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#139 - CF hood & Nitrous install

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Nate If it has a aluminum flywheel do me a favor. First jack up the car remove stupid little dust sheild and mark two of the friction ring bolts and make a mark on the ring and wheel. Now get in the car and start it a few times and then go back under. Dissimilar metals on the ring and flywheel could have corroded or the 3 little ghey allen heads that secure it could have broke came loose etc. By starting it it may shift enough to see the ring move on the flywheel. Now slowly spin the engine over and check and lay fingers on all 20 or 18 of the missle nuts on the backside. Those screws are like 10-32 and not designed to hold the kinds of loads fidanza engineers put on them. I've thought this was a f up in design since the first one I ever saw. Anytime you replace a friction plate you can see the cupping in the plate and the wear to the inside on the aluminum where it was touching and where it wasn't. I bet the ring is spinning and shifting under load. I bet if you drive it and launch a few times the noise would go away because of thermal expansion of the flywheel. Poor car needs a heated garage.
 

NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
I don' have that little plate on the car, so it was easy to check without taking anything apart. The back of the flywheel is fine, I specifically checked to make sure no ring gear teeth were chipped off. The bolts that hold the ring gear on were on solid and I didn't notice any of the hardware holding the friction surface off.

It's a clutchmasters aluminum flywheel BTW, not a fidanza.


I'm chalking this one up to misalignment of the bellhousing & starter to the Block & flywheel due to the missing front trans bolt. There's got to be a chipped ring gear tooth or something that I can't see from the back causing the noise, that's really the only thing that makes sense.

 
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onesickcrx

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Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
1,076
Location
NY
The nitrous fuel and n20 solenoids have different seals so they can not be swapped and they also have different internal orifice sizes. What I think people are saying is the ring gear on the flywheel is moving (spinning) possibly so mark flywheel and ring gear together with marker or scribe it with a pick and see it the marks defer or move after a few starts.

Good luck I hop you hit your 10's
 

THEKID

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Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
302
Location
bergen county nj
screw that noise!! nate it's all or nothing put the nitrous in with no jets whatever the bottle pressure is putin out thats what you get!! lol that will put you in the 10's for sure.

it will also put you on a flat bed for sure

sorry i cant make it tomorrow something came up best of luck to you and try to keep it in one piece
 

NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Quoting Mark:
From experience I dont recommend more then 100-125 on a dsm motor =)



I did 160 hit on my yellow 1g it went from going 131mph to 148mph with just that. Granted, direct port kit on a built motor. My current setup has neither the engine strength nor drivetrain strengh to actually use a monster 150-200hp nitrous setup, even though it would be super fun to make my low 11 car go high 9's. hrmmmm /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif always next year.
 

NateCrisman

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Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Ok, think I found the problem with the fuel solenoid. The nitrous solenoid has a spring on top of the plunger, my fuel solenoid does not. I assume this spring returns the pluger when the magnet shuts off. The solenoid is designed so that fuel pressure on the inlet side goes up on top of the plunger pushing it down onto the seat creating a strong seal. If the spring is missing and the plunger isn't seated, there is a good chance the fuel pressure won't be able to seal up the plunger if flowing fuel is holding it up.

Sucky part: NOS rebuild kit to get that spring is $39 a whole new solenoid is $76. The spring is all I need, it's a $0.20 part if I knew the size and approximate rate. The one in the nitrous solenoid is very weak and small...wonder if it's the same spring, I could just take it to home depot and go spring searching?

pictures on NOS website and summit's website seem to show the same generic pic for both nitrous and fuel noid rebuild kits.
 
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Struc

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Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
Side note Nate: Was it some local place that did the windshield for $200, or national chain?

Safelite Auto Glass (known around here as Auto Glass Specialists) is like $320 now. It was around $220 in spring this year - not sure why it jumped $100 in a few months.

I've still got to get mine done, and was just looking for options.
 

NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Local guy did mine: Finishline Auto Glass.


I called Diamond Auto Glass...which is now owned by Safelite Auto Glass (they must be aquiring all the little local places)..they quoted me $288.95 + tax to come to my place and change it.
 

NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
After 6 spots today hunting for that spring, I had success:
Napa, local hardware store, advance auto, Sears hardware, home depot....all had virtually the same spring assortment cabinets with the next closest spring being about 2" long and 4X the diameter. (the original spring is like 1/16" diameter and maybe 1/2" long..tiny. smaller than a spring in a ballpoint pen (tried that first)).

Went to Lowes Hardware as a last attempt before coming home tonight and ordering the $38 rebuild kit. same spring assortments..BUT an interested employee came over, I explained it's for a nitrous kit, he's like "WTF, let me see that". He walks over to the door lock section, pulls out a big case with low and behold: a plethora of tiny little springs, screws, tools. It's a tool kit they use when re-keying door locks, none of it for retail sale. I took one of each spring that fit in the hole, 4 total, so I have some variety in length and spring rate. Any of them will work. I'm seriously going to bring that dude coffee and donuts next week for being awesome.

So, looks like "IT's ON" for this saturday.

to do:

[*]hood pin install
[*]wire bottle heater
[*]put noids back together (5 minutes) and test for leaks
[*]pack tools and spare driveline
[*]get laptop, palm, & camcorder charged and ready to go.
[*]assemble an entourage
[/list]
 
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NateCrisman

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Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
awesome. I picked up some 1/2" threaded rod, two cotter pins, 6 nuts, and 8 washers just incase I was forced to make a set of "home depot hood pins" temporarily.
 

RedTwo

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Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
1,917
Location
New Zealand
Bah, just cable tie it down - if you do it, and run a 10, I can then validate my claims that all the fast VR4s run cable ties /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 

NateCrisman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
ARRRGGG:

Fuel solenoid fixed...nitrous kit is online. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
hood pins arrived, just have to install
3.5" downpipe installed (will run sans catback)


Weather channel is saying 70-80% chance of rain from friday afternoon till saturday night. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I can't run on sunday due to my nephew's babtism & party.
 
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