#1868 Project pump gas (Finally under the knife)

[1qkfwd]

So after 8 years I finally picked up a vr4. I was going to do this build with a 91 talon but I couldn't pass up the deal on this galant. My main goal is to get deep into the 10's on pump gas. No additives or e85 just plain ole piss water. The car still has to maintain most of its street ability. Through out the years I have had alot of time to think about this and am no noob to dsms. I have a GT40r talon that I race and I have built plenty of other dsms thoughout the years. With that said on with the build.

I have carefully picked out some of the parts for this car and things that I will have to do to get this thing going.
The car: 1991 GVR4
I plan on keeping this a 2.0. My original plan was to build the engine with 8.5:1 pistons and an eagle h-beam rod. When I picked up the car it had a built bottom end. The cool thing about this build is that everything that I plan on upgrading this car needs replaced. I will be using a built 2G head with an EVO 3 intake manifold. Later when the time is right if its needed I will upgrade to a race manifold. I have seen the EVO 3 manifolds make up to 600 hp so I don't see it being a restriction anytime some. When I picked up the car it had a 16G,evo 3 turbo manifold, 2.25-2.5 exhaust, ETS intercooler kit with GM mas, act cluch, and a fuel pump not sure if its 190 or 255. As for the rest of the car it need alot of tlc and heres a list of some stuff I will be adding to the car over time.

Performance:
T3 manifold
Upgrade from the 16g to a PTE6262
custom exhaust
DSM Big fmic
cam upgrade (either fp or gsc)
twin pump set up
injectors
fuel lines
Ecm link v3 with possible speed density
Trans rebuild with 4 spider diff
hub rebuild front and rear with possible bearing upgrade
4-bolt rear swap
possible 5 lug swap
shifter and bushing upgrade
and alot of the little stuff tha may be needed

Weight stuff:
CF hood since this one is screwed
CF trunk with no spoiler
wheels
driveline
no tar
no cruise control
no ac
non power steering rack
misc stuff thats just in the way

I have already replaced the windshield and tires because they were in bad shape. There is a bunch of stuff that I will be replacing over time to so I can get the car back in good shape.
Heres the list:
Inside drivers door handle
seats all 4
carpet
steering wheel
left taillight
cup holders
the piece between the headlights and bumper
6 bolt air oil cooler
Im sure there is more stuff and I will add it as I come across it.

So this is kinda the break down of the build, I will be adding to this as time goes by. I hope to learn some new stuff with this build that I don't know. Maybe others will learn from this to. So feel free to comment or add opinions to the build.

 

[turbowop]

You're going to find that going deep 10's on pump gas in a GVR4 is waaaaaay more difficult than doing it in a regular DSM.

BTW, welcome aboard. It's nice to have somebody new to the board that can spell and use decent grammar rather than the texting style crap we've been getting with this last group of n00bs.

 

[1qkfwd]

Im figuring that if I can get the weight of the car down to 2900 that it will be doable. Im guessing that all the parts I picked will work together to get the job done. I have a history of getting dsms to hook and go down the track really well. I took my 91 talon with minor weight reductions, a fuel pump, boost controller, free mods and was able to get it in the high 12s. That was with a full stock exhaust with a hollowed out stock cat, stock intercooler and piping, and stock injectors. I was in the car $1500 including the price of the car. I have good faith I can get this GVR4 close to my goals. It being so hard do is gonna be most of the fun. I enjoy a good challenge.

Thanks glad to be aboard. I didnt really graduate high school but carry a good intelegence level to survive.

 

[turbowop]

Well, I guess with Nate getting his almost to 10's recently on a 50trim and some weightloss, it's possible to go low 10's with the bigger snail. I always compare E.T.'s to what I've seen in the past with these cars and it's pretty rare anybody goes that quick. Post up some pics of the project when you get a chance.

 

[CarRacer]

Good luck with the car and your goals. Send a PM to iceman69510 with your VIN and the badge number so he can update the records. Welcome to this community as well.

 

[1qkfwd]

Thanks guys. The pics are up. This thing needs alot of work. I can see why though with the odometer clocking in at around 224,000. By the time im done the whole car will pretty much be like new.

Oh ya does anyone know any good vendors that are cheap. I have a wholesale with slowboy racing and I deal with extreme for the DSM parts, but I didnt see to many VR4 parts through them.

