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Re: fmic install pics


GeeRIDE
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53367 posted 03/25/03 08:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Wow I didn't know rre made gvr4 pipes with a griffin core. haha sweet! How much did everything run you guys all together? and are you happy with your purchase?

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53368 posted 03/25/03 08:48 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/gvr4icpipes.htm

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theymightbegalants
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53369 posted 03/26/03 12:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
The Griffen core w/Spearco top to bottom tanks (core is 6x18x3) cost $390. The pipe kit (mild steel, powdercoated) cost $370, and all the mounting kit (hose, brackets, clamps, bolts, etc.) cost $100.

Yes, I would say that I was satisfied, but not exactly happy. The pipes didn't fit as well as I would have liked, and mounting brackets for the core suck donkey balls. A few welds weren't as smooth as I would have liked on the inside, but that was nothing a few minutes w/a Dremel couldn't fix. I was using a Hawker battery (switched stock locations w/air can) and the more direct UIC pipe from RRE made things difficult, even for that tiny battery. I think I'm going to have to move it to the trunk (what size of wire did you use Mark?).

Would I buy it again? Probably... IMHO you're paying for the convenience of the research all being done for you. It's not quite a bolt on, but it's pretty damn close. You could do it all cheaper yourself, but that takes time. I would certainly not buy their mounting kit again, what a rip. The core is pretty sweet though... much bigger than stock, although there are bigger cores that come with kits. RRE will actually make you whatever core/end tank setup you want, but this was the kit "standard."

Still, at a total of $860, it beats other kits out there. You decide what's best for you. I'm not sure, but I think they all require cutting of the bumper.

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53370 posted 03/26/03 01:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by theymightbegalants:
(what size of wire did you use Mark?).

2awg / 100 amp circuit breaker

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theymightbegalants
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53371 posted 03/26/03 01:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sweet, thanks. Any problems routing wire that size? What hole in the firewall did you use, or did you create your own? I put the 10awg wire for the fuel pump under the door trim, but it didn't look like there was room for anything a whole lot bigger...

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53372 posted 03/26/03 01:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I used the large hole in the firewall on the passenger side behind the inner fender liner. From there I went under the carpet along the side to the trunk. I need to do it again on Friday with 8awg for my alternator wire to my kill switch.

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theymightbegalants
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53373 posted 03/26/03 05:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How did you ground it? I did this to a friend's honduh and used 2awg running up for power, and just grounded it to the chassis in the trunk. This kinda irked me, but he didn't wanna run more wire... I think I'll use 2 or 4awg for power to the front, ground it in the chassis, and use the 10awg I've got run for the fuel pump as an additional ground to the stock ground point in the engine bay. Couldn't hurt.

Where did you get your circuit breaker, and for how much? How necessary do you think it is? The wire we used had a think insulator, plus a protective jacket around that so we didn't think it could realistically be ground through under all that carpet and trim, and even if that did happen wouldn't the stock main fuses just blow?

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howard
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53374 posted 03/26/03 11:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by turbowop:
I used the large hole in the firewall on the passenger side behind the inner fender liner. From there I went under the carpet along the side to the trunk. I need to do it again on Friday with 8awg for my alternator wire to my kill switch.

Are you talking about replacing the main alternator wire with 8awg? If so, do you know where that connection goes? My wire is in really bad shape and in need of replacement, but I looked briefly and can't tell where it goes beyond the fender next to the radiator.

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Johnny Bravo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53375 posted 03/26/03 04:06 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Maybe I'm just overlooking it, but was any trimming of the bumper or bumper support needed to fit the core in there? I found an i/c that I may very well buy (HKS), but I would rather not chop up the bumper or bumper support if I can help it (that may be a bit optimistic though). Anybody know how tall of an I/C will fit w/o needing to cut anything? The one I found is 8.5" tall.

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number3
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53376 posted 03/26/03 04:36 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by theymightbegalants:
How did you ground it? I did this to a friend's honduh and used 2awg running up for power, and just grounded it to the chassis in the trunk. This kinda irked me, but he didn't wanna run more wire... I think I'll use 2 or 4awg for power to the front, ground it in the chassis, and use the 10awg I've got run for the fuel pump as an additional ground to the stock ground point in the engine bay. Couldn't hurt.

Where did you get your circuit breaker, and for how much? How necessary do you think it is? The wire we used had a think insulator, plus a protective jacket around that so we didn't think it could realistically be ground through under all that carpet and trim, and even if that did happen wouldn't the stock main fuses just blow?

Your Honda friend was right in the way he did his. The chassis is one huge ground "wire".

Using a wire longer than a 16" as a ground would be like using a motorcycle filter on a 4" intake pipe to your turbo. (The wire should be at the very least as big as the hot side, obviously)

The key is to make sure that the point on the chassis you pick is a strong ground (not a body panel glued or spot welded to chassis).

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theymightbegalants
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53377 posted 03/26/03 07:22 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I know the chassis is the car ground. Very few things actually run back to the battery ground or even near it. I was not suggesting to use the 10awg wire as THE ground, merely to supplement the ground in the trunk by running up to the stock battery gound wire in the front. As our cars age and the chassis weakens and welds slowly fail or rust, the resistance in the chassis ground increases. I figured two was better than one.

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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 53378 posted 03/26/03 07:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Theymightbegalants: I grounded it with 2awg wire to one of the mounting bolts on the rear shock tower. I sanded the paint down to bare metal for the connection and I've had zero problems with it.

Howard: I'm just gonna disconnect the alt wire at the fuse harness and extend it back to the switch from there. I will run another wire from the starter to where the alt wire was originally connected at the fuse harness to complete the circuit.

Johnny Bravo: Yes the bumper support needed to be cut substantially. Pretty much for any fmic you're gonna have to do some cutting of the support.

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