I've used Noel at Mossrax in Wellington before. Again not very close, but in the right island at least!I did my last one myself though. If you have access to a press and suitable measuring tools it's not particularly difficult, just time consuming making sure the pre-load/endfloat is...

They'll almost certainly have witness marks on the underside which make it clear which way round they go.

Not on the vr4, but I once pulled a gearbox out of a rotary converted Mitsi L200 pick-up that had twisted the input shaft enough that I had to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel (through the inspection hole) to get the box off!

The didn't tick when they were new.I soaked mine overnight and cleaned them thouroughly and they never ticked again.

Keep the stock heatsheild around the turbo/dump pipe (or make a new one) and you'll not need to replace the alternator so frequently.I did 4 in 8 years before I figured this out

Bolt the spoiler to the inside of the boot lid?

If you disconnect one of the two torsion bars it will just pop up an inch or so when you open it.However you will need some way to prop it fully open so it doesn't drop on your head.

1/2" gap seems excessive, but if you shift the skirt over a bit you'll have an 1/8" gap at each end, which isn't too noticable (probably close to what they have stock, they certainly aren't totally flush from the factory).

Quoting mitsuturbo: WHOA! I totally missed that he's mentioned 235/40 on EIGHTEEN inch wheels..Yeah, that would be a good size for 17's, but for 18's i can see why it's not fitting very well.235/40/18's are pretty tall, but that's what I had on my mine (on 18x9 +30) and the only rubbing...

Good point, I'd assumed he was going to use pins at the front, but still wanted to use the hinges at the rear, rather than having a pin at each corner and having to remove the hood completely.Aero catches are a great idea, and you can get lockable ones too (I had to resort to using a padlock...

Assuming you don't want nuts/bolts sticking right through you will need to glass in some metal plates with drilled and tapped holes to bolt the hinges to (from the looks of things you will need a spacer between the hood and the hinge anyway, so you may as well attatch it to the hood and use it...

The fan setups in recent Audi's are pretty slim, about half as deep as the stock fan, and have a better blade design than most aftermarket slinline fans I've seen.Most newer cars probably run similar fans with shrouds on a radiator of similar size to the gvr4 one. It's what I'd be looking...

Nah, that was RedTwo's zr4 I think.Mine was 3-bolt rs with re-drilled hubs (hence the large number of broken axles).

I can't quite understand why anyone would want to steal it - it'd sat in a paddock for 14 months so was looking pretty sad, (I only convinced it to run again two weeks ago) and there's nothing on it aside from the wheels thats worth much money.Anyhow, seeing as this is a picture thread, here's...

Yup, locked garage, locked and alarmed car with steering wheel removed and a starter thats on the way out and needs smacking with a hammer before it'll work.No plates on it either as i wasn't planning on using it on the street again anytime soon.Guessing they must have towed it.

Rather less cheerful update from me:Car was stolen from my locked garage last night...

If anyone has a rear subframe lying around and could take a few measurments for me that'd be much appreciated.Specifically the distance between the front mounts left to right (centres) and the rear mounts left - right and also the diagonals (front left to rear right and vice versa).Thanks in...

You need to remove the corner trim piece, there's 2 or 3 screws on the back of the door (possibly obscured by the rubber seal?) it comes out with the rail the glass slides in. Window full down, remove the screws then push the corner trim piece towards the front of the car and up, it may take a...

Saw one of those wings on a budget spec eterna the other day, quite tempted to find one and stick it on my vr...

^^Agree on the stock internals being more than upto the task.A big 16g on 15psi will make 255whp with basic supporting mods, run more boost and over 300whp is possible.

From the homologation papers:Oct 87 - Mar 88: 6,651 Sept 89 - Mar 90: 5,456 Sept 90 - May 91: 5,097This is only E39A Galant vr4's, so RS's, and eterna zr4's would be in addition to these numbers (pretty sure export spec vr4's such as those that went to America and Australia would also be...

Quoting turbowop: Quoting fuel: mildly stretched tyres do indeed help with stiffening up the sidewall of a tyre and prevents the tyre rolling over on itself in heavy cornering. Have close look at F1 and most race cars - you will indeed find that the rim width is wider than the tyre bead itself...

Agree with the above, with 17's you can't get the rim close enough to the fender before the suspension fouls the chassis.

I've actually got 18"x9" wide rims on my gvr4, +30 offset just clears the trailing arms in the rear, +45 will not clear.Have made plenty of posts about it with pics etc.

I did the above but cut my own 'C' shaped washers out of 5mm steel plate, made them an interference fit and welded them aswell for good luck.

No flares.205's + Camber + Lower = win.

They've probably all been exported to NewZealand by now

Depending what tyres you want to run they'll probably fit.I've got 18" x 9" +30's with 235/40/18's on mine, took a bit of work, but if you go for a tyre with a smaller overall diameter it would lessen the work needed quite a bit.Pics of my car are floating around this forum.

