448/2000 norcal; Update; ON THE ROAD!!!

Picked this up from craigslist for approximately 2000$ it started and ran with no abnormal noises but had a high idle. Did not run when warm.

Pulled the ecu and it was pretty toast. Got a used one for 75$ and threw her in today.....Its ALIVE. Still has a very high around 1500-2000rpm COLD idle, when warm it has a lumpy 800-900rpm idle where i can hear the throttle "shudder" causing the lump in the idle.


Drove it around the block and it all seems good. I removed the bcs restriction plug. I started to hack the top of the airbox, but decided to wait to finish until after the smog /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Goods; records up to 120,000mi like you cant imagine so about 20-30,000 unaccounted for by second owner. Everything is there and it runs, builds boost etc even the original stereo works! no major dings or body problems!

Bad; rear seats torn need upholstery, headliner is in poor shape, sunroof wont open all the way but vents and closes properly. glovebox latch is broken so i have the entire right side underdash removed. the paint is a bit faded could use a buff and wax, underhood is really dirty, and the front brakes are pretty poor shape.


onto the pics

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

Things i would like get some help with is, lowering the cold idle, supposedly the isc was replaced, but that could not have been the case.

Is the isc built into the throttle body or intake manifold?


If i were to purchase a sheet metal intake, and a larger throttle body, will this bypass the isc?

also when downshifting at low speeds i was not able to go from 2nd to 1st at a speed of 20mph or so it didnt want to downshift even with some rev matching. Bad synchro?




now my explorer when i rev it up in park or neutral it goes to 3000rpm NOW very responsive throttle. The mitsubishi is really really slow in comparison. Is that an issue or is it the difference in technology? Any input appreciated.

 

welcome to the vr4.org

if you need a headliner, glovebox or rear seats i am selling them off my car i also have a thread parts for sale if you need parts...

im converting the vr4 into a race car...

 

[dsm10o0]

Welcome to the board man, its Nico, guy who sold you the ecu's. which ecu did you tried on? car looks good.

 

[Brunoboy]

Where you from?

 

Norcals usually a pretty good giveaway

 

[Brunoboy]

obviously the bay area is anywhere from North bay-South Bay, East bay- The peninsula, I live by SFO airport.

 

[dsm10o0]

He's from Ukiah.

 

Nice ride man looks nice.


ISC is built in to the throttle body 2 small 8mm or 10mm (can't remember off the top of my head) hold it in. I'd get a logger and check to see where the TPS is set to, adjusting it may fix your idling problem.



Jesse

 

[The_Big_Weave]

Should tell him that on a logger that his tps should be at around 10%. The high idle could also be a boost leak.

 

[G]

Nice rescue so far!

 

Need help here;


Drove the car today ordered new front rotors and axles....Put in new plugs, and air filter. It pulls HARD i got her up to about 75 in a couple blocks it MOVES, it goes up to one slot from maxed out on the boost gauge so everything engine wise is cool. Good call on the tps i will check it out asap.


Big problem, the transmission will not downshift into first or second at any reasonable speed even when trying to rev match. I can get it into first about 15mph but i have to really push it into gear and it grinds pretty good. Downshifting into 4th and 3rd function normally.

I can feel the shifter move forward and back when shifting under WOT i assume this means i need Engine/Tranny mounts also.



Any performance rebuild shops in California? I really don't have the money to do it up right with a dog-box, i would love to get a stage 2 with the welded diff and act 2600 with a lightweight flywheel....That is 2000$ into a 2000$ car that will be as fast as a STOCK vr4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif






Any opinions? I'm not sure i want to spend the money on this car, its drivable but i know stop and go traffic might not be do able. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Olson]

Most trans have block outs to keep you from slammin it in first like that unless your under say 5mph or so, the second gear thing i have no clue about. And a dog box ..... no get a 2600 act resurface your flywheel and call it a day.

 

Im pretty sure its the synchros in the second gear causing the no downshift. Also i have never driven a stick shift that cant downshift into first to slow it down.

 

[Barnes]

If I can shift a DSM tranny into 1st without having to stop, I'm impressed. These aren't the greatest gearboxes in the world. Especially in stock form.

 

interesting, well im looking into a transmission from jacks transmissions. sent them an e-mail we will see shortly on the actual costs. I think the taller evo 1st would help this issue along with the tricks they seem to pull on the synchro it may be worth the money.

 

[Olson]

just a question not trying to be a prick or anything but why would you want to shift to 1st above 5-10 mph anyways... even in auto-x theres very few tiem when you need to shift to 1st. jacks is a good place to go for trans also

 

you are correct, BUT stop and go traffic having to shift down into SECOND is the real issue here. Neither Second or First downshift properly. This is going to be a huge problem doing sub 40mph stop and go only being able to use either 3rd or 2nd gear. 2nd gear will not be able to upshift or im STUCK lugging in 3rd. Make sense? I had a hard enough time in the 10 minute drive around the city. If you get into 3rd you then have to use 3rd until about 15mph when i can get into second then have to be stopped to get the transmission into first, even double clutching.

 

[Barnes]

Don't ever expect to really shift into 1st gear on these cars at higher speeds. Although you can get the double syncro 1st gear setup if you really want. However, it isn't uncommon for 2nd gear to be in bad shape on these cars. A double syncro 2nd gear is one of the most common upgrades people do. It helps a lot.

 

found a local guy that can rebuild the trans for 600$ kind of a friend of a real good friend of mine, so that should workout well. Im going to call up a couple of transmission shops and source the evo 1st 2nd and 5th for the double syncro mainly but i will see what they will sell me. Might as well get it done while its apart. Ill be pulling the trans next week. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif