I've bled the system several times per TRE's method as well as bench bleed the MC and slave, then bled again per TRE. I also have a speed bleeder on the slave.I'll give your slave method a shot. Mechanically all my other stuff, which is new, pass the tests.

Quoting turbowop: Don't skip leg day at the gym.Bro, do you even lift?

Quoting tektic: Quote: Today I welded a nut in front of the piece that threads into the MC rod to give me a little more adjustment roomI considered this too. I ended up cutting and welding my pedal for the 4th and 5th time. I think I have it where it needs to be now. If the pin for the...

The MC is not an aftermarket.I haven't checked the actual bore size on the slave.

Red piston

After replacing everything in the entire clutch system, I was still having disengagement issues. The best I could manage was maybe an inch off the floor before I ran out of MC adjustment. Today I welded a nut in front of the piece that threads into the MC rod to give me a little more adjustment...

yeah, 50 of them.

SOLDThese were on my 1g when I bought it. I didn't like the ride quality so I took them off. They've been sitting in my garage for a couple years now. They have a little surface rust, dirt and grime but should clean up nice.250 obo plus shipping and paypal fees.

Everything is the same from base models to the vr4.

I've never seen a prothane mount do that.

Nice find. I'd love to have that work space.

Quoting G: Stant is good, lot's of experience with them on different platforms. The no name duralast's are the ones you have to watch out for.I just pulled a sh*t Stant out of my DSM that was rated for 180* but ran more like 220*. Switched it out with Mitsu part and fixed. The opening is...

Quoting G: I was just going to say go with an oe thermo or a stant. Nothing else.I wouldn't even go Stant.FWIW, The OEM 180* tstat part number is MD997607.

Behind the side skirts, bottom of quarter panels and dog legs.

+1, you can try routing or removing the PCV like this.What color is the smoke?

Great shots!

Well done, Wopper.

Looks like it turned out well. Details on paint color and brand?

That's not Brode's piping for the GVR4.IIRC, Dave offered the piping while awdnot2 here offered the intercooler. The layout of both the piping and intercooler were very similar to the ETS kit. These kits were offered around 2004/2005 I think.

Turns the fan on if it gets too hot I think. I don't remember at what temp that it turns on though. If the wire is grounded, the fan will come on with the ignition.

I have the same gun, not bad for the money.

Did you happen to use the Finex gun?

The only dent I can make out is the one under the right headlight and the rear bumper has a flaw. Outside of that I don't see much else wrong with. The paint looks decent in pics, some color sanding would make it look great.Is this your first time spraying a car?

Quoting Steve001: I wouldn't of entered if I knew I had to make a vid..so hats off to u .+1 That shits a deal breaker for me.Is it weird that you sound exactly like I imagined?

All 6th gen Galants have the same AC system. There is nothing specific about the VR4.

That's terrible KC.

1991 Eclipse GSX 203,XXX miles on bodyRebuilt stock 6 bolt with roughly 5k miles -ARP head studs -Compression is at 165psi on all 4Mods: -MHI 20G (rebuilt 1k miles ago) internally gated with a Holset acutator -Evo3 exhaust manifold -2.5 Buschur ss turbo back exhaust-Old school Buschur...

Great shots

Will do. I'm going this afternoon.

pm sent

If I go, it'll be with a trailer.

hmmm not even 2 hours away...

FTR, I've reused a MLS HG before on a couple different occasions.

Nice!Paul, buy it and then I'll buy from you later on down the road.

Kinda looks like the old AIS one I had. IIRC, AWDnot2 was selling the i/c and Dave Brode offered piping.I may be wrong though, it was close to 10 years ago.

FWIW, I'm not a fan of the craftsman 10mm sockets that neck down to a smaller size towards the socket end. #96 had some stubborn bolts that broke several of those craftsman. ymmv, I don't know if they revised those sockets or not.

Spark plug wires

Favoring the passenger side indicates an issue within the fork/pivot ball, it should be more to the driver side.

Check the movement of the pedal vs. the master cylinder rod movement. You'll have to look up under the dash at master cylinder. Also check the position of the fork at the slave, what does it look like?Are all the trans to engine bolts accounted for and tight?Just to be clear, this clutch...

Start with the hydraulic system first. You stated the pedal assembly is fine, are you positive there is no play at all?

You can't use the logger. The ECU always assumes it's at +5.

+5 is where it should be set.

Doubt the octane booster will help. what heat range are the plugs? 6,7,8?

Had a very similar set up as well and ran mid-late 12s. Try some race gas and see if the knock goes away.

Quote: Hmmm.....I kept adjusting the rod in and never got to the point were the slave would not push in. I suppose I could keep going in with it, but the pedal was only working the last 1/4 of the travel from the floor and I could still push the slave back in!Threading the rod in...

Quoting rdomeck: Still having disengagement issues......I was adjusting the rod at the pedal out of the master and checking to make sure I could still push the slave in and once I hit the point of not being able to push the slave any more I backed it out to where I could.That left me with a...

A new fork and pivot ball and you still shimmed it?