Yup, that'd do it. Doesn't look as bad as mine though - dug up some old pics for comparison.Each of those 3 cracks in the manifold was big enough to see daylight through, ditto the one in the side of the turbine housing.

Had very similar symptoms when my 14b failed many years ago, turned out the exhaust housing was severly cracked in several places (including a chunk missing from beside the wastegate hole pretty much doubling it's size), a crack in the centre housing resulting in the turbine wheel contacting...

Yessir it's factory (it's on the 3 as well, just hidden behind the hump in that pic)

215/40's (12mm smaller diameter than stock) or 215/45's (10mm greater diamter than stock) though a 205/45 is closest to stock dia.A 225/45 (20mm greater dia than stock) or 235/45 (over 30mm greater dia than stock) are too big imo.

linkThey'll poke out 15mm more than my RS-Evolutions did, so will be okay, with a little negative camber on the front they'll be perfect.

Any body running into clearance issues using arms which are straight rather than curved like the stock items?I'm actually in need of more curve than stock (or a c-notched chassis rail) as they're too close for my liking.

I won a bunch of Meguiars stuff a few years ago, so that's what I use on the odd occasions I bother to clean the car. When it does get cleaned it gets a thorough job though, probably the main reason it doesn't get done very often, lifes too short to spend the best part of a day cleaning a car...

Quoting brunoboy: i was thinking all in all that i would just get gvr4 specific because i dont want to drill into the car. Thanks for all the info and help though. its much appreciated. -ShaneNo problem, it makes sense not to drill holes in the car unless you have to.

Pull the compressor cover off and measure the wheel, a 68mm exducer is a big16G (Evo 3 16g's have the same dia exducer but the wheel is different, thinner/differently shaped blades).Also as per my other post in this thread, RS's came in 3 different specs, depending when they were manufactured...

Quoting brunoboy: does that one bolt hole that i see you drilled, touch the stock bolt hole on the side?Yes it is a siamese or conjoined hole now, is that likely to cause a problem in the future?

Quoting brunoboy: If I ever went full coils would you be able to still use the stock holes?Yes.

Quoting curtis: ^What brand plates are those?Cusco plates from an Evo 5.I didn't use the existing outside hole as the plate wouldn't sit at the right angle for the camber slide to be perpendicular to the centreline of the vehicle, so adjusting the camber would've affected the caster as...

I used a corded drill and ordinary high speed steel bits. The metal is about 3mm thick, so it's pretty easy to drill through, I started with a small bit (4 or 5mm I think) and then re-drilled with a larger bit to finish.Just make sure you measure and mark (and centre punch) the holes...

Whether they clear of not is all down to the shape of the spokes, not the offset.

Wheels will depend on the offset and tyre size. I've got 18x9 +30 wheels on mine, with 235/40's, had to roll the front guards a bit, and trim the rear under the dog-leg and rear bumper. It's really low though, around 290mm from hub centre to guard lip from memory.As for the 3-bolt lsd, the...

From the factory none of them had 450's AND a 16G turbo, most likely the turbo has been replaced by a previous owner.Pre 89.10 vr4's had 14b's and 450's making 205hp Pre 90.10 vr4's had 14b's and 450's making 220hp Post 90.10 vr4's had 16g's and 510's making 240hpRS's had the same turbo and...

Quoting RedTwo: It's super easy and all you need is a 17mm socket! Get a second gearbox and remove the driveline parts that give power to the front wheels and weld up front axle holes. Weld up the center differential, which is a good thing to do if you plan on drag racing too. Weld up the...

Quoting Beaner:Quoting H05TYL: (ended up throwing them away and finding some nolathane ones to fit instead)Any more info on this? I was trying to install my evo setup and everything was fine until popping off the rear shocks. The rubber ripped out of the metal sleeve, basically stopping...

I'm not convinced you could weld them properly without destroying the rubber bushes.When we did mine we removed the bushes (ended up throwing them away and finding some nolathane ones to fit instead)Here's a pic minus the bushes.This is obviously the lower mount from a coilover with the...

Quoting Vr4_Evo: Nice car mate but there are several reasons as the why I believe that's not a real Monte Carlo.1. All Monte Carlo's came standard with a sunroof. 2. Monte Carlo's never had the lights on the front fender's. 3. The stickers on the rear door are positioned incorrectly. Way too...

No sarcasm, I noticed the fake leather and stuff, but on the whole it looks much tidier than many I've seen (I think the further north you go the more beaten up they get).

Some people like to pretend that vr4's actually handle well to begin with. Or maybe it's that it's hard to show off you sweet fitment when the car is on jackstands?18x9 +30 with 235/40's fits with a bit of a roll/pull. There's plenty of pics of my car with this setup scattered around this...