price?

if i was home right now id buy this...my gvr4 got towed with about 3500 in parts inside. said its cuz it had a flat tire. it didnt have a title so i had no way of getting it out of impound i only paid 460 for the car but all the parts inside is what i was upset about. parts for my golf, srt4...

welcome to the forum bro. i do agree white is the fastest im over at camp victory right now stationed with the knuckle draggers lol. im an engineer over in CE. since i just got her i dont do sh*t at work lol i surf the net and ebay and play xbox in the morale room lol

maybe they are the same. i seem to remember them being shaped different but i havent looked at one in about 4 months so...ya

i have a prosport boost and elec oil psi guage and both work perfectly fine. they show up white during the day and when i turn on my headlights they go orange. the only problem is if i turn on my wipers they go back white...but i never drive my boosted car in the rain anyway cuz in VA thats just...

hmm...i had a gsr so maybe it was different for the fwd and awd cars...

the gsr is not that bad of a ride. mine lasted quite a while for how much i paid for it. the 91 come with 145 to the crank if i remember correctly and they are very much underrated for what they are. its the same motor/drivetrain as the eclipse/talon etc...but nobody expects it cz its a grocery...

they are close but not quite the same. the plugs that go into the ecu r different so the holes are a different shape. im sure it can be made to fit but iirc they arent precisely the same. terry would be the main guy to answer i suppose...he deals with more ecus than anyone lol

dont forget the alternator either...i had this problem for a while when i had my stereo turned up a litle too loud and hit the brakes the car would shut down. the engine would still run but everything would come back on right away. turned out my alt was bad.

u took the comment out of context...the rest of the comment is "that you are looking for" yes it can be a quick spooling turbo, but for what this guy is after (if i understand everything right) a 20g will not be what he wants.

also you have to realize that bigger turbos incorporate more lag. a 20g will not be a "fast spooling turbo" that you want. though it will push an assload of psi. you just have to have good enough supporting mods to get the revs required to get that psi

ive read that going from the oil filter housing can get u bad oil into ur turbo. by "bad" im not sure what it meant but thats what i read...in a book, not dar intarwebz

also you could have the springs in there kinda weird. i know when i changed out my front springs/shocks it was kinda a bitch to get the springs to sit right on the top perches. just check to make sure your springs are sitting correctly. it may not be that the drivers side is too low..it might be...

actually having a larger housing can be less beneficial than you think. with more space in there but the same size wheel there is more space for the exhuast gases to just pass by instead of actually pushing the wheel. im not saying it wont benefit at all becuase with a larger volume housing...

very true^^ when i first got into vr4's and the 4g63 engine, i wanted a GIANT turbo for all kinds of power, and now that i have done research it is more beneficial just to get a E16g or something similar. build boost faster and keep it steady longer. big turbos have MASSIVE lag and msot engines...

the guy i bought my vr4 from had 3...thats right 3. the one i bought wasnt running and has basic mods (exhaust and an afc) and one he already had i think he said like 7 grand in the engine alone. he had another one over in richmond but no specifics on it. basically this post is just to say that...

i agree. if u r rebuilding u might as well get the good stuff. i have read that the mitsu MLS gasket is good for up to like 350 hp tho.

so this hasn't been updated in forever. had a run of bad luck. first with wrecking my GSR (so sad just sold the engine today) and then the car i had to buy as a DD. 1989 Honda Accord LXi. thing is more of a POS than my galant lol. anyway got some pics after i removed the exhaust manifold. i...

well these 400 whp numbers are just my starting numbers, its not stopping there. my engine will be built to handle somewhere closer to 600 i hope and then once i get the engine built i will start working on the turbo aspect of it, along with all the other things. i just wanna get the internals...

ok so for internals i need rods, pistons, bolts...thats basically it right? then im thinkin ACT for a clutch cuz ive heard good things, any other reputable brands to go with? as for the tranny what do i need to do with that?

ok would getting revised lifters be a better/cheaper way to go than getting some straight aftermarket ones? whats the reasoning behind the evo cams not working? just too big or somethin?

the plan has been from the beginning to get rods and pistons, so getting the block bored and honed is a must. and good lookin out on the HKS cams. i actually know a guy that was tryin to sell a set of 280s for like 200-250 about a month ago. talking about the labor cost on the clutch...planned...

