Sold

Still available. I guess I could get pics, but it looks exactly like new.

125 shipped.

I didn't but I was running SD with tunerpro. I have a 3bar map sensor I could sell with this if someone was interested in going this.route.

Offers?

Sold

Used but in great shape. $140 shipped.

I'm packing up lots of stuff tonight and could easily have these shipped out tomorrow. Make offer.

Still got these.

Price too high?

Quoting MellowVR4: Cool Andy, we will be in touch because I do wanna get it taken care of. Do you still have the same phone number?Yes, same number. I'll order up more chips so I'll have them when you're ready.

Quoting MellowVR4: +1^ On this subject. I have a 750cc keydiver chip that one pin busted off. I was gona take it to some one that works with small electronics and see if they can do this type of repair.I can copy and reburn chips.

For sale is 4 FIC 850cc injectors. Came out of my car and worked great. One has a small melted spot (pictured) but never caused an issue. I think someone got a little too close with a soldering gun.$135 shipped CONUS paid with paypal.

I have a like new Fuelab fuel pressure regulator for sale. It is red and only was used for about $300 miles. I bought this new from MAP. It comes with a liquid filled summit racing white face gauge and two -6 fittings. I probably still have the box somewhere too if you need it. Asking $135...

Its all in the VE map. The more time you take to tune the VE map correctly, the better your results will be compared to a maf.

Everywhere

Not much is going to transfer over. The megasquirt and stock ecu do things a little bit differently.

Pinouts are the same.

I think an evo is around 38-39psi. The trims are almost spot on though. You don't have a lean spot if you WOT, only at partial throttle? I'm thinking this has more to do with the physical setup instead of tuning. At partial throttle, your BOV is probably cracking open. Maybe some weird flow...

Whats your fuel pressure and injector latency?

Sorry, everything has been sold.

I can make chips.

Quoting 123abc: Seems like a waste of money to me but will agree it looks nice. Only took how many years for those flashy Honda style aftermarket mounts were available for our cars.Hondas do motor swaps and need different mounts all the time. Galant's have the 4g63, no need to swap there

When remove the nuts on a mani thats been there a while, the stud usually comes with the nut. At that point, whats the difference?

click

You can use a multimeter to check for continuity when the button is pressed. If you need, I could check one of the switches I have laying around. I wouldn't be able to do that until Sunday though.

clickIf you want legit wheels at an affordable price, I would suggest this site. Get at least an 8in wide, otherwise there is really no point in getting pricey wheels.

Well I just bought an sc300 but it has HIDs go figure. Anyways, thats a decent deal. Free bump.

How did it look? Pattern ok from that housing? I might be interested in putting these in a sc300.

Was this in your sc300?

You'll be fine at 14psi. As for the maps, they lock on the last load value. If you exceed to range of the map, it stays on the highest value of the map. Fuel cut is what will get you, which is unrelated to the maps.

I get your point, but if we are going to give out information it might as well be as accurate as possible right?

Quoting turbowop: AFM = air flow meter MAF/MAS/MAFS = mass air flow sensor (same thing as an AFM)Technically an AFM and a MAS/MAS isn't the same. An AFM is a flap door or similar often found on old toyotas and many other vehicles. Its true they both do the same thing, but the term...

Then he should get a bigger or thicker core. A lot of people have success but if its not doing its job, its not doing its job.

I vote neither. Any ducting like that will likely create a high pressure area before the radiator. That high pressure area will cause air to go under your car, not through it. If you have a cooling problem, you need to find the real problem. Ducting would just be a bandaid IMO.

Might be a CAS pooping out.

Chuck it.

People buy that because wires scare them.

Thanks CarRacer. Actually, you might be able to get the tach to read right by splicing into two coils and using diodes to prevent them from cross feeding each other. I also had a problem with the 5v signal because the factory tach in my car (non-mitsu as well) was looking for 20v. I believe...

Any update? I'm currently working on a similar problem.

I have been experiencing similar issues with my custom wiring harness. My knock sensor has been consistently receiving interference from the CAS. I am using shielded wire, however I'm getting an almost perfect square wave from the hall-effect sensor. It counts up in steps as the knock total...

I usually face both surfaces and use a piece of .030 stainless sheet as a gasket. No problems yet.

Quoting curtis: Install of a garrett turbo tach plus alot of cool parts for a rotary click meThats a budget build? I might as well be warming my hands over a burning trash can.Amazing work, no less.

Yes, I have had this exact issue. You still have a bum injector in there. Keep swapping it out, chance are a whole set of four are dying.

Quoting Diego: That is what they call the " hall effect" clickSwitch from the Green top CAS to a Black top and call it a day.I'm not sure I understand your suggestion. I feel his problem is unrelated to if the cas is optical or hall effect.

Galant vr4's do have an egr. Pin 15 is for Cali models with a egr temp sensor I believe. You can pop any unused wire and terminal for the ecu plugs and place it there. If a/c is removed, I suggest using one of those wires. If you don't have any you can take from the harness, let me know. I...

I have a 1990 eprom.

Or I'll sell the 1990 outright for 150 plus shipping. I found a 91 ecu and I need that exact amount for it. Looking for a quick sale if possible.

I have a factory new 1990 eprom ecu that has been socketed that I'm looking to trade for a mint 91-94 eprom ecu. This is a good chance for you 1990 guys to avoid a lot of wiring problems.

Quoting CarRacer: I'm trying to run an aftermarket tach and it's not receiving a signal. I'm tapping into wire 109 on the ECU and the tach doesn't move.Can I tap directly into the wire on the igniter or elsewhere to get a signal? This is for the motor swap I'm doing so there isn't a body...