fit round 1 of 10,298,235,092,835



Rear master cylinder clevis hits the pedal box... time to do some cutting



not pretty, but it's under the dash, not sharp, and everything clears



close up of the balance bar pivot with the master cylinders attached



custom CNC mounting plate, Tilton master cylinders & Wilwood balance bar. Nasty old power booster in the background. Cylinders are 3/4 Front & 5/8 Rear



more cutting! the plate matches the bolts perfectly, but the Tiltons need more room to get through the firewall



Of course, the pedal assembly would feel left out, so it wants to be disassembled and have more cut off there too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif



Brief glamour shots of the wheels & such... Front brakes are a TCE performance kit, 13" Dynapro 6 calipers



Dyna Pro 4 rear calipers, and a second parking brake caliper that uses the OEM cable pull



Master cylinder plate & masters mounted



If you want to see the pedal moving in action, here's a gif-v link on imgur

Dash back together, seat installed



Looking more like a real car all the time



Built a bracket out of aluminum- when your fab tools are some cutting implements and a drill press, you do the best you can



Better view of how the reservoir mount sits



hand bent hard lines- they're 10mm at the blocks to match the car, and SAE at the master end due to the fittings I had being AN -> SAE... ah well, it's not stupid if it works



Everything mounted, and sweet illegal ATE Super Blue fluid in the system (USA DOT bans non-amber brake fluid for street use, derp)

 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
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Tacoma, WA
thanks! definitely hoping it helps make the car a bit more composed. I had a pretty interesting brake experience coming down from ~130 last time I had the car together that kind of cemented the idea in my head. With the factory bias, and the big fronts, it's really easy to lock the fronts with the rears never really doing anything. Not that it's unmanageable, or that they're worse than stock (definitely not) but it definitely requires more attention to finding that threshold for peak braking/grip.
 

JNR

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Joined
Apr 23, 2004
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9,802
Location
ca
Do you have, or will be installing, an adjustable brake proportioning valve? Not sure how they work with ABS though (as in, would a standard unit like you may find on Summit work, or does it have to be special).
 

slugsgomoo

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Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,737
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Tacoma, WA
^^ Mark is correct. The balance bar allows you to choose which cylinder (front or rear) gets more power, so that's the adjustment right there.

As for ABS... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif NO.

It's garbage from the factory- it's 1980's dual channel glacial junk that increases stopping distances (my super non-scientific testing methods showed a decrease of > 18 feet with ABS disabled doing 60-0). As a result, it's been eliminated on my car since 2007.

I'm working on increasing pedal feel, and braking performance, and the stock ABS is 100% the wrong direction for that

I will say, for anyone staying on power assist brakes, or going to the Ostar setup Craig has (liv4psi), an adjustable bias valve (especially with a remote to adjust from the cabin) would be a big upgrade over the stock proportioning valve. Wilwood proportioning valve with remote bias adjust (definitely cheaper on summitracing though!). You'll also need one of these bad boys to handle the rear lines since there are only 3 output ports (2 front, 1 rear)

From talking to a few folks with adjustable bias on their racecars, generally you adjust bias towards the rear until you start getting rear lockup under hard braking, and then you adjust back towards the front a bit. It should result in getting the absolute maximum braking performance you can, since you're not under utilizing the rear. TBH, other than having to build lines (either SS or hard lines) to make it work, that's not really any more expensive than an OEM ABS delete, and you get a big performance perk IMO.
 

raptorWagon

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May 17, 2007
Messages
2,808
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Quote:
generally you adjust bias towards the rear until you start getting rear lockup under hard braking, and then you adjust back towards the front a bit. It should result in getting the absolute maximum braking performance you can, since you're not under utilizing the rear.


That's actually the instructions per Wilwood on their Prop Valves.
 
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