is this still a boost leak?

[Brunoboy]

ok, I have changed all my Throttle body seals and biss oring, and gaskets, I have also changed BOV and BOV gasket. Mods are
HKS BOV
EVO VIII FMIC and Pipe kit
MHI Big 16g
DSM GT High Flow Manifold
HKS EVC IV
2g Hard Intake pipe
2g MAF
Evo VIII Injectors
Evo IX Fuel Pump
Fuel Lab FPR
MLS HG
solid Timing belt tensioner.
ARP Head Studs
BSE
2g o2 housing
2.5-3' straight pipe.
KeyDiver chip
SAFC.
Pocketlogger.

I have been getting plenty of knock on the knock gauge. but it still pulls real hard. I always thought I was running rich, and I have changed the plugs twice already. and wires. Yesterday I notice that my boost gauge will spike at 20-25 psi and then drop down all the way to 10 ish when knock hits. is this normal? I have no idea whats going on. I cannot figure out how to move my logs to the computer and upload them here. My Idle still fluctuates so i am thinking my isc is bad. vacuum at idle is 12-14 in HG still, and Timing is on point. Thanks
-Shane

 

[grocery_getter]

Vaccumm with stock cams should be at 18inHg. If you are seeing 12-14inHg, and you have a stock cams then your t-belt had jumped.

Do you still have the stock wastegate actuator solenoid hooked up in the system? ECU shuts off the solenoid to stop the w/g vacumm signal from bleeding out when it senses knock. It will make you run w/g spring rate boost, which is around 10psi.

And put the stock hydraulic timing belt tensioner back on.

 

[Hertz]

And the boost leak test you just performed says....

 

[grocery_getter]

And stop doing pulls when you have knock!

 

[grocery_getter]

Quote:
If you are seeing 12-14inHg, and you have a stock cams *and you are sure that you do not have a boost or vacuum leak* then your t-belt had jumped.




Had to add something to the comment above.

 

[Brunoboy]

It didnt show any leaks, and I did timing three times, its a new head, with crower springs and retainers, jdm motor........I have no FPR Solenoid hooked up.
-Shane

 

Quote:
Timing is on point


Does this mean that you have checked the base timing *with a timing light*, as per the VFAQ, and it is at 5* BTDC?

 

[Brunoboy]

yes i have, and it is correct.....

 

[grocery_getter]

How about mechanical cam timing then? With the notch on the crank pulley at the T or zero degree, have you make sure (by use of a straight line device, not just by eyeballing) than the inside notches on each of the cam gears are in line with an imaginary straight line pulled between the center of the cam gears center bolt?

 

[Brunoboy]

are you talking about the arrow?

 

[grocery_getter]

What arrow?

 

[Brunoboy]

maybe im tripping, please explain the process on cam timing again? Thanks (maybe im off a tooth or something? 0_o *shrugs*)
-Shane

 

[a2vr4]

Read. Learn. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
~Brian A. Moreno

 

[Brunoboy]

I've done all that, Thanks though, Im talking about Timing by lining up cam gears....

 

[beaner]

Quoting grocery_getter:
Vaccumm with stock cams should be at 18inHg.


I'd say minimum. Mine's in the 20s'.

 

[Brunoboy]

my old eclipse gsx ran 18-22 in hg, thats why i know something is wrong...