DIAGNOSE MY CAR!!- UPDATE: ITS ALIVE!!!!!

[mean_green]

Thanks a ton Mike, exact info I was looking for. Much appreciative! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

Now I just need to know if I can rob the ISC off my 1g auto gs-t parts car?? Just as a cheap fix so I can get this car on the road!!

-Alan

 

No problem, wish I could've helped more but I too am learning as I go on most of this stuff.

 

Yes you can use the isc from the 1g auto. I would check the isc per the previous posted link before you use it. Don't want to burn up another driver from a bad coil in the isc.

 

[mean_green]

^ Thanks Chris, Jeff (keydiver) already informed me that a lot of the ISC are compatible between these cars. But I will test them both and see whats going on.

 

[stevep]

Quoting mean_green:
After Steve rebuilt my ECU he said something could be wrong with my ISC since all the drivers in the ECU were messed up.

What can I do to test this? Is the voltmeter method the only way? and is there a wright up anywhere on how to do that exactly, I think I know how but want to be sure. If I do find its not up to the correct ohms whats all involved in replacing it. Can I jack anything off a 1g auto turbo parts car to make it work?

Any help is much appreciated, I will keep searching as well.
-Alan



Sorry I should have pointed you to dsmisc.com and Stealth316 ISC page.

You don't want to see any of the ISC coils measure below 15 - 20 ohms or so.

The current to step the ISC runs through these chips and they aren't designed to take more than 2A for a couple of milliseconds.

I wasn't able to do anything about the burned fiberglass around IC105 from the driver blowing in the past but I was able to repair all the electrical damage it caused and replace the other ISC driver(IC107) that didn't look fried but had one channel dead. Most of your ECU's problems stemmed from the unresolved damage the driver did when it burned up. The capacitor leakage problems were minor other than the damage caused by the person who changed them drilling holes in the board and burning the solder pads.

Hopefully the postman calls you this morning to come pick it up.

 

[mean_green]

UPDATE:

Nothings changed after SteveP fixed my ECU.

Car wont crank, just hear a sort of hiss/squeal from underhood, its quiet, almost like I have massive fuel injectors and nothing at all. No crank no half attempt no nothing.

Some reason no powers getting to the starter obviously, and since I havent changed anything I went searching for a blown fuse. Find everything in check besides one of the ABS computer fuses is all messed up. But I doubt that would cause my car to not even turn over.

Can someone please tell me how I should go about searching for whats wrong with this car. Ive checked and doubled checked the work I did and my friend has gone threw it too and didnt see anything of concern.

I dont know if its a grouding issue or what but all the grounds I touched seem to have great contact against the firewall. Theres alot of harnesses unattached sine I delete the ABS and cruise but I believe those are all well and dandy too. Checked out the ISC and it hit 36-38 across the board.

Im running out of ideas and pulling my hair out. Its great to see the car on the ground, now I want to drive it.

 

[toybreaker]

Quote:
Theres alot of harnesses unattached sine I delete the ABS and cruise but I believe those are all well and dandy too.



There's a rectangular plug in the vicinity of the battery, as originally installed.

It controls the power out to the starter solenoid, as well as power to the inside of the car.

please make sure that's plugged in before you go any further. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[stevep]

Quoting mean_green:
UPDATE:

Nothings changed after SteveP fixed my ECU.



Does the CEL turn on for five seconds when you turn the ignition on?

Do you have a voltmeter?

 

[mean_green]

Yes CEL turns on the goes off like normal, stock boost gauge reads half-way.

I do have a mulitimeter and hopefully Toybreaker can help me sort this out over the phone tonight.

-Alan

 

[toybreaker]

On the passenger side unibody section in front of the strut are a few mission critical harness connectors. They are somewhat hidden by the airflow meter and other stuff, so they're hard to see.

Circled in red, the rectangular connector is the power distribution connector for the car.

Circled in yellow, the triangular connector is the connection down to the starter solenoid.



If they are both plugged in, and the car won't crank, (as in rotate when you have the key in the start position) unplug the starter harness and check for power at the car side of the harness while the key is in the start postion. (you're checking the black with yellow stripe wire)



If there's nobody home on the car side of the starter solenoid harness, unplug the clutch down switch and try again. The switches go bad, and the little yellow plastic button that depresses it also gets broken. This will prevent the starter from operating. Unplugging the switch opens the interlock circuit, and will allow the starter to operate any time the key is in the start position.

 

[toybreaker]

So, there was 12volts present on the car side of the starter solenoid harness with the key in the start postion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



This leaves a few short sections of wire, and the starter itself as the problem.

The large black with red stripe is the positive wire. It leads from the battery positive down to the large terminal on the back of the starter.

The large black with yellow wire is the ground. It leads from the battery negative terminal down to the case of the tranny, under a mounting bolt.

The little black/yellow wire from the triangular connector leads down to a terminal on the starter solenoid.

 

[toybreaker]

Bonus picture of the injector resistor pack, and wiring in that vicinity.

I think he figured out the original problem on his own. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

It may have been temporarily misplaced during the emissions elimination, leading to no power to the injectors.

 

[mean_green]

Got it all back together with a new starter in from my 1g parts car and it cranks again!!

Battery was pretty low so I left the charger on it over night on the slow charge setting. So hopefully my baby will fire up in the morning and I'll be driving her to work.

