gaskets/rebuild suggestions

[91GSR]

so i started really tearing into my vr4 on tuesday. found out that my stock turbo is pretty much toast. the car was running REALLY lean and the inside of the turbo inlet is caked white and is cracked all over. i have another turbo already i am going to put in it, but since i am already planning on replacing the ex manifold and all the turbo stuff i am thinkin i will just do a full rebuild. basically im wondering what kinda gaskets people have used with good results, and what kinds to stay away from. if anyone has specific suggestions of what and where they bought it that would be awesome. also when doing a rebuild, what kinda stuff is reusable and what will obviously need to be replaced. i know all gaskets...hence that question...but what other stuff should i go for? TIA guys.

 

Call JNZ tuning (or pretty much any DSM shop) and buy:
1991 Galant VR4 Complete Engine Gasket Kit
Timing Belt
Balance shaft Belt or bs shaft delete kit
Hydraulic tensioner
Tensioner pulley
Water Pump
rod and main bearings
You might need pistons and rings if you're doing full rebuild.
I would also buy a new set of stainless valves for the head and new bronze guides. The engine gasket kit will have valve guide seals. Get a valve job, r&r the guides, resurface and clean.
I'd use better than stock gaskets on the hot parts (manifold, turbo, o2 housing).
RRE has really good ones. 4 layer manifold - head copper gasket, thick stainless 7cm turbo - manifold gasket, stainless turbo - o2 housing gasket, new o2 housing to down pipe as well. You might want a new front o2 sensor too. I'd also inspect the knock sensor and make sure it's good. If you have any plans to make a good amount of power I'd probably get a set of ARP head studs to put it back together with. Depending on your end goals, you might want to do the mains as well.
I always stick to Mitsubishi parts.

 

[CarRacer]

When I put new rings and bearings in my motor, I bought a gasket kit, rings and bearings from Parts Dinosaur. I bought my timing stuff, Mitsu MLS head gasket and ARP head studs from Modern Automotive Performance. I had my head reconditioned at a local machine shop. I only had the valves lapped, but new valves aren't a bad idea. Look into some low mileage ones from an Evo 8/9. They are an upgrade and not as much as some badass stainless ones. I reused my rotating assembly but if I did it again, I'd bore the block .020 over and run a 2g/1g piston and rod combo. Be sure to have the head and block surfaces machined if using a MLS. It's not as forgiving as a composite head gasket.

I'd be prepared to dump at least $1000 into it to get the job done.

 

[Gimpin]

I just ordered a gasket kit from click for the sexpo ... It was the cheapest of anybody I found and they shipped quickly. Keep in mind this if for a stock rebuild on a non-performance vehicle

 

[91GSR]

Quoting RvlutionMtrsport:
Call JNZ tuning (or pretty much any DSM shop) and buy:
1991 Galant VR4 Complete Engine Gasket Kit
Timing Belt
Balance shaft Belt or bs shaft delete kit
Hydraulic tensioner
Tensioner pulley
Water Pump
rod and main bearings
You might need pistons and rings if you're doing full rebuild.
I would also buy a new set of stainless valves for the head and new bronze guides. The engine gasket kit will have valve guide seals. Get a valve job, r&r the guides, resurface and clean.
I'd use better than stock gaskets on the hot parts (manifold, turbo, o2 housing).
RRE has really good ones. 4 layer manifold - head copper gasket, thick stainless 7cm turbo - manifold gasket, stainless turbo - o2 housing gasket, new o2 housing to down pipe as well. You might want a new front o2 sensor too. I'd also inspect the knock sensor and make sure it's good. If you have any plans to make a good amount of power I'd probably get a set of ARP head studs to put it back together with. Depending on your end goals, you might want to do the mains as well.
I always stick to Mitsubishi parts.



i already have a lot of this stuff so i guess i'm more on my way than i thought. my initial goals are around 400 whp after the rebuild and some more bolt ons. while i am rebuilding i want to go ahead and get the pistons and rods i want, as well as boring the head out. most likely gonna go .020 over. have water pump, all mitsu OEM timing parts, BSEK, and i plan on buying one of the 7cm stainless turbo gaskets from extremepsi.com. they are only like 12 bucks. if u know where to get one cheaper lemme know. as for a full rebuild gasket kit i have found one from cometic and one from fel-pro. the cometis has good turbo gasket parts, but is missing a few things i will have to buy seperately (ie the half moon plug and the spark plug tube gaskets) plus it doesnt come with a head gasket. also CR, you say that i should plan on spending about a grand, huh? well my plans were more like 2500 or more...after the machining and the parts and everything i don't see any reasonn it is going to cost less. also one more question. i have been thinkin about cams lately too. figure if i am rebuilding, might as well get everything i want at once and not have to tear it apart again ya know. what is a good company? i have heard good things about BC but there are a few other brands out there, some cheaper some more expensive, just looking for some personal experiences to go off of. thanks everyone.

