Quoting kumfasa:
Sounds like a good setup and very similar to my own. The only unknown is the pads.
"It feels like the rotors overheat too quickly"
Im pretty sure rotors cant "overheat" or all those pictures of race cars with glowing rotors would spell big trouble. When you feel brake shudder it can come about a few ways.
1/ Different areas of the rotor coll at different rates. Stopping form 120MPH to 0 and then sitting with the brake pedal on at a stop is a good way to do this.
2/ Pad deposits form on the rotors in some spots and not others. Car sitting for a while with rust on the rotors and not under the pads. then when they get used there are high and low spots.
3/ Rotor runout is out of spec. When the rotors are mounted the hub to rotor mounting surface had crap or rust on it. (or worn wheel bearings)
4/ The rotor develops hard areas of the steel through age and repeated heating cooling, etc... these then wear differently.
Sounds like your changing your whole breaking setup for the outlander stuff so we will never know which individual component was giving you trouble.
My only advice for the new setup is to make sure the hub to rotor area is spotless and once you mount the rotors use some big washers and the wheel nuts on and torque them, without the wheels. then setup a dial indicator against the surface of the rotor ( i mounted mine on the strut tower) and spin it slowly to measure the runout. Shouldn't be more than 1-2 thou. If it is more than that mark the high spot and the low spot and then remove the rotor and rotate it so the high spot is opposite its original location. this should reduce you runout and get it as good as you can. (You will find this very tricky with slotted and cross drilled as the dial indicator tip will get snagged up on the grooves, but im sure you'll figure it out.
This is the best way to maximise your breaking performance and feel, most people just slap the rotors on and it works fine but when Im hitting the brake pedal at speeds over 120mph I want it to be solid and predictable with no shudder or fade.
^ I have nothing further to add. I am riding this guy's coattails.
Any tech will tell you anecdotally, cheap cross-drilled crap cracks. Saw it frequently on regular commuter cars. Personally I have slotted on the front with Hawk HPS pads, but they don't ever see enough heat to see fading. The rear is cheapest econocrap from R0ckaut0. The fade issue is a simple matter of going to Home Depot Racing and drop kicking out the foglights so you can route plastic, flammable, low quality, hose to the rotor hat. Or more simply changing pad compounds.