electircal issue?

[Kenny_Kline]

Today I wanted to crank the car today to get the oil flowing through out the motor. I couldnt happen to notice a few issues. Here is what I did. ECU unplugged, fuel pump disconnected at harness, and sprak disconnected at transistor pack. I turn the key on and my oil pressure gauge slowly starts to go up and pegs out at 100psi. As I crank, it doesnt change. I shut the key off and it stay up at 100psi. As soon as I disconnect the battery, it goes all the way back down. So I wonder if it had anything to do with my ECU being unplugged so I plugged my ECU back in and it does the same thing. But now I find out a different issue... with ECU plugged in, turn key off, keys out of ignition, all the lights stay on on the dash. Lights as in brake, ABS, check engine light, etc. They will stay on until either the battery dies or I disconnect power. Once I disconnect power at the battery and reconnect, the lights dont come back on until I turn the key on. Why wont they shut off? Also, both fans come on immediatley when I turn the key into the on position. RPM gauge doesnt move when cranking but I am assuming thats because transistor pack is unplugged? I thought it got its signal from the CAS. Also note the boost gauge. Key on, boost gauge goes up.

I started thinking maybe I put in the ECM chip backwards? I check and it is the right way. I am starting to wonder bad ground, short in harness, bad ecu? I dont know.

Anyone ever encounter an issue like this?

Video of oil pressure gauge spiking. I dont have a full video of issue as I was running out of memory on the camera. I will get a full video of issues if need be.

 

[Kenny_Kline]

So here is another quick video I made. This is with the fuel pump disconnected, transistor pack plugged in, ecu plugged in, oil pressure switch wire unplugged. As you can see oil pressure stays at 0 now but still all dash lights stay on after key is out. I am sure its a short in the loop but where? The dash lights are dim but when you trigger each light be either key on, ebrake, they light up full power.

Does anyone have any idea or give me a place to start? Please dont say ignition switch because that works fine. ECU is fine, rebuilt by Terry 800 times /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I am think a shorted ground or bad ground

Video:

 

[Kenny_Kline]

SO I turned key on, shut car off, all lights stayed on. I then started pulling fuses. I pulled every fuse and relay in both fuse boxes under the hood and lights didnt go off. The radiator fan harness looks to be stock but I unplugged it anyways just to see if it shut off the lights. I have the fuel pump harness unplugged in the hatch area and yes it does look to have been rewired. I am going to inspect all that wiring to figure out if that is the issue. According to schematics, part of the cluster (tach) grounds out in the rear hatch area under the latch. Another point grounds somewhere else but the schematics do not specify.

I moved onto unplugging the fuses at positive terminal post. I unplugged the 20A fuse and lights clicked off. I dont think that is the issue as that probably cut the power to the short but it helps me narrow it down where the short could be connected to. The other 2 fuses (30A) keep the lights on on the dash. I am going to plug in the 20A fuse, cycle key to keep lights on and move to the fuse box under the dash and start pulling one by one and see what one shuts off the lights. I will be back with my results.

-K

 

[Kenny_Kline]

Ok so here is an update. I pulled all fuses under dash. The only fuse that shuts off lights on dash in the cluster fuse (10A) and when I plug it back in, lights come back on on the dash. So I think that rules out an actual cluster issue and more towards a relay. Battery disconnect resets it all and lights dont come on but pulling the actual fuse for cluster wont reset? WTF?

Here are some pics of all these fuses pulled so we are on the same page. Time to start hunting down relays and pulling them one by one to find out which one is doing it. This is really a mess. (in the pics, I left gauge cluster fuse plugged in to keep lights on.

Still on even with all fuses pulled except the actual cluster fuse:

 

[Kenny_Kline]

Ok I found out the 20A fuse is for the MPI. When I unplug that fuse, dash lights go off.

That goes to a relay that distributes here:

1 Empty
2 (BLACK/GREEN) Fuel Pump Drive Signal. (Merges with C66 #13 and ?plug1#6)
3 (BLACK/WHITE) Ignition Transistor power supply (Merges with C65 #62 (Purge Control Solenoid Valve),
B15 #5 (Ignition Transistor Power), B14 #3 (Ignition Coil Pack Power), and C58 #5)

4 (RED) Power [merges with #5] (both merge with C64 #107, C64#102)
5 (RED) Power [merges with #4]
6 (BLACK) Ground (Merges with lots of other grounds)
7 (WHITE/RED) Fuel Pump Control (Goes to C65 #56)
8 (BLACK/GREEN) Control Relay (Signal from ECU) (Merges with C65 #66 and C65 #63)
9 (BLACK/YELLOW) Inhibitor Switch (Goes to B25 #9)
10 (BLACK/RED) Constant Power (Goes to MPI Fuse on Positive Battery Terminal)

Time to do some investigatiing. I am going to start at this relay and test each wire and find what wire is drawing power with key off.