 

[GVR4_1057]

Get the half moon plug for the EVO VIII. They are the aluminum ones that are waaaaaaayyyyyy nicer.

 

[CarRacer]

My guesstimate of $1000 was based on reusing the rotating assembly. If you plan on buying new pistons and rods that will add considerably to the cost. I'd leave the cams alone for now and spend that money on a flywheel and clutch. You can change cams while the engine is in the car without too much hassle.

 

Honestly I stay away from all engine gasket kits unless they are Mitsu, especially if you're shooting for 400whp. FYI, you don't bore the head /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif If you get new pistons the block will need to be bored and honed (preferably with a torque plate). If you don't have rods/pistons yet just give me a shout and I'll hook you up with those. BC cams are ok, but I would rater run a good used set of HKS cams. I too would replace the clutch before I do the cams. The labor alone on the clutch job will pay for the cams. I'd use ARP head studs and a Mitsu MLS head gasket for your rebuild. Oh, and a new set of lifters for your head if I didn't mention that already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[91GSR]

the plan has been from the beginning to get rods and pistons, so getting the block bored and honed is a must. and good lookin out on the HKS cams. i actually know a guy that was tryin to sell a set of 280s for like 200-250 about a month ago. talking about the labor cost on the clutch...planned on doing it myself. i changed the clutch in my GSR ith just the help of one other guy, i think now with the knowledge of doing it, with the help of a buddy for just brute strength i should be good. i had already planned on getting ARP bolts/studs for the entire engine, already have the manifold studs and turbo bolts from them. speaking of lifters...the whole head is going to be redone, lifters, valves, springs, retainers, valve guides, everything. just need some guidance on that as well. i know basically what they are and what they do, but whats with the .5 over and 1 over and stuff. what are the advantages/disadvantage of bigger valves? also what are "revised lifters"? ive heard this term used a lot and never really knew what it meant. thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it. and RM i will most likely be grabbing that gasket set from JNZ..its a little pricey but i will save up for it.

EDIT: just looking thru the for sale sections and remembered i have one more question. what about evo cams? are they just drop in and go type stuff and what are the power advantages? are they comparable to an HKS or BC upgrade for the vr4?

 

[CarRacer]

Evo cams won't work. Revised lifters have a larger oil hole at the top and side that lets more oil flow around.

 

[91GSR]

ok would getting revised lifters be a better/cheaper way to go than getting some straight aftermarket ones? whats the reasoning behind the evo cams not working? just too big or somethin?

 

[CarRacer]

Timing stuff is all on the wrong side on Evo stuff and the CAS is different. I don't really remember the specifics from old threads, but I know they don't work.

Revised lifters are better, but I just cleaned mine that were in the car. You can replace them when you upgrade the cams later on. I'd spend your money on the internals, clutch, and tranny to support your power goals.

 

[91GSR]

ok so for internals i need rods, pistons, bolts...thats basically it right? then im thinkin ACT for a clutch cuz ive heard good things, any other reputable brands to go with? as for the tranny what do i need to do with that?

 

[CarRacer]

I'm not the expert here, but I think your goals are attainable without needing to do rod and main bolt upgrades. That will add a bit to your part and machining cost. I think some aftermarket rods come with ARPs, but I'm not sure.

I'm running a fidanza flywheel and clutch right now and I'm pretty happy. I haven't abused the clutch yet, so it's not a very extensive review but I'm satisfied so far. The price is right too.

As far as the transmission goes, is yours stock? I'd at least get it rebuilt at minimum. You'd probably want to consider a 4 spider.

 

[91GSR]

well these 400 whp numbers are just my starting numbers, its not stopping there. my engine will be built to handle somewhere closer to 600 i hope and then once i get the engine built i will start working on the turbo aspect of it, along with all the other things. i just wanna get the internals done once and not have to worry about tearing it down again and again every time i want more horsepower. thanks for all ur help cr