Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
This morning I went for a "test drive" in the Talon but my clutch wont release to put it in gear. I shut carr off, put it in 1st, start up and the clutch starts jumping. The clutch isnt releasing. I know it has something to do with my hydraulic setup because the pedal doesnt feel anything like what it used to feel like in my galant. Something is wrong.
I put in a brand new master cylinder, SS clutch line, 2G slave cylinder, restrictor removed, extended rod, clutch master rod is threaded all the way out to the point the threads are just turned in a few turns, I filled up with DOT4 fluid and bled the system free of all air. Cant figure it out. When I press the clutch, the clutch fork end doesnt go over as far as I have normally seen. Its almost like air is still in the line.
When I crack the bleeder, it doesnt seem like a whole lot of presuure building up. The pedal feels like its doing nothing for the first 1/4 of travel and the rest of the way it starts to grab and build pressure. As soon as I crack the bleeder to bleed in the slightest bit, the pedal goes to floor and wont come back up on its own. This usually happens on the first stages of bleeding, not the last.
I did not shim the pivot ball because this is the same setup I had in my galant and shimming the pivot ball was not needed. Only thing I changed was a new master, new line and new slave. The only adjustment done to the master is at the rod where it attaches to clutch pedal linkage. The rod is threaded all the way out to the furthest point. Threading it in would end up shortening travel, wouldnt it?
Its an ACT 2600 clutch, 6 puck sprung disc, ACT flywheel stepped to ACT specs (.612")
I also cracked the bleeder and took off the res cap and hand pumped (vacuum source) at the bleeder sucking the fluid out of the system to be sure all air is out and then bled the system normally with another guy. I am leaning towards a defective master. Some guys said put the 1G slave back in because the 2g doesnt throw as far as a 1G. I think its a pressure issue though. Not building up enough pressure from the get when pressing in clutch
Here are some pics of setup, clutch out, clutch in.
I put in a brand new master cylinder, SS clutch line, 2G slave cylinder, restrictor removed, extended rod, clutch master rod is threaded all the way out to the point the threads are just turned in a few turns, I filled up with DOT4 fluid and bled the system free of all air. Cant figure it out. When I press the clutch, the clutch fork end doesnt go over as far as I have normally seen. Its almost like air is still in the line.
When I crack the bleeder, it doesnt seem like a whole lot of presuure building up. The pedal feels like its doing nothing for the first 1/4 of travel and the rest of the way it starts to grab and build pressure. As soon as I crack the bleeder to bleed in the slightest bit, the pedal goes to floor and wont come back up on its own. This usually happens on the first stages of bleeding, not the last.
I did not shim the pivot ball because this is the same setup I had in my galant and shimming the pivot ball was not needed. Only thing I changed was a new master, new line and new slave. The only adjustment done to the master is at the rod where it attaches to clutch pedal linkage. The rod is threaded all the way out to the furthest point. Threading it in would end up shortening travel, wouldnt it?
Its an ACT 2600 clutch, 6 puck sprung disc, ACT flywheel stepped to ACT specs (.612")
I also cracked the bleeder and took off the res cap and hand pumped (vacuum source) at the bleeder sucking the fluid out of the system to be sure all air is out and then bled the system normally with another guy. I am leaning towards a defective master. Some guys said put the 1G slave back in because the 2g doesnt throw as far as a 1G. I think its a pressure issue though. Not building up enough pressure from the get when pressing in clutch
Here are some pics of setup, clutch out, clutch in.