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#1350/2000 DD project build

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
A bit late in the game, but figure why not. I bought 1350/2000 back in June 08', upon arrival from deployment, I knew from the beginning that this car was going to be requiring a good amount of TLC with the rust underneath. Come to find out when I changed out the rear subframe, on the right side where it mounts to the car, it was cracked through the metal to the bushing, just about all the way to the top (somewhat scary after you realized you had just autocrossed on that a week prior). Despite what friends had nagged me on to sell the car and just find a rust free body, I chose to stick with this car and not simply give up on it, then watch it be added to the scrapped list of GVR4s.

Long story short, from the day I picked her up I've made a good amount of progress on the car bringing her back to road worthy condition as well as minor upgrades here and there with keeping up on maintenance.

Specs at time of purchase
142k on the clock
Stock Motor
ABS Disabled
4WS Lines plugged
Stainless Steel Braided lines Front/Rear
No Radio
Faze boost installed in one of Curtis' 2 gauge din panel
3" one piece Exhaust consisting of a Megan Racing Downpipe welded to some off brand High flow cat and muffler
Evo 8 Suspension swap
OEM Sunroof Wind Deflector
Peppered with hail dents
Rebuilt Salvage title
Clear coat gone on Roof and rear bumper
Cracked front windshield
Cracked front bumper on Passenger side
Broken Left foglight
Rusted Rear subframe and all suspension components
Slipping Clutch - went out on return trip back to VA, first thing I fixed.
Timing belt done at 108k - this was good to know
1G Shifter assembly and shift knob
Came with original owners manual in mint shape and the "diamond care road service" card.
Driver's seat has usual tears on the bottom, came with seat cover though.
Steering wheel has the normal wear and tear.

Early on Pics

broke down just outside Statesville, NC, this is when the clutch went out, half way back to VA.
IMG_0750.jpg

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IMG_0751.jpg


Rust is bad mmmkay
IMG_0753.jpg

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Hey those are my fuel lines
IMG_0758.jpg


Upon taking heat shield off I find my exhaust leak source...the stock exhaust manifold is cracked in a few spots.
IMG_0682.jpg

IMG_0683.jpg



Current Specs/Mods

Motor/Engine Bay/Drivetrain
170k on motor
Timing belt job done at 158k, also did the valve cover and spark plug seals at this time as well
Removed Cruise Control
Removed Emissions Canister
Removed and plugged all unnecessary vacuum lines
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator
FP Exhaust Manifold Studs
Evo3 Exhaust Manifold
MHI Big 16G
Evo3 o2 Housing
LC-1 Wideband o2 sensor
Replaced Faze boost gauge with Prosport boost and water temp gauge (18yr old connectors break easily)
Mesh Screen over turbo inlet
Oil catch can installed
Speed Density conversion - completed this back in January
-GM 3 bar MAP sensor
-GM IAT Sensor
-Ostrich 2.0 Eprom Emulator
-Full Throttle Speed GM IAT & GM Map Sensor to MAF connector harness for plug n' play purposes
ETS Anodized Black GVR4 FMIC with black 2.5" piping.
Lower Shores Performance Manual Boost Controller
Rebuilt Alternator

Tuning/logging
DS-Map/Jackal
Dsmloggers.com datalogger cable

Steering/Suspension
4WS Removed
PS Pump & belt removed - Dry rack for now
R/R Rear Subframe, including all control arms and sway bar
R/R Both Trailing Arms
R/R Left Rear Caliper
R/R Right Rear caliper
R/R Left Rear Lower Control Arm - I had the trailing arm failure a few months back, it warped the crap out of the arm.
New Rear Rotors from Rockauto
R?R all ball joints on rear arms
R/R Rear diff for 3 bolt LSD when Left rear axle went out.

