91_427
Well-known member
Several months ago I removed the engine/trans/subframe assembly in order to replace the head. The head needed to be replaced because I broke 3 exhaust manifold studs in the process of trying to replace a cracked exhaust manifold. I was able to extract two of the three studs, but my extractor bit snapped while attempting to remove the last broken stud. In the process of trying to remove the extractor I destroyed any chance of using a helicoil to repair that stud hole. I purchased a recast head from ebay without cams, springs, lifters, or rockers. I transferred all the necessary components from the stock head to the new head. (I only "eyeballed" the CAS, so I know that needs adjustment.) Since I had to replace the head I replaced the water pump and timing belt as well. (I followed the vfaq article on timing belt replacement to the "T" including using the Mitsubishi tools recommended for the job, and making sure the front and rear balance shaft were in the correct orientation. I spun the crank two full revolutions to check my timing marks, and I did this several times with everything lining up properly each time. Therefore, I don't think my timing belt is off even by a tooth.) Anyways, I reassembled the car (I numbered and took pictures of all the connectors that I disconnected, and bagged and labeled hardware as it came off.)
*****TL;DR**** Removed engine/trans/subframe, replaced head and timing belt.
When I tried to start it the first time it cranked very slowly and difficultly. After an hour of diagnosis I traced the problem to the water pump pulley bolts being too long because the captured washers had worn away to nothing. This resulted in the tips of the bolts getting caught on the water pump itself. After installing shorter bolts in the water pump pulley, I was able to get the car running, but there are several things wrong with how it is running:
1)Very rough vibration at lower rpm's (under 2000 rpm, but the lower the rpm the worse the shake)
2)Will not idle on its own
3)During further diagnosis there are times when the engine will not get above 600-700 rpm regardless of how much throttle is applied. The dash boost gauge maxes out during this.
4)Other times during diagnosis the engine will jump in rpm's with no additional throttle input.
5)Car doesn't sound or feel like it is running on all cylinders, but I have no way to keep the car running and check if all cylinders are functioning.
Here's what I've checked so far:
1)Fuel pressure is at 40 psi at low rpm's.
2)All couplers are tight and connected.
3)All connectors are plugged in.
4)All spark plugs are firing.
Things that might be relevant:
1)Coolant temperature wiring was damaged from previous owner. I attempted to repair the wiring (several wires broken entirely). After several wiring combinations I was able to get the instrument panel coolant gauge to display correctly, but when I look at the temperature in ECMlink it says-20 degrees, but this wasn't an issue with how the vehicle performed before changing heads.
2)I'm using ECMlink.
3)EGR and IAC have been removed and blocked off.
4)Boost is turned all the way down with Hallman Pro MBC.
5)Vehicle does have all poly motor mounts and transmission mount.
6)I'm using larger injectors (650's?) because it didn't come with any injectors from previous owner.
7)Yes, I'm fully aware that i need to dial in ignition timing with the CAS, but I can't do that until I have an assistant to help keep the car running. I'm skeptical about setting ignition timing while it cant even idle...
So, does anyone have any suggestions, comments, or insults that might help me out?
*****TL;DR**** Removed engine/trans/subframe, replaced head and timing belt.
When I tried to start it the first time it cranked very slowly and difficultly. After an hour of diagnosis I traced the problem to the water pump pulley bolts being too long because the captured washers had worn away to nothing. This resulted in the tips of the bolts getting caught on the water pump itself. After installing shorter bolts in the water pump pulley, I was able to get the car running, but there are several things wrong with how it is running:
1)Very rough vibration at lower rpm's (under 2000 rpm, but the lower the rpm the worse the shake)
2)Will not idle on its own
3)During further diagnosis there are times when the engine will not get above 600-700 rpm regardless of how much throttle is applied. The dash boost gauge maxes out during this.
4)Other times during diagnosis the engine will jump in rpm's with no additional throttle input.
5)Car doesn't sound or feel like it is running on all cylinders, but I have no way to keep the car running and check if all cylinders are functioning.
Here's what I've checked so far:
1)Fuel pressure is at 40 psi at low rpm's.
2)All couplers are tight and connected.
3)All connectors are plugged in.
4)All spark plugs are firing.
Things that might be relevant:
1)Coolant temperature wiring was damaged from previous owner. I attempted to repair the wiring (several wires broken entirely). After several wiring combinations I was able to get the instrument panel coolant gauge to display correctly, but when I look at the temperature in ECMlink it says-20 degrees, but this wasn't an issue with how the vehicle performed before changing heads.
2)I'm using ECMlink.
3)EGR and IAC have been removed and blocked off.
4)Boost is turned all the way down with Hallman Pro MBC.
5)Vehicle does have all poly motor mounts and transmission mount.
6)I'm using larger injectors (650's?) because it didn't come with any injectors from previous owner.
7)Yes, I'm fully aware that i need to dial in ignition timing with the CAS, but I can't do that until I have an assistant to help keep the car running. I'm skeptical about setting ignition timing while it cant even idle...
So, does anyone have any suggestions, comments, or insults that might help me out?