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1517's thread ***More pics added 12/31***

Well, the engine in the car is getting bad enough that it is having a real hard time starting. I've pulled down my other engine, and have mixed feelings with what I've found. The pistons were supposed to be Evo 8 pistons, and they are just stock 1G pistons. The plus side is that the engine is in incredibly good shape. The cross hatch on the cylinders is like brand new. I'll locate an Elantra 1.8 head and rebuild that to gain a bit of CR and reassemble it with some ARP head studs and a MLS gasket. Shouldn't be too much longer and she be running good again.
 
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The old engine came out of the car today. Goes down as one of the smoothest engine pulls I've ever performed. There's a few things I'd like some suggestions on.

First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?

Second, I want to restore working PS to my car. The 4WS is gone. I've been told the GVR4 rack has a tighter ratio than a T/E/L rack. Is this true? I need to decide if I'm going to have mine rebuilt or turn it in as a core for a 1G rack.

I have an RRE "no-name" flywheel now, but I'm considering a fidanza. Its kinda out of my budget, so do you think it would be worth it?
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Regarding a six puck solid hub... that's what i've been running for YEARS. There are a couple things that wear with these that may not wear as badly with a sprung hub. One thing is the input sleeve on the Tcase. The splines take a beating. Another thing that has happened to me after running one hard for about a year, is the splines in the hub actually stripped out. I've seen this happen to others as well. I've also seen a lot of used solid hub discs that have a lot of slop in the splines, and it's only a matter of time before they strip out. Fortunately, the input shaft in the trans is very strong, and i've seen no wear there that would be a concern.

It sure is better than tossing springs, and i can't seem to get a sprung hub to last an entire year, so i have always felt that the solid hub is the way to go, but as with anything, they do have their own issues.
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
Quoting galant1517:
The old engine came out of the car today. Goes down as one of the smoothest engine pulls I've ever performed. There's a few things I'd like some suggestions on.

First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?





my 1g put down close to 400 awhp on a 6 puck unsprung/2100/light flywheel. it held up to about 8 thousand miles of 25-30 psi through a 3052 on the daily basis for DD duty. i pulled it out to put my twin disc in, and it looks fine. never slipped once.
 

Struc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
Quoting galant1517:
First, the car had an ACT 2600 with a sprung hub 6 puck in it. The disc might as well be used as a tambourine now because the hub and springs are so loose. I don't really like the feel of the 2600 anyway, and a 2100 isn't durable enough in the long run. I want a solid hub disc, but I haven't ever run anything other than ACT before, and I really can't afford to buy something, have it suck, and have to go buy another. Any help here?




How much HP are you going to be putting down? I've got a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch in both of my cars, and have been extremely pleased. The one in my Spyder has lasted nearly 100k miles now. Pedal force is as light as stock, but still has great grip. It's not for drag racing a 350hp car, but if you're keeping it near stock, up to 300hp, it will serve you very well.

Quote:

Second, I want to restore working PS to my car. The 4WS is gone. I've been told the GVR4 rack has a tighter ratio than a T/E/L rack. Is this true? I need to decide if I'm going to have mine rebuilt or turn it in as a core for a 1G rack.



The turning ratio is the same from everything I have read. Just watch out to NOT get an Automatic T/E/L rack, as they do not have as tight of a ratio as the manual cars. Given the price for a rebuilt rack (check Ebay too), it's a no-brainer.
 

Thanks for the info guys.

As for the centerforce, I plan on making at least 300 hp, hopefully more, to the ground, and with plenty of abuse. I don't think it'll hold up. But I hear people talking about Clutchnet and southbend, and apparently some XTD (ebay) clutch that works. I just don't know what buy.

As for the rest of the car, I cut out the remnants of the 4WS lines today and yanked the ABS motor and lines. I also removed the transverse crossmember up near the radiator and knocked the bushings out of it so some energy suspension ones can go in. I started unbolting all of the stuff mounted to the firewall and strut towers so I can clean and paint the engine compartment.