Quoting RvlutionMtrsport: Call JNZ tuning (or pretty much any DSM shop) and buy: 1991 Galant VR4 Complete Engine Gasket Kit Timing Belt Balance shaft Belt or bs shaft delete kit Hydraulic tensioner Tensioner pulley Water Pump rod and main bearings You might need pistons and rings if you're...

so i started really tearing into my vr4 on tuesday. found out that my stock turbo is pretty much toast. the car was running REALLY lean and the inside of the turbo inlet is caked white and is cracked all over. i have another turbo already i am going to put in it, but since i am already planning...

ive got the spoiler from my GSR laying around. i will sell it cheap and u can just look up the color code somewhere. sound like a deal? loli used ot have a couple grills lying around, but now i only have two, one is being hung on my wall as a reminder of my wreck in my GSR the other has to go...

u need to find urself a better grill too lol. that way u can at least pretend to be a true mitsu instead of an eagle

dude if u r that hard up for it i will overnight u a fwd DOHC ecu and motor mount if u pay the shipping. i know u said u r over budget already, but these are going to be free. i would like to get them back once you get the ones you ordered, or at least find someone to get them for you. basically...

i do hope that you snagged some oem tensioners and such...the kit i got from extremepsi.com had the oem mitsu belt, timing belt tensioner, balance shaft belt and tensioner and a couple other little things and it was all like 220. i dont know the exchange rate, but from what i have learned...ur...

definitely agree. a new timing belt is a must. hell for that matter all belts. since the car is out you could think about doing the BSEK too. just so its easier. water pump is also a good plan.

good ole cr up to his normal antics lol. sounds like you got yourself a polan, now just buy it and install it. someone mentioned that extremepsi has the fuel rail adaptor, its like 7 bucks. and they also sell the clamps to mount the fuel line on the underbody.

ok i didnt finish reading this thread after the first few posts cuz i just got excited. 1st of all...since when is any galant a DSM...i say this because my thoughts were that if a mitsu had an eagle/plymouth counterpart that it was DSM. i guess it was just the base model galants then? next, i...

this is what i got i had to replace the filter to rail line anyway so i went ahead and got the nice filter with it too. of course it was on sale when i bought it so i spent a few bux less than it sells for right now. like RM said...if you plan to run at high performance you might as well just...

i helped raptorreed install an ETS kit. those thigns are siqqqq. if u got the dough man definitely go ETS. so secksy

Quoting prove_it: I know how to drive. I used to drift my accord, no e brake.i have drifted the GSR around corners going about 80 with no ebrake...hella fun, but i wouldnt recommend it as it is NOT safe in a FWD car. i did it inadvertantly and ended up in a curb, bent control arms, drivers...

i had a caliper stick in another car i owned. i know it isnt that. is way to noticeable to be that lol. i will check the wear on them and see whats up. also i know it isnt the rear because i hear the noise up front. kinda a scratching. sometimes the wheel kinda moves from side to side but never...

just for that pic this almost belongs in how to. i will most definitely be using that soon. my front brakes are acting funny as well.

i get what ur sayin lol. i will check it out when i get home.

starting yesterday while i was driving around town, i noticed that my brakes are acting kinda funny. if i really jam on them nothing funny happens i jsut stop faster, but if i am rolling to a stop (like at a light or a stopp sign) and lightly press my brakes, sometimes i get kinda a scratchy...

this is the one i was planning on getting.its on ebay but it looks pretty sturdy to me

no 93s, but i found an 89. it has a full interior and full motor. SOHC automatic. i was gonna go back when i had some more time and money and grab the under dash piece with pocket, the manual seat belt conversion stuff, and the center console (it has that cool double flip up thing for the cup...

so just an update. my buddy is rebuilding his talon and he has some good used itnernals he is giving me. rods/pistons/cams. they all only have about 300 miles on them. he is doing a 1000hp build for some god awful reason. im headed to pick and pull today to see if i cant find some stuff for...

although a CF lip would be killer sweet, i think boostx is right, a urethane lip would be more forgiving to curbs/speedbumps/potholes etc. i know i have to go over 3 speedbumps to get to my apt and if i bought a CF lip and it got cracked with me going over a speed bump i would be livid!

Quoting raptorreed: remove the ps pump, it will give you more room to work with. I carefully played a game of 4g63 tetris and got it out.tetris lol...most things ive come across in the stock engine bay you have to paly a little to get it in our out. when i did the belt i had to raise and...

ive spent time on the side of the road with DSM guys. the def have a different mindset. one guy his alternator came undone somehow cuz the bolt sheared off. he was like...f*** it ill just have to drive on striaght battery to get it home..im like...are u effing serious lemme see those tools. i...

absolutely awesome vc...i know this is about the intake but DAYUM...how did u get the number on ur valve cover like that? is it raised like where the 2000 is and stuff or just painted on?

ive checked jnz. and unless the search function on that site is a wacky as on here then i couldnt find them

my brother cut his springs on a prelude he used to have. not only did the ride comfort suffer, his shocks got TORCHED. having shorter springs on stock shocks is a no go. plus there is never a guarantee that you are cutting them *exactly* the same. also, almost all springs i have ever seen have a...

just recently i had a shifter cable slip off the bushing. i have it basically "tied" to the linkage right now with an extra hood latch cable i had lying around. its ghetto as hell...WHERE DID U GET SHIFTER CABLES FROM I CANT FIND THEM ANYWHERE

set of sockets set of wrenches LED light i can attach to my head so i dont have to hold a flashlight mallet screwdrivers extra lug nuts 2 jacks (bottle jack and hydraulic jack electrical tape wd40

at first i saw it and i was like "wtf is that" then i realized how AMAZINGLY AWESOME IT IS...i can haz?