steering wheel not set straight but wheels set straight pic

i thinking maybe it needs an alignment because steering wheel is off alot and wheels are setting straight what do u guys think it is

 

[SmoothCustomer]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Alignment shouldn't make it that bad I don't think. If you take off the center cap you can straighten out the wheel by pulling the nut off and the wheel, then just putting it on straight, but that may be disguising a serious suspension issue.

 

[turbowop]

With the key out of the ignition turn the wheel until it locks. That should be the centered position. Remount the wheel straight in that locked position and then get an alignment. 503 was quite a bit off as well when I got it and it really screwed with the blinkers auto shut off.

 

[atc250r]

I wouldn't do it the way Mark said. The wheel can lock in one of several positions so that won't give you an accurate location. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, then count EXACTLY how many turns it takes to get all the way to the right. Go back to the left 1/2 the total and you'll be in the center. Then you can center your steering wheel by removing it and putting it back on. Then you need to go and have the alignment/entire front end checked out.

John

 

[turbowop]

Wat? I thought it only locked in the 12 o'clock position? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

It worked for me and now my blinkers shut off when they should. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I guess it's possible I got lucky and it locked in that position otherwise.

 

[Terry Posten]

Turbowop is correct but John's method is better.

I have had to take my column completely apart due to a manufacturing flaw causing the whole turn signal assembly to be slightly off level. I had to drill out the tamper resistant bolts and use a Dremol to re-cut the alignment slot that was in my column to get the assembly level. There was only 1 hole to lock that I saw.

But I would not trust that lock hole to be correct.

Once you do the "1/2 lock" method, any alignment shop will be able to fine tune it for you.

 

awesome advice guys will do later tomorrow and ill let u guys know how it goes

 

[fivestardsm]

I would start first with just pulling your wheel off and re-postioning it to make it as straight as possible.

Its not really all that dificult of a process to fix. No need to drill out anything or the like. This usually happens because someone has changed the rack in the car and didnt line the swivel knuckle back up when they re-assembled it.

My Process:

After I have done a rack repair, I will drive to the parking lot next door and pull the wheel off its tappered spline with a steering wheel puller, and then I drive the car in a straight line slowly. While I am moving, I pull the wheel off, and re-center it. I make sure to put the nut on snugly, and drive some more to make sure that the wheel is as straight as possible.

If the wheel is cocked a little to one side or the other you can try to reposition it to see if you can get it straighter. If not, then the car will need to be taken to an alignment shop to have it adjusted. All they will do is check the alignment and componsate by basically shortining one side, and lengthening the other until the whell is in dead center.

All this will retain your stock lock points also. If you dont want to do the method such as I do (i.e. driving while pulling the wheel off) just take it to the shop and have them do an alignment. They will pull the wheel them selves to make it straight anyway.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[atc250r]

The problem with your method is that because you have changed the position of the steering wheel without taking into account what's going on in the column. It can end up making the signal cancel with just a slight turn of the wheel the one way and then require a big turn of the wheel the other.

John

 

[GVR-4]

IIRC, the piece that cancels the turn signal can be repositioned just like the steering wheel. I think it's a blue plastic piece with two pins on it that cancels the turn signal.

 

[toybreaker]

Take it to a reputable alignment shop and get things checked out.

 

[fivestardsm]

Quoting GVR-4:
IIRC, the piece that cancels the turn signal can be repositioned just like the steering wheel. I think it's a blue plastic piece with two pins on it that cancels the turn signal.



+1 ^^

 

[656of1000]

OK, I do alignments and stuff for a living, so here's what I think. The only time it's really safe to remove and center a steering wheel is if the rack has ever been replaced, and if the steering column shaft does NOT have a fat spline (probably, like someone said, the column wasn't reattached straight). It's not that it's "unsafe" to center a steering wheel any other time, it just means you're hiding a potential big problem. If your outer tie rods were installed way off (one in too far, the other out too far), that could make your rack hit lock too soon turning one way, and cause you to turn too far going the other way, maybe rubbing a tire in the wheel well. Also, if the outer tie rod is too far out, there may be too few threads holding it on, making it a very weak link. That's probably worst-case, and that doesn't seem that likely, but it still means something could have beeen installed or fixed wrong, or maybe the car was in an accident and the rack shifted in its mounts? In other words, there is an underlying problem to cause the steering wheel to be that crooked, and it should be corrected. Any reputable alignment shop can easily check things out for you, and align it properly. An alignment shop should NEVER remove and center a steering wheel- that is the wrong way to do a proper alignment. (I think there are some old old cars or trucks that have very basic steering adjustments, and I think that is the only time a wheel should be removed and centered as part of proper procedure.)