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Oil leak from two places on engine

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
I put my engine in my car after replacing the timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner. Put the timing cover on. Also had the intake manifold off and put it back on with a new gasket. Between the head and manifold.

I have a nylon hose running from the front of the oil pump for the oil gauge.

Now I have oil leaking from one of the bottom bolts on the intake manifold. About second or third in from the timing belt side on the bottom of the manifold.

Other leak I am not sure. The alternator belt was slipping tonight because the pulley has oil on it. The back side of the alternator is wet with oil and the bottom half of the timing cover it covered with oil.

Are there bolts that need sealant on the threads when you reassemble the engine?
 

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
I am going to check the line I have on the filter housing and see if it is leaking and pull the top of the timing cover off to see if the timing belt has any oil on it. I was just wondering if anyone has any idea of bolts needing sealant.
 

ktmrider

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Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Quoting Spyder:
Are there bolts that need sealant on the threads when you reassemble the engine?

Yep, especially the oil pump and exhaust manifold bolts.

I don't think there are oil passages near any of the IM bolts, could be coming from the VC and just appears as tho it's the bolts.
 
Last edited:

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
pulled the top of the timing cover off and the belt is completely dry. Thank God! However, I noticed there was enough slack that the belt going over the intake cam down to the oil pump was loose enough I could slide it back and forth on the pulley. I carefully started the engine and let it run watching the belt, it ran fine and didn't move. Let the engine warm up and shut it off. Tension is back the way it was when I installed it.

What the hell is up with that?
 

5OF2k

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Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
The tbelt tension thing sound like your tensioner could be taking a crap on you.... Did you replace it when 7you did your tbelt? If it's the old one, did you push the plunger back in using a vice turning VERY SLOWLY?

If you re-used the old tensioner, and compressed it too quickly, you very well could've blown the seals out internally and killed the tensioner.

Another possibility is the tensioner guide bearing is mis-adjusted. Do a few Google/Vfaq searches on propper Tbelt tensioner adjustment, and you'll see what I mean. Most importantly, DO NOT drive the car until you fix that. Bent valves and/or a new engine will be right around the corner, otherwise...

-Jake
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting Spyder:
pulled the top of the timing cover off and the belt is completely dry. Thank God! However, I noticed there was enough slack that the belt going over the intake cam down to the oil pump was loose enough I could slide it back and forth on the pulley. I carefully started the engine and let it run watching the belt, it ran fine and didn't move. Let the engine warm up and shut it off. Tension is back the way it was when I installed it.

What the hell is up with that?



Adam,

Depending on where the intake cam is resting, there *may* be some slack on the belt.

This happens when the cams line up just wrong when you shut the motor off.

If a rocker arm is on the rising side of the cam lobe when the engine comes to a stop, the valve spring load will be trying to turn the cam backwards to get off the ramp.

This *may* push the tensioner piston back into the body, creating some slack.


Like Jake said, an issue with the tensioner can cost you a head/motor, so if you;re still uncomfortable about things, pull the cover and inspect the tenioner piston protrusion. In a perfect world, you could slide the pin back thru the tensioner body and piston, but my experience has been that the belt strecthes some during service, so the pin will be out a bit from where it was when you set the belt tension during the t-belt swap.

It's also a good thing to inspect the tensioner body seal at the same time. If it's wet, replace the tensioner.
 

Spyder

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Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Yeah I am completely aware of the interference issue with the valves.

I used a brand new oem tensioner and followed the manual to spec on installation. I will go out this evening and pull the cover off again and see how the tension is, run it again and check it again.

Thanks
 

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Checked the t belt again, good and tight as it should be. I will drive it later a little bit and see how it does.
 
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