Thank you, sir! Will do!

So it would make sense to jump 106 to ground? Or tie it to 101?

There's ground on 101, but not on 106. Is that weird?

the car starts, but won't run. I've put a test light on PCM connectors, and I've got no power on 102 & 107, and no ground on 106.Could someone confirm that the MPI relay is the culprit?Thanks!!!

Nile Black, in fair condition, in Boston.The good? 1) Car runs and drives, and everything works (A/C, cruise, aftermarket CD player) 2) makes boost, 3) seats are in very good condition (no rips or tears, and still full padding), 4) windows work, 5) moonroof works (no slide cover)...

Thank you!

Quoting strokin4dr: Are you adjusting the biss according to procedure? An do you have dsmlink on the car to see what's really happening?Yes, and no to dsmlink

:d

Quoting OldHairyBastard: Sometimes the coils are bad and they spec out to be good. My guess is that you have a lightened flywheel and this won't help with idle. Have you tried adjusting your idle air screw (BISS) to see if that can hold your idle better? All the way down might not be the...

Quoting transparentdsm: does it start right back up or does it need to cool down a bit first ? have you looked at the ECU to see if anything had burnt up ?Starts right up. Dunno how to tell if anything is burned up on the ECU

Checked the ISC, it's fine (coils show proper resistance, and the motor is moving when the key is switched to on/off) FIAV is blocked off per click BISS is adjusted all the way down.Rpms drop when the A/C is switched on, and the car is very hesitant to idle. Idles fine if the rpms are above...

Quoting GSTwithPSI:You can call be Brett. I'm just in the Mike V. fan club. It's easy to get us mixed up though. We both are very knowledgeable, and also both have the 2 sweetest Galant VR-4s ever made.Brett, nice to meet you. You can call me Betty

Mike, I appreciate the detailed explanation, and, yes, while it all makes reasonable sense, having thrown a rod (previously), and having trashed a head (on this engine), needless to say I'm more than a little wary of various little things that can (and will) go wrong on the effing DSM.That is...

'Nother words, if I turn the key over, I won't find little pieces of metal in the engine? It's not gonna karbunkle on me?Effing interference engines...

Solid tensioner is the reason I'm having this headache. The belt jumped, and I replaced the head with the one I had lying around.Now, the difference between these pics and the ones above is I realigned the tensioner pulley, installed the hydraulic tensioner, and rotated the crank 6 times...

Yep. Managed to slice a piece off a silicone hose that fit just perfectly.

I marked the back of cam sprockets so I can see easier whether they align with the top of the head.Also, is the tensioner pulley in the right position?

Seems in my haste to pull apart the engine bay (replacing the head), I've displaced the little rubber ring that goes over the turbo inlet, that allows the stock snorkel to fit properly. I remember it being a soft piece of rubber. Does anyone recall where I can find/make one? HDR? (Home Depot...

Quoting prove_it: Take pics please. More than likely your timing is right, but since you mentioned the head was replaced I'm guessing it was surfaced. IF so the marks won't be perfect as the distance between cams and crank are slightly closer causing a slight shift in the marks.Again, post...

I'll just throw this here, 'cause this seems like a newbie issue.Replacing the belt after having replaced the head. New belt, tensioner, tensioner & idler pulleys (from STM= streettunedmotorsports.com). Trying to set the timing, and I always end up half a tooth off on the crank. Borrowed a...

Prior to tightening the head, I spoke with ARP, and,I did the following : Chased the holes using a 12x1.25 tap, using "Ultra Torque" lubricant, I hand tightened the studs,using 3 steps I tightened the studs in the correct sequence to 30,60,and then 90 ft lbs. "Ultra Torque " went on stud...

Thanks, gents!

Is this correct? Studs are ARP.So, the image is upside down if I'm standing at the front of the car, right?

Yes, the oil line has been disconnected. Fuel, water, it's all off

Yep. Still got it

Right, but I can wiggle the front of the head. It's the back of the engine (pass side) that's giving me trouble

Quoting EMX5636: You can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on.Planning on it. Exhaust manifold is already off. But, I'll pull the studs tomorrow.