Exterior/Interior
JDM Front bumper
JDM Projector fog lights with projectors swapped out for the yellow ones.
JDM Clear Corners
Curtis made bumper brackets for JDM bumper
Clear coat is coming off the hood now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
1G shifter assembly and shift knob
89' LS Underdash w/ pocket

Wheels
AMG Type 1 Wheels
Stock 91 wheels - awaiting to be restored at some point

Brakes
Replaced Right Front Calipers - 1 rusted sticking piston = /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
Replaced Rear Calipers
New Rear Rotors
Raybestos OE pads for now


Parts not yet installed
Gas tank - waiting till I get new fuel lines
Walboro 255lph pump - waiting to install the gas tank
E-Brake Cables
New Front Rotors
Right Rear Dogleg

Right now on my things to do next are the rear wheel bearings, rebuild driveshaft and replace carrier bearings, replace the leaking Oil Filter housing with a 90 OFH w/ oil cooler, replace front axles, and swap out the dry rack for a manual rack. The car still has AC, though I'm debating on removing that as I never use it. It used to work, but upon changing belts I found out the tensioner bolt head was broken off and the rest of the bolt is rusted to the bracket and thus that bracket came out and stayed out.

Pics from along the way of my progress

Subframe Removal and Replacement - Removed and replaced it 3 days prior to the DSM/Evo Shootout 08'
IMG_1546.jpg

IMG_1545.jpg


Oh look rust is removing itself for me already
IMG_1550.jpg


So that's what the pumpkin with the 4WS pump looks like
IMG_1555.jpg


Only pic of the Engine bay I have in stock and messy form
IMG_2410.jpg


I think this thermostat is bad
noname.jpg


Rice rocket sounding muffler
IMG_0936-2.jpg


Vibrant
IMG_1388.jpg

IMG_2027.jpg


Random Pic
IMG_2514.jpg


JDM Corners and yellow projectors & install
IMG_0479.jpg

IMG_0484.jpg


3 Bolt LSD Pressure washed, drained old oil and filled with new oil
IMG_0541.jpg

IMG_0548.jpg


From the trailing arm failure fiasco
noname3-1.jpg

noname-3.jpg


compared to new arm
trailingarm.jpg



Left rear control a little warped? Just enough that the ball joint would slip out on its' own.
IMG_0380.jpg

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IMG_0340.jpg


While waiting on sourcing a new control arm I thought it would be a good idea to do the Right Rear rotor, boy was I mistaken! Everything came off as one piece just like when I did the left side.
IMG_0383.jpg

IMG_0386.jpg

IMG_0459.jpg


Sweet Trailing arm Connecting Rod
IMG_0460.jpg

IMG_0390.jpg


Fixed
IMG_0463.jpg


The bad Right Front Caliper - rust just sort of fell out of the piston /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
IMG_0468.jpg


89' Amber turn signals in place
IMG_0466-1.jpg


JDM Front Bumper - chrome trim slot is filled in, can't even tell the trim belongs anywhere
IMG_0551.jpg


with Yellow projectors installed in fog light housing
IMG_0697.jpg


I had a Evo3 16g at one point, but for whatever reason it seized up and this was the result
IMG_0824.jpg

IMG_0828.jpg

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IMG_0833.jpg




Parking lot maintenance FTW
IMG_0889.jpg

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Catch can Had been relocated to where the Charcoal canister was located.
IMG_0893.jpg


This is how much was cut off from the original bumper core
IMG_0988.jpg


JDM Bumper painted
IMG_0972-1.jpg


Gauge placement
IMG_1055.jpg


This is the only time the car was ever sitting on jackstands and it wasn't even enough time to qualify for JSB.
IMG_0895.jpg

IMG_0897.jpg


JDM Bumper and Fogs installed. I wired the inner fogs to the parking Lights and the projectors to the stock switch
IMG_1051.jpg



Pretty sure to do my front rotors I'm going to have to do replace the front hubs. After doing the rears and underestimating the rust, it will be easier just to replace the front hubs altogether. When I replaced the right front caliper, it was just the caliper that got replaced, the bracket bolts had no intention wanting to come off and I didn't feel like snapping bolts off. This is my Daily for now, so when it requires down time I make sure I take the time off to do the job and have new parts and bolts ready to go on immediately.

