Rebuilt Driveshaft or DSS driveshaft???

[manikbastrd]

Anyone have a recommendation/preference on an OEM rebuilt shaft vs a DSS aluminum one? I am also considering rebuilding mine with new carriers, hardware, U-joint and lobro. I know that some imports are a pain to rebuild the U-joints and some you can't do it at all. I do plan to make 500+ AWHP with the car, but I don't know how well our stock DS holds up under higher power levels. Also, is it worth it/necessary to replace/rebuild the Lobro joint?

For the record, yes I have read This Thread.

Rebuilt OEM Shaft Link

DSS Shaft Link

Parts for rebuild: 2XClick and 2 nuts...not sure on U-joint but found this... Link looks like it will be close to 400$ to rebuild my shaft (assuming new lobro joint also)

JNZ option (no lobro joint) link

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[prove_it]

You can buy the recall kit for our cars for around $40 bucks last I checked. You need three and you can press out the u-joints and use them. It's way cheaper. That's how I did mine, plus you get a new front stub shaft.

Personally for a DD, I say stick with stock, it will take the DD duties better. If your going to drag race and have money burning a hole in your pocket, buy up the aluminum one.

 

[manikbastrd]

I do plan on racing the car a fair amount, but it will be mostly a street machine with some weekend duty at the strip/runs in mexico /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[prove_it]

Kinda depends on how much you think you'll be shocking the shaft. I.E. accel to decel with engine braking. The aluminum will twist more and reduce shock to the rear. Downside is if you basically track style drive the car, the constant back and forth twisting will take its toll after a while. If your really just accelerating hard then clutch in and slow down, then it's not a big deal. Sounds like you'll be mostly drag racing so if you got the cash, go for it. The DSS shaft will help in the quarter as it's lighter. Is it necessary, or a huge difference, no. If you can, opt for the larger front u-joint, I think that's the one that usually breaks.

 

[manikbastrd]

hmmm...well I street drive with a lot of engine braking and decel with compression. So it sounds like I should just stick with a standard rebuilt unit. If I break one bad enough I might switch eventually. 565$ shipped is such a good deal IMHO on a full oem rebuild. Thanks for the advice!

 

[GSTwithPSI]

The DSS driveshaft doesn't really seem worth the money to me. For one, it only replaces the first two pieces of the factory driveshaft. The third shaft remains in place, and so do the factory parts (and failure points). $850 buys a lot of go fast parts. The HP gained to money ratio just isn't there with a DSS driveshaft IMO.

I would stick with what prove_it said, and do a rebuild with factory parts yourself. $565 seems like a lot to me for a factory rebuild /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif.

 

[LIV4PSI]

I only paid $725 from JNZ for mine. But you still have to replace one carrier bearing and U-joint. Paul told me I bought the only one they ever sold. I didn't do it for HP gains as much as I did to help out a weak drivetrain.

I also want to do the 300M t-case upgrade which requires a DSS shaft

 

[BENE38A]

For that power level and the cars duty I think the standard driveshaft would be fine, I really only have what the above people have to say, buy the three yoke kits because you save money and get spares. As for the lobro if the boot is torn then there is the potential for moisture and dirt to get in, chances are if its been torn the joint could be wrecked.
If so check the lobro before you order your parts, then you may want to consider another option because the actual lobro joint is expensive.

 

[prove_it]

Personally, I've never even seen a lobro that was to bad to not use. I've seen wear, but never enough to justify replacement.