JDM meet USDM

[Terry Posten]

I am sure there was some really simple adapter plug or harness I could have got to make my new clear JDM corners work with 425/1000 but I still would have needed to buy new bulbs and some sort of adapter so I got creative.

No need to cut wiring or buy bulbs.




I cut the JDM socket center out and made the new hole snug so the USDM socket slid right in. I super glued the two sockets together and once the glue is dried, will fill with RTV.

Super simple and no cost.

 

[maroonmetallic]

Good idea, however I do feel that your brightness will be inferior as compared to others on the board. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also, my BNIB ambers came shipped w/ bulbs already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
But...maybe that's the vendor's way of saying "thanks for telling us about this lamp selling opportunity". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Terry Posten]

The brightness was one of my concerns. That is why I made the USDM bulb go as far into the housing as possible. The JDM bulb is a full sized "brake light /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif" style and the little USDM bulb would not have protruded far enough into the housing.

As far as intensity, no biggie. And besides, those larger bulbs pull more power and it could over heat the stock wiring.

 

[turbowop]

That's why I used a dual filament bulb in mine. The lower watt filament is used as the running light and doesn't pull enough amps to melt things. The higher wattage filament is used as the blinker. I got mine for cheap at the junkyard off some Toyota. I did have to solder on some new connectors though. But it all looks OEM.

 

[turbofonz]

I used the reverse light sockets from a 1g. I had to cut a tab off, and I depinned the stock connectors and hooked up the DSM ones so there was NO cutting of the stock wiring. Works great!