Okie.

Actually, that IS an issue. I was trying to remove all the washers, but some are rather stuck (they'll rotate but won't come out). I suppose I should just start unbolting the head studs...

Quoting MellowVR4: its too simple of a job to remember every step..Agreed, but the first time is almost always a f***-upStill, here's what I've got so far. The belts are off, timing belt is off, water is disconnected from every pipe, including the heater core. Spark plugs are still in...

Nope. No go. I don't think that bracket is on the car. Besides, in pics, that bracket is above the A/C. Mine seems to be stuck at the back of the engine.It's like I've forgotten a head stud, but yet I've taken all 10 head stud nuts off. I don't need to pull the head studs themselves, right...

Eureka! I'm gonna git that sucka tomorrow. Thank you!

Methinks that's what I'm missing, yet I can't seem to locate said brace.

Please, help, I'm a little stuck. Pulling the head off the engine still in the car. Got the air and fuel lines off, belts off, electrical off, head stud nuts off. The head feels like something is holding it back at the back of the engine, yet I'm somewhat stumped. I'm trying to pull it with the...

Quoting GetWrexed: Got ya, well i would definitely hate for that to happen to me so im gonna have to pass. GLWS!Indeed. That's why it's labeled "not for street use".Having spoken to http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/, they were categorical about solid tensioner being the culprit...

Because on the street my belt jumped, and the experts tell me it's because of the solid tensioner. Pricewise? I'm very flexible

In perfect, albeit not brand new shape. Going back to OEM tensioner, no longer need this.Make me an offer.

Dude. It WAS the starter. Even though Autozone checked it 15 ways to Sunday, it was making some rattling sound. I took a replacement home along with the new one, installed the new one, and right now I'm sitting in the car, car is hot, and it refires without skipping a beat. f***ing A!

Quoting prove_it: When you say it doesn't start, does it crank and sputter like it wants to start but won't, or does it just crank and no attempts to even try and run?It barely turns over like the engine is stuck or something, and it pretty much refuses to fire. If I could describe it, it...

Thank you. Unfortunately, that's exactly the sender by without the plastic housing. JNZ sells the same sender, Wyeth the same plug configuration as O'Reilly. I was hoping for a linky to the "real" one

If I'm correct, it's the part # MD069879 , OEM Coolant Temp Sensor (ECU)-1G DSM/GVR4.My issue is that even on the JNZ site, the housing doesn't match the plastic shroud on my sensor. Do I have the wrong part?

Still struggling with this issue. When the car is cold, starts fine. When it gets to temp, it won't refire. Sounds like it's struggling to turn over, but the battery is fine, sparkplugs are ok, no other visible issues apart from a very predictable fact that when the engine is hot, it absolutely...

Lol, haven't given up, just haven't had a chance to read the CEL

Thanks, bud.Not panicking or wailing for help. Just exasperated.I'll get the CEL code.

Once it cools down, it fires without an issue, but hot... Car has other multiple issues, vacuum leak, CEL, hole in the exhaust, idle surge. God help me with this car. :/

Quoting LIV4PSI: Bumper is pretty nice. There were supports left so the slats don't sag. No rips or gouges. I would need to check the side mounting points. The chrome strip has been removed as well.The headlights are 93sThanks, Craig. How much shipped to 02143?

Looks like a proper mess right now. Hoses, cables, and assorted black piping everywhere.

Quoting Leon_R: Do yourself a favor and keep it under the hood!1. I have seen way too many electrical problems causes by relocation! 2. You will have to deal with the kill switch, if you ever want to take it to the track. 3. You end up making your car HEAVIER!If you must move it, get a...

Where should the kill switch be mounted? I'm planning to have the car street-driven as well, and reading through NHRA rules outside kill switch does not seem logical for a city car.Moroso box How easy is it to mount this thing in the trunk? Seems like it's plastic, but I'm guessing it's a...