I have to give a big Thank You to John (Toybreaker) for helping my newbie ass troubleshoot over the phone. MUCH APPRECIATED. If your ever in my kneck of the woods a nice steak dinner and enough shots to kill a horse are in store for you my friend.

-Alan

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting mean_green:
-Another night defeated by the G monster. I Have been in the process of making my Galant a little more my own since I bought it a year ago.
The tasks: replace cracked radiator with small civic PWR rad, redo exhaust CMP style threw GW, 5-lug conversion w/out ABS, Cruise control delete. Then little clean up things like new turbo hardware, emissions-delete stuff, tidying a few things up, you get the picture.

Last two weeks I've gone into the shop every couple of days where my galant is expecting to drive it out by the end of the day, and each time it defeats me with more work then I realized or new problems that need taking care off.

Finally tonight I get to the point where I can give it a little try to start and make sure everything has gone together fine and as my luck would have it, it wont start!!


Yep, TB is the man! Can't begin to believe how lucky we are to have him on the board. Glad you got things sorted.
On another note, you found out the hard way about making mods/changes/upgrades to a non-running car. I know you had good intentions but waiting until the car was running ( properly ) first woulda saved tons of headaches and agravation.
Hopefully others will learn from your project.

 

[mean_green]

^ I wasnt none running I just messed a bunch of things up being noobie to Mitsu's and especially my G. Plus it was several months in the making so I couldnt remember what I did or how I did it, stuff like that. I know not a smart move but when you wreck a crotch rocket in the triple digits it takes a little time to be back wrenching on cars /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Back to the main focus, cars still not turning over. Initally it sounds really promising and sounds like its going to fire up but then kind of dies and evens out while cranking for the few seconds...

Going back Thursday to try and narrow my problem down some more, probably with my trusty cell phone calling Toybreaker every few minutes.

My question is besides not getting fuel and spark (which Im going to check into more THRS) could a vacuum leak cause this? I just say this because I did the typical ol' Emissions delete and I plugged all the openings on the intake mani by the throttle body but is there more to it. Maybe some other spots that then need re-routing or plugging?

I ask this because Im just making sure the work I did was correctly done and Im not off to look for a problem I most likely caused one way or the other.

TIA
-Alan

 

[mean_green]

Went to the G-monster for a few minutes tonight. Pulled the plugs and cranked on it. Have great spark to each one of them so I assume that leaves me with the problem that Im not getting fuel somewhere along the way?

Strange thing is the plugs smelled like gas, I dont know if thats just cuz they smell that way from miles and miles on them or I am getting fuel and still not running for some reason...

What are some things I can do to check for fuel?

Can someone tell me what fuses or relays, something along those lines I can check into because I have a feeling its that type of problem. Could cranking on it without the resistor pack for the fuel injectors short something out somewhere and thats where my problem is? Because I did that too... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

How do you use the fuel pump connector by the slave cylinder to check that? Can I use my mulit-meter to do that?

Sorry for the noob questions but a guys got to learn,
-Alan

 

[rgeier11]

I haven't read the entire thread, but you need to ensure your compression is good. It sounds like you have spark, so that's fine. Fuel should be easy to check once you pull a plug and look at it.

Are you sure your ECU is set up for your injectors and that your ECU and coolant sensor are in good working order?

 

[mean_green]

Dove into the mess a little again today:

The injector harnesses all show constant power when using a noid light. Ive tried this one at a time and with them all off at once. Plugged a spare CAS and spun it and still no pulsing light...

I tried to measure the ohms resistnce with no power with my mulitmeter and and it says zero except when I move it a little then it jumps around so I dont know if I have a piece of crap mulitmeter or what. Does the same thing when I try it on the ECU side using the ground I use for the whole ECU.

Kind of stuck now and dont know where to go from here/ to try next. Or what any of that mulitmeter info means besides maybe not harbor freight for my mulitmeter needs.

Any helps greatly appreciated,
-Alan

 

[toybreaker]

Allan, I tried calling you back, but the phone batteries dead. I'll call you later when I find teh phone charger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

It sounds like power is supplied from the key out to teh injectors just fine.

It also sounds like there's something funky on the ground side of the circuit.

The ecu grounds the injectors to fire them so if they're on 24/7, you gots troubles.

You need to unplug the ecu, and then you can check for a short to ground in the harenss that leads back to the ecu.

Your cheesmo meter's probe probably won't fit down in the connectr well enough to read anything, so Just stick a small paperclip into the injector connector and touch the red probe to that.

Touch the black probe to any good engine ground.

With the ecu unplugged, there should be zero continuity...

You can also do it from the ecu end, with the ecu unplugged and injectors unpllugged.

Coming in from behind the ecu connector (wire side) take the red lead and go onto the wire the wire that leads out to the injector, and put the back probe to ground. There should be zero continutity.

Also, be absolutely sure that all the original ecu grounds on the a pillar are in tip top shape, and the bolt holding them down is snug.

 

[mean_green]

Tried a few things last night to the G monster and the combination of them must have worked.

The previous problem I found with the injectors was false due to a crap noid light

I re-did the wiring for the coolant sensors, replaced ths ISC off a donor ecipse, and plugged these four lines under the intake manifold you can see from the passenger side of the engine...

Whether it was the combination or the coolant sensors I dont care, Drove her around for 15-20 mins last night and she has a few issues but I think I can get her sorted out next time I have a day off.

Thanks everyone for all the help especially John dealing with my n00bieness over the phone. MUCH APPRECIATED

-Alan