In the long run for Horsepower goals I'm only looking towards 400hp and that's still a ways off for me I got more maintenance to do first and get a hold of another block to build. I'll try to keep this upgraded.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Lonewolf64

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
1,197
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
It's nice to see 1350 running strong! Are you still in the VA area? Maybe we should have a little go kart repeat this January?
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
so in light of earlier tonight trying to make it down to the South end of the state for a meet, I had the lucky of 1350 deciding it didn't want to go an hour into my venture. Possibilities is it is either A)The alternator crapped out, but I was still able to crank it over twice and drive the car to a safer spot in a shopping center parking lot than on the shoulder, or B)The battery had was just too low on life and couldn't maintain a charge. Now is it possible for the latter to happen? I was having some weird voltage issues the day prior, sometimes it would sit at 13.8v at operating temp, 15 minutes later is would be at 11.0v and my idle would sit just above 500rpms floating. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

On the good side of things, I am able to source the first and last sections of a rust free driveshaft, manual rack, and external oil cooler for my 90 OFH that arrived the other day, thanks again Ed(BluFalcon).
 

NateCrisman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Chances are the alt took a dumb, that's extremely common. Far more common than a battery failure, especially if the alt was ever the recipient of a power steering leak.
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
That's what I was thinking, just wanted to look into every possibility, I just got it rebuilt in May/June timeframe. I don't have to worry about a powersteering leak, I haven't had that since about a month after owning the car, caps on the 4ws lines started leaking. It will be fixed soon.
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
My Scoobie alternator arrived today and in the midst of installing it right now, only got a couple more things to do then I'm done. A big thanks goes to Curtis and his Awesome fab work yet again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
pulley.jpg

pulley2.jpg

pulley3.jpg

pulley4.jpg

pulleydone.jpg

pulleydone3.jpg
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
All finished up, allowed the car to warm up, then logged the volts at idle. Before I would see about 13.1-12.9 @ idle and if I turned my headlights on and had both fogs on it would drop to 12.1-11.5. Everything seemed to be running great until I noticed some oil under the car.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I still think it's partially my OFH blowing it out on the road, but tonight at idle, I'm thinking it is the Oil Pump starting to go. I had a nice small puddle residing by the Crank pulley, looked at the pulley and I could watch it drip off the pulley about every ~10secs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif.
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
I'm switching over to a 90' oil cooler setup, but I'll have to deal with it some more this weekend. I also have to play with my shifter linkage and get a flat fixed. I just have to take my time taking the belts off, it will be my first time by myself doing the timing belt(done about 10k ago) while I'm down there.
 

Whoodoo

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Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
Hmmmm. I've been putting off doing my t-belt... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Guess I'm a little wary about screwing something up. The old camaro was much much easier to work on, not that these are terrible, but that pushrod V6 was bulletproof.

I've been playing with my shifter a lot lately, what's wrong with yours?
 

Just saw this awesome job thanks for not killing another just becuase of rust! keep us updated.



Jesse
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Quoting Whoodoo:

I've been playing with my shifter a lot lately, what's wrong with yours?


Just the No 5th and Reverse woes(I've done my searching and bookmarking /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif), Things to do tomorrow consist of pulling the End Case off cover off to check for any looseness and installing skate bearings on the linkage side. Also be adjusting the linkage as well.

The bushing closest to the motor was pretty narly and the outer is perfectly fine.
Here's the bushing, the center bushing that is suppose to be on there is still attached to the car.
IMG_1233.jpg
 

Polish

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,936
Location
NE, IN
Amazing the amount of work you've put into this thing. It's looking good man. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

raptorWagon

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Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Thanks guys, I'm waiting on the water line delete plugs to arrive before I go ahead and install NT water pipe. I believe I'll be able to adjust the Scoobie Alternator positioning a little bit more once the line from the water pipe to the OFH is gone.
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Figure I could update this..
Got some vacation coming next week that is devoted just to 1350, so far this is what I have on my to do list

Reseal Oilpan - since I need to drop the transfer case for this, now will be better than ever to find out what the spline count is.
Install 90 OFH and cooler
If I can get a hold of 4 lug front hubs/spindles, then I will swap those out.
Install the E-brake cables I have put off for so long.
Install NT Waterpipe
Block off water lines to turbo
Complete the Non ABS Conversion, rid the car of the pos lawn mower motor. I need to talk to call Paul(thedsmguy) for the non ABS lines and prop valve
Q45 Master Cylinder upgrade
Fix any other leaks I may have
Replace rear wheel bearings.
 

Great job so far, tackling that kind of rust is a bitch, I know this.

What is that old car with round lights, looks like a ford or bentley, rolls...?
 
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