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Doing carrier bearing install right now...have questions

Luke

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Jul 16, 2002
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752
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San Jose, CA
I just rebuilt my driveshaft.. I am going to put it back in the car tomorrow..

For the big conan nuts, get one of those cordless impact gun from harbor freight.
Zap-zap, and they're off. Very very easy..

Hope this fixes my decel wub-wub.. If not, I'm going to start looking into rebuilding the t-case.
 

CP

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West Simsbury, CT
I've still got'em. Same deal with two different rear diffs. I'm not ready to rip apart the t-case, but that's the next possible culprit.
 

Luke

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San Jose, CA
Quote:
I just rebuilt my driveshaft.. I am going to put it back in the car tomorrow..

For the big conan nuts, get one of those cordless impact gun from harbor freight.
Zap-zap, and they're off. Very very easy..

Hope this fixes my decel wub-wub.. If not, I'm going to start looking into rebuilding the t-case.



Just an update...

With the rebuilt driveshaft, I'd say 95% of the rumble/wub-wubs are gone! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I believe my old U-joints were pretty worn because they didn't swivel smoothly ( one of the U-joint inspection method described in the manual )
The rubber in the old carrier bearings did not seem to be excessively worn, but I replaced them anyway.
 
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ohmegamike

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May 23, 2005
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95
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Solon, IA
What's the part number for the yoke kits you used? What exactly is included in the kit? And since I'm on a roll with questions, how much $$??? I've got a new pair of bearing carriers, but I still need to order the other necessary parts to do the job. Thanks! -Mike-
 

CP

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Talk to Eric at JNZ. Tell him you want to replace your u-joints and heard from me that the "rebuild" kits are cheaper.
 

TWEAKD4

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Mar 24, 2002
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605
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Fort Wayne, IN
I wish my car was from California instead of the rust belt. Getting the circlips free is quite the pain. Rust=major frustration/time.
 

CP

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Half of mine snapped in half using the removal method I used, but fortunately none were rusted in there.
 

CP

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Update:

The last thing to replace in trying to track down my gear whine was the transfer case. I installed a fancy aluminum case used unit tonight, put some lightweight shockproof in it, and my racecar gear whine is GONE at highway speeds! So...bad transfer case, not rear diff. Guess I'm lucky it didn't lock up on me.
 

Luke

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Hi CP: Did your whine only happen during deceleration ?
 

CP

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No, I've still got that. It's more of a grumble that resonates upon deceleration. That has remained through 2 rear diffs, 2 trannies, a driveshaft swap, and now t-case swap. I just consider it "normal" now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

My whine was speed sensitive, getting more pronounced the faster the car was traveling.

-Cy
 
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kartorium

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Jan 14, 2002
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ellensburg,wa
I've got whine in first and second sometimes, its not super loud. I do have the grumble you are speaking of CY, I think mine is coming from either the Tcase, Dshaft, or rear diff. Its hard to tell though, and I'm thinking about just driving it till it breaks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Is your grumble more noticeable in 1-3 gears? Eventually here I'll swap all the crap from Tcase back and figure it out, so if you solve it, be sure to post about it.
 

CP

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The whine is back and it's worse than ever. I'm 99% sure it's the rear diff. My spare is at JNZ waiting for bearings, and I hope to have it back and installed next week sometime.
 

CP

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Bad rear carrier bearing. It's been vibrating like a mofo for a few weeks (no banging) and made some unhealthy grinding noises on decel. I split the driveshaft at the lobro joint so I wouldn't have to mess with the t-case. The impact gun made easy work of the "mega-wicked pisser Conan nut"









Be sure to MARK THE DRIVESHAFT in a number of different places before you pull it apart, and check that you're putting the new carrier bearing on correctly. The car mounts are offset, so it's possible to put the CB on backwards.
 
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Can someone pm me about the yolk recall and all, I just heard something about it today and am wondering what needs to be done.Thanks
 

CP

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Second attempt at posting my update...

I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire driveshaft again. I'm done with all the u-joints and carrier bearings. It was a pretty easy now that I've done it a few times. All new parts ready to go:





The problem is getting this f-ing lobro joint off of the center section of the driveshaft. There's a circlip holding it on that I have removed. But I can't seem to get the lobro to slide off of the splined driveshaft. I tried a gear puller, but it doesn't seem to be working. Any ideas?





 

CP

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I can still drive the car (FWD) without the driveshaft installed, right? Though I may have some clutch issues if water gets in down by the output shaft of the tranny that goes into the t-case...
 

toybreaker

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Apr 30, 2006
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Damn, that's crazy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Cy, I wouldn't drive the car without the rear driveline installed. The center diff won't like it, and you could damage the viscous coupler.

I don't know why that won't come apart. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I've never pulled the c.v., but it seems like it should slide right off, after the c-clip is removed.

Are there burrs on the splines?

Are the splines twisted or deformed?

edit Just read the factory service manual, there's nothing else there, just that cir-clip, accesible from the outside.

They show the joint being dissassembled on the driveshaft stub.
after scribing alignment marks on the outer race, cage, and inner hub. (They also want the balls to go back in the same location from whence they were removed)

In the end, though, they show basically the same basic puller set-up that you're using, just pulling on the center hub.

Pulling against the outer hub may be hazardous to the cage, and may also put some dents in the races.

Are you replacing the c.v.?

If you have another c.v., it may be time to get more vandalistic. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

An airhammer from the backside (against the inner race) would probably knock that c.v. into next week. (be carefull to not fork up the splines)

Or maybe a slidehammer (on an axle remover plate) with a few bolts threaded thru the outer cage may do the job. (Don't use the hardware from the shaft, it'll probably stretch/boogerfy the bolts.

I vaguely remember fighting something similiar to this on another vehicle, and the cause was a gnarly burr caused when the driveshaft section hit the edge of the plate that secures the c.v. (during an accident.) Copiuous filing achieved the clearance required to remove the hub.

Does the hub move at all on the driveshaft, either direction, or twisty-like?

Good Luck!...

And, thanks for tackling this project. I think a lot of us are learning from your experiences.
 
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CP

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Yeah, I'm replacing the entire joint inside the case, including the aluminum hat with the rubber boot. What section of the FSM is this process described in? I'll go reference the manual.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
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Apr 30, 2006
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Quoting Cy:
What section of the FSM is this process described in? I'll go reference the manual.



The propellor shaft section... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif ...(in my laser/talon fsm.)

I need to get a galant specific fsm /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif , but the procedure should be the same.
 

Armitage

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Oct 16, 2003
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Location
Herndon, VA
Did you get it off? This picture concerns me:

img.php


I'm pretty sure you're supposed to separate and remove the lobro joint from the companion flange first, not use the gear puller on both pieces at the same time. I could be wrong though.
 
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