 

[deez]

Congrats on the purchase, looks like she needs some work but not too much. For VR4 specific parts, check JNZ Tuning. They can order whatever you need for good prices. Also check out RockAuto. Both have good prices. If you need anything, you aren't too far away from the Northern California crowd, just let us know. There's a good number of people over here who have valuable knowledge. Good luck!

 

[deez]

And check this out

click

 

[KT]

Quoting 1qkfwd:
Oh ya does anyone know any good vendors that are cheap.



To go fast, you definitely want to go cheap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[1qkfwd]

Cheap is the only way to go. No point in spending an ass load of cash when it's not needed.

So I changed all the fluids or what was left of them and talk about nasty. I'm glad that the majority of the parts that are in rough shape are getting replaced or rebuilt. I also took it to smog it so I can start buildin this up and of course it failed. The hc's at idle are to high at around 438. There suppose to be less than 220. I got home and checked the fuel trims were 82. The other day when I check the smog (thank goodness for hookups) the hc's were only around 280. I guess that's not to bad for not having a cat. I should be able to tinker with the maf translator on thurs so I can get a positive smog. Once that's done. I'm gonna start on getting the chassis all lightened up and up to par. I had a source on some beter bearings for the hubs but there not ready for sale to the public yet. Hopefully they get done in time so I can get the 5-lug swap done. Then off to making power.

 

[Barnes]

Quote:
I had a source on some beter bearings for the hubs but there not ready for sale to the public yet.



Something wrong with OEM wheel bearings that last 150k miles? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[1qkfwd]

The chassis has 224000 on it why not change them out? Besides I want something that rolls alot smoother.

 

[toybreaker]

If you go with the ceramic units, don't use any power tools on the axles!

Torque by hand only!

Another note on these units is that your core pieces (hubs/knuckles) must be in excellent condition.

Any burrs/nicks/gouges/funky wear patterns that won't allow the bearing to seat neatly/concentrically will load the bearing assymetrically/and or not allow the preload to be correctly applied, and the bearing will fail in short order.

Torque by hand only!

 

[Barnes]

Quoting 1qkfwd:
The chassis has 224000 on it why not change them out? Besides I want something that rolls alot smoother.



Oh. I wasn't saying you shouldn't replace them. I was just curious what could possibly be better than the stock wheel bearings. And smoother? I'm not really following you here. Unless these are some kind of bizaro fluid dynamic bearing, I don't see any ball/roller/needle whatever bearing being significantly better than stock. Any info on these new bearings?

 

[1qkfwd]

The bearings im looking to upgrade to are ceramic. Curt Brown has used them in his dsm with great success. He is the one that is suppose to be gathering the bearings for public sale. I didn't ask what the hold up was yet, so I hope that patience is going to pay off on this one. These bearings are only going to be used for the front and rear hubs. If CB can't get the ceramic bearings I will just order some new ones and get the rear of the car rebuilt so I can move on.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting 1qkfwd:
Cheap is the only way to go. No point in spending an ass load of cash when it's not needed.






So the guy asking for cheap pricing, is planning to get ridiculously expensive ceramic wheel bearings?

I'm not even sure how well they worked for Curt. I don't remember seeing any back to back results comparing them to normal wheel bearings. I realize they work, but I'm not sure if they're really worth the money unless you're trying to squeeze out that last bit of performance out of your car, after every other mod possible has been done.

 

[JSchleim18]

I read up on them quickly. Less heat and they are lighter.

click

^^Decent read..click the comparison links

 

[1qkfwd]

Im guessing that they worked wonders. Why else would he be trying to get these made for the DSM comunity. Cb is taking this even further and putting ceramic bearings on other parts of his car. Im playing with fire here taking pump gas to its extreme, everyway I can free up a lil hp im game for looking into. I have not contacted any companies yet about the ceramic bearings, I did come across this place click They seem to have a wide variety of bearings. I have only found one down side to running these type of bearings and its that they will crack unlike a steel bearing will deform.

Jeremy you mention that you think they require more maintenance. What would that be. The bearings im replacing are sealed maintenance free bearings plus they are covered by a metal dust shield.

 

[JSchleim18]

My bad I seem to have been misinformed...carry on!

 

[1qkfwd]

Oh ok, Cause if there was any down sides to these I would like to know. I wasn't tryin to be rude in any way. The feed back on this is great. I don't know that much about bearings right now. I'm trying to further my knowledge on these. If it helps with this project then it will help with others down the road.