Thought I'd share my latest project and maybe get some additional insight from some of the electrical experts here.
I had been having some low voltage issues, especially at higher RPMs. I was talking to one of the guys I work with (I work in a maintenance shop for the county) and he recommended redoing my battery relocation wires, redoing any existing grounds, and adding one or two more grounds. I get state bid pricing on almost anything shop related so I used #1 welding cable for my + cable from the batt to the engine bay and #2 for the grounds. I also ditched the two factory alt power wires in favor of a single #2 cable.
I also ran a ground from the battery to the engine block. I've heard conflicting info on this. Some say it's a good idea and some say it's unnecessary and wasteful. I had almost 20 feet of cable left, so I figured what the hell, might as well run another cable to the engine bay.
Results: Noticeable immediately. The starter sounds brand new. The engine turns over almost immediately. DSMlink reports 14.4 volts during the day with no lights or fans on. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, it stays at 14.4. Redline I see 13.8-14 volts. With a lot of electrical load (both fans on high, high beams, rear defroster, blower on high) it will drop into the mid-low 13s at idle.
Driveability is greatly improved. The engine idles and revs smoother. Everything just feels sooooo much better.
I still need to install a breaker by the battery. That will happen shortly.
If there's anything that could be added or done differently let me know.
Pics:
#1 welding cable
All done
Covered up
New alternator wire
New ground
Fixed old grounds
I had been having some low voltage issues, especially at higher RPMs. I was talking to one of the guys I work with (I work in a maintenance shop for the county) and he recommended redoing my battery relocation wires, redoing any existing grounds, and adding one or two more grounds. I get state bid pricing on almost anything shop related so I used #1 welding cable for my + cable from the batt to the engine bay and #2 for the grounds. I also ditched the two factory alt power wires in favor of a single #2 cable.
I also ran a ground from the battery to the engine block. I've heard conflicting info on this. Some say it's a good idea and some say it's unnecessary and wasteful. I had almost 20 feet of cable left, so I figured what the hell, might as well run another cable to the engine bay.
Results: Noticeable immediately. The starter sounds brand new. The engine turns over almost immediately. DSMlink reports 14.4 volts during the day with no lights or fans on. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, it stays at 14.4. Redline I see 13.8-14 volts. With a lot of electrical load (both fans on high, high beams, rear defroster, blower on high) it will drop into the mid-low 13s at idle.
Driveability is greatly improved. The engine idles and revs smoother. Everything just feels sooooo much better.
I still need to install a breaker by the battery. That will happen shortly.
If there's anything that could be added or done differently let me know.
Pics:
#1 welding cable
All done
Covered up
New alternator wire
New ground
Fixed old grounds