Another question came up though. I pulled the non-ABS lines and proportioning valve from a junkyard car too long ago to remember the arrangement of the lines between the M/C and the valve. Mine got slightly distorted so holding up doesn't help either. My question is whether it matters (if you are standing in front of the car) if the front port on the MC goes to the left or right side of the valve, and the same for the rear port on the MC. I really don't want my brakes to not work.
 

Another question about the racks. If I go with a 1G rack, is it a good idea to get the rack to subframe bushings from a 1G too? I know that the extra lines associated with the 4WS racks are supported on one side with the rack bushing. I'm afraid that the voids created from the rack lines not being there will cause the GVR4 rack bushing to allow a 1G rack some "wiggle" room under the stresses caused from cornering, therefore causing inconsistencies in handling.
 

Struc

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Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
There is still a crossover tube that runs from one side of the rack to the other on the T/E/L rack. I doubt the one open hole would make much difference. OTOH, they don't cost too much, so it's not a horrible idea to 'refresh' them.
 

PreskitVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
272
Location
Prescott, Northern AZ
+1 on centerforce. Built motor, 20g, AEM, two-step, aggressively driven. The one and only time I will ever drag race, I was pulling down 1.6 60 foot times with a 5500 rpm launch. I will never run anything else!
 

After talking with Jack and Kevin at Jack's Transmission's, I've decided to simply get a solid hub 6-puck and run my existing 2600 PP. I'm going this weekend to drop my trans off so he can fix it. I'm going to take my flywheel and PP to him also, because he has a guy that he uses for flywheel resurfacing that has built a jig to mount a flywheel/disc/pressure plate combo to and essentially test the release point of the pressure plate. This allows him to "fine tune" the cut on the flywheel to ensure the disc isn't dragging at higher rpm's, while still allowing for optimal clamping force while the foot is off of the pedal.

I've also figured out the arrangement of the lines between the brake M/C and the proportioning valve for the ABS delete. The front port of the M/C goes to the passenger side port of the valve and the rear port goes to the driver side.

I've talked with my cylinder head guy and he says my head should be done by the end of this week so I'm getting excited. I still have to source a new P/S rack and get some subframe bushings installed, get my DP drilled and welded with the bung for the wideband, and a few other things, but its coming together.
 

Cylinder head guy said the head is ready. YES!!!!

I have a another question. This is going to be a matter of opinion. Who, given the opportunity, would take the time to cut the old, brittle, faded wire loom off of the harness and replace it? I've got atleast fifty feet each of various sizes (in black, not red or blue or some crap) and a big part of me wants to do it, but another part of me says "what a PITA, is it really worth it?" So is it really worth it? I have to partially dig into the harness anyway, some connectors are broken or missing, and I'm swapping in the "quick release" injector clips.
 

Picked up my cylinder head, rod and main bearings, and ARP head studs late Friday afternoon. I then took the ~short~ drive from my house to Colorado Springs (70 miles) to drop my transmission off at Jack's. If any of you have been following them, then you'll know they switched locations and their new building is pretty sick. Talk about walking into Mitsubishi Heaven. But I digress...

I spent most of the day scrubbing parts and my engine compartment, after which I immediately proceeded to empty 5 cans of Gloss Black spray paint to freshen up said items. Gotta love the look of fresh paint. I'll be picking black boogers for a while, but "new" parts are awesome.

I also put the new subframe bushings in.

Tomorrow's plans include making a junkyard run to look for a decent 1G rack, and a DSM P/S reservoir cap, because it doesn't appear that the GVR4 cap fits a DSM reservoir. There will probably be a trip to Greeley also, not sure yet, but I'm planning on it.
 

Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
Check, check,check it out, making headway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif... if you are round these parts I'm not out til at least 5
 

Quoting galant1517:
Cylinder head guy said the head is ready. YES!!!!

I have a another question. This is going to be a matter of opinion. Who, given the opportunity, would take the time to cut the old, brittle, faded wire loom off of the harness and replace it? I've got atleast fifty feet each of various sizes (in black, not red or blue or some crap) and a big part of me wants to do it, but another part of me says "what a PITA, is it really worth it?" So is it really worth it? I have to partially dig into the harness anyway, some connectors are broken or missing, and I'm swapping in the "quick release" injector clips.


I haven't done it yet but I have to say yes go for the wiring harness rewire. Hell, if you have the engine out of the car its easy to get in there.

Only part that is a pain is if you still have the dash in.

DR1665 passed along a good idea to me, hope he doesn't mind if I pass it along, get a large flat piece of wood, like 1/8 of an inch thick by like 4 ft by 4 ft and drill some screws into it to the shape of how the harness snakes and then just mimic that with new wiring. Of course label all the clips and then label each wire end and then clip and transfer them one by one. Who knows, it may not be as bad as you think and much like anything with these old cars you will probably be glad you did it after you are done because honestly, that wiring bit is probably the most tedious part of rebuilding one of these cars.
 

^^^^^, I was just talking about removing all the old loom, the black plastic "wrap" over the actual wiring. I'm not going to rewire the whole car. I have a whole spare harness, if need be, I'll just swap it in. But that is a great idea...

I had some good luck at the junkyard today too. Picked up a rack for 40 bucks, another hyundai V/C with bolts, a couple DSM p/s caps, and some stuff for my S-10. Then I sold some old parts on craigslist, which effectively made everything I got today free. I finished the day +$11.

Sorry Diego, you never hit me up, so I thought you didn't need my help anymore. I can head up there next weekend though, just let me know.
 
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Diego

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
2,132
Location
In a van down by the river, Iowa
All good I need to get my pay still from the dealership, waiting on these people to be financed is a headache.... only thing that sucks about a dealership is working 100% commission.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

This whole working 5 days a week thing sucks. I'd be driving her by now if only I was able to dedicate all of my time...

But I talked to Jack's, the transmission needed a bunch of parts, kinda surprised about that. They are awesome though, giving me a great deal to get it back to tip-top shape. I should have it back by the middle of next week, which also surprised me, I expected a bit longer.

Nobody else wants to throw their two cents in on my wiring loom question? I will probably end up doing it, because now is the best time to get it done, plus I'll be able to tuck away some unused connectors and such.

I will be pulling my old subframe/rack/control arms this weekend, painting the rest of my parts, and then I'll start reassembly. I am aiming for mid-May to see her move under her own power again.
 

Spent a long time on the car yesterday. Its been said before, and it'll get said again, but anti-seize is a good thing. On the passenger side of the car, the control arm to subframe mounting bolt was seized solid in the hole. I managed to save the control arm, but the subframe is scrap metal now. I had to cut the mounting ear off so I could cut through the bolt. Then I had to press the bushing out of the control arm. Its a good thing to have spare parts. I felt a million times better about all of it knowing full well that I had another subframe and another set of control arms. Now I have to order another set of control arm bushings, but no big deal.

It turns out that loom I have isn't as big as I thought, so the larger diameter sections of wiring haven't been touched, but I have re-covered the smaller bundles. I have reattached the harness to the engine bay, put back all of the brake parts, installed my other subframe, with the poly bushings, and hung up a couple random brackets.

I sent my torque wrench out to get recalibrated, and it isn't done yet(its amazing how 10 days turns into 3+ weeks), so I'm waiting on assembling the engine.
 

Still waiting on my torque wrench...

I'm ordering a bunch of goodies tonight. Control arm and sway bar bushings, tial MVS wastegate w/ appropriate o2 housing, braided stainless oil drain tube, oil cooler kit, aeromotive AFPR w/ install kit, and an upgraded fuel supply line. Oooooooooooh I'm so excited...

I took last weekend off from wrenching, as my normal weekly routine of laundry/house cleaning/relaxation had been ignored for too long. I plan on breaking out the soldering iron and the heat shrink this weekend though, and wiring in my guages, safc, new injector clips, MAFT, and the lights for my jdm fenders.
 
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