#1868 Project pump gas (Finally under the knife)

Ceramic bearings are more fragile and are not designed to take impact loads such as the ones your wheel bearings see from pot holes, speed bumps, ect. They're best left to none impact loaded areas in my personal opinion. Most race cars (stock car and indy included) still use steel bearings for this reason. Check any of the major bearing manufactures product catalogs and you'll see (I know, I work for one).
IF the car is strictly for drag racing, then they should be fine, but if your doing any street driving or road racing (rumble strips), it would only take one good wack or bottoming out to destroy them. And when ceramics go, they self destruct quickly and quietly. Just a warning that you won't hear much at all when they go, so be careful.

 

[1qkfwd]

That's makes since. I did read that the ceramics had right about the same weight load if not beter, but there impact load was less than a steel bearing. Based on that and a good nights sleep I've decided that a fresh rebuild with standard bearings is the way to go for this car. I will look into these for my talon since it's really a track duty car.

 

[1qkfwd]

OK so ive been driving this car since I got it and put almost 800 miles on it. I finally got it to smog and got it registered. So the upgrading begins. I have some go fast goodies on the way. I have a head, springs & Retainers, SS valves, and an intake sitting on the shelf ready to be cleaned and machined. So far I have replaced the front window, installed new tires, cd player, all 6 speakers, window tint, replaced some misc interior plastics, added GM maf & Translator, rerouted some vacuum lines, and downgraded the cruise control. The turbo smokes enough that I got pulled over for not having plates on the car and the cop said it smoked pretty good under acceleration. So I am forced to install this FP 16G I have sitting on the shelf. When I do that I am going to add the 90 style oil cooler. I was going to start on getting the rear end done but in driving the car I have found some other issues that are far more important. The PS rack is messed up so I have a non ps one sitting here im going to install along with new tie rod ends.

I would like to get a good coil over suspension, does any one know of whats out there that rides smoother than the rest? And im still in debate on what turbo to go with. I am looking at the PTE and the Fp HTA turbos. They are so dam close minus the price I can get them for. Also Whats a good T3 manifold that will fit these cars? Im also in need of a bunch of small parts to get this car looking a lil bit beter. If anyone has this stuff please PM me plus I will post in the WTB section. List includes:

Rear speaker grill
Driver inside door handle
All the seats
Manual seat belts and plastics
89 under dash
Taillights

Heres how she looks now after the second cleaning. It still needs a good wax as it still has alot of oxidation from sitting.

 

[NateCrisman]

Im running a super cheapo XS power T3 manifold. I think they are like $250 on ebay? I pulled mine off a gvr4 I parted out this spring, but it's been working fine. Granted, there may be some power to be had moving to a shearer or JMF tube header that is really designed well, but thus far no complaints and mine runs good. If you can weld, I'd suggest putting in a brace or two to hold up the turbo weight.

As for coilovers, I have the D2 set; they ride pretty much like you have no suspension. Stiff is very much an understatement! But they are light and adjustable for height, which to me, is far more important that comfort.


Which PTE turbo are you looking at? Im planning to possibly upgrade this winter, everyone is telling me the 6262 in journal bearing is good and cheap and will work well in a .82 T3 housing with 5bolt o2 flange. (meaning bolt on for me).

 

[1qkfwd]

I was going to go with a Dnp, but having run one on my race car it cracked at the wastegate tube 25 passes into the season. I was really looking for a twin scroll design but that will limit me to I think would be two turbos. The borg warner and the pte 6262. The more I think about it I may go with the PTE billet ball bearing with a divided housing. I know punishment racing sells a true divided housing manifold and so does shearer fab. I think this is where the money is gonna count. It would be nice to lay down almost 600 hp and have crazy spool up time.

As for the suspension I did look at the D2 as an option. I don't know if I want that stiff of a ride. is the damping adjustable to, or is ride height the only adjustment you get? I would like something that I can drive every day with a somewhat comfortable ride. Then at the track make a few adjustments and be ready to race. I run a ground control and kyb setup on my talon and its really not that bad of a ride.

Another thing I forgot to add, I did a compression test and had great results. The numbers where higher than I wanted but I can't complain because its a built bottom end with eagle rods and JE pistons. I came up with 157-164 across. With those numbers the engine would be close to a 9.0:1 ratio. The friend of the guy that used to own the engine told me about the internals and that there JE pistons. Don't those only come 8.5:1?

 

[atc250r]

Quote:
I would like something that I can drive every day with a somewhat comfortable ride.



I've been in several cars with different types of coil overs. If you want a relatively comfortable ride then you don't want coil overs IMHO.

Quote:
I came up with 157-164 across. With those numbers the engine would be close to a 9.0:1 ratio. The friend of the guy that used to own the engine told me about the internals and that there JE pistons. Don't those only come 8.5:1?



Compression ratio has an affect on what you will see on your gauge but a lot of other things will effect the numbers the gauge gives you. Even cams and manifolds will alter how much air the engine breathes in so it changes how much it will compress.

John

 

[1qkfwd]

I'm not using comfortable in comparison to stock ride. I'm basically looking for the beter riding coilover. Since you have riden in a bunch of different ones which one would you say is a beter ride?

As for the compression I understand that there are alot of variables to the gauge reading. The numbers I pulled up are a typical 9.0:1 ratio. A stock engine is usually in good shape and stock is around 120 across the board with 272 cams. With stock cams you cam see up to 130. Most jdm short blocks are around 140ish. That's 8.5:1 right. Every 9.0:1 engine with cams has been 150-160. The only exeption to this is my race engine because it has huge cams and loose rings. All these numbers are for 1g engines. So from past experiances one would say that this engine is a 9.0:1 or 8.8:1 compression piston. I was told they were JE pistons. The engine was built maybe 8 yrs ago. I thought JE only made 8.5:1 pistons. Am I misinformed here with something. And to clarify one thing theses numbers are all low since I live at a 4700 ft elevation.

 

[Rausch]

Back to Wheel bearings for a sec. You want interesting. check out the wheel bearings on the Koenigseggs. They are something like 240mm and originally designed for Helicopters (Curtis will approve), available in both steel and ceramic flavors. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[1qkfwd]

Where did you find info in the bearings? I didn't see anything on those. On a side note that looks like a fun ride. Over 1000hp in a 2800 lb carbon fiber bodied car. You can count me in. I had to toy around and create my own.

 

[Rausch]

They are LeMans spec bearings. The original CC had (I think) a more standard bearing. But since designing the CCGT, both the race car and the road cars are fitted with HUGE 240mm vented steel or ceramic ball wheel bearings.

They make mention of it Here

 

[1qkfwd]

I can't read that small on my I-phone I will have to watch that tomorrow. I was more or less looking for an off the shelf bearing. I won't have as much time to source those out. The rear end in the car now whines under decel and has to much slack in it. I'm going to keep this in mind forthright future though after I get all the other bugs worked out of the car.

 

[Rausch]

Let's put it this way: LeMans spec= Super expensive. Money better spent elsewhere. Those bearings (even in steel form) are probably the cost of your car, maybe more. You want to free up HP, figure out how to mount anything that spins with roller beatings. (Cams, crank, etc.) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[1qkfwd]

I was told and probably shouldn't let this one out, but there will be testing of some of the ceramic bearings on parts of the car under the hood. Since the bearings don't take so kindly to impact, there's a good chance you can free up some hp by adding these to the alt and timing belt componants. Will it free up enough hp to make it worth the dollar? Maybe not. But if your trying to get every hp to the ground possible that would be something to look at.

 

[1qkfwd]

Ok so I got some parts in early today.

Ive had this and I still have to port it out and clean it up.

 

[1qkfwd]

Ok so I was excited on how this turned out and couldn't wait to post it up.

I had to find a place for my boost gauge that was not really in sight.

I have also been do alot of little stuff to the car getting it ready for all the big upgrades. I cleaned out the engine compartment of the a/c, power steering, and cruise control. Last night I installed the 1G shifter and new bushings from SAM (blue642). Thanks sam what a difference those made. Sitting on the shelf is a freshly cleaned head that I will start porting this week and EVO 3 intake that I started on. the 4 bolt rear is sitting there waitin for the gears to go out to get shot peened and then rebuilt. As soon as I start getting all these parts together I will get some pics of the install. I have a turbo picked out, it is sitting on the shelf waiting for me to send the money. Maybe this week I will get my lazy ass to the bank and deposit the cash. Still trying to decide on a manifold I have narrowed it down to the DNP, punishment, and the ERL. Why those? IDK just right there avalible at a good price I guess.

 

[gmp]

Dang thats sweet i was going to do something similar with my turbo timer. But ended up hiding it in the cig tray since it never gets used..
But that looks really good clean the thefts will never expect that !!!!

 

[1qkfwd]

Ya I have more stuff that im gonna tuck away. I just got my underdash today.

The fed ex guy also dropped off this:

 

Good choice in turbos. That turbo running 35-40psi will get you
to your goal.
Personally I like the T3.63 but i'm sure
that will work fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Steve

 

[1qkfwd]

It took me a bit to figure out which turbo. I really couldn't find any info on what exhaust housings others are running to get an idea. I think that spool between your .63 journal bearing and my .82 bb should be close. I believe you and I were chatting in the sd section of ecmtuning. I saw your thread after I purchased my turbo. Now after seeing your logs im pretty confident in my setup and goals. When are you getting the springs in and heading to the dyno. There's so much doubt on these forums on what I want to do and what you have done with pump. My disadvantage is we are limited to 91oct unles I want to pay 5 something a gal for 93. Then I might aswell go 100 but that out of the question.

 

[1qkfwd]

OK so its been awhile since i've updated this. I finally got to the point where I was able to park the car and start tearing it apart. Right now I will be putting in a stock 90 engine with 75k miles on it. I pulled the head and words can't explain how clean this engine is. While im rolling around on this 75k engine I will finish building the engine thats in the car now. Im in the mocking stages of this so I can make sure everything I chose is gonna fit.

Heres some pics of the before and the mess I have to deal with:

Heres the Good stuff:
Erl Manifold With the PTE6262

Oil filter relocation with oil cooler

Very big